Advice: stamping or etching?

D

Dave Hub

Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
57
Hello all,

I have make a dozen or so knives now, and I would like to put a mark on them. I have read a bunch of threads on the topic and I am no closer to a decision. What's the best way for a beginner to apply a mark, stamping or etching? Why?

Thanks!
 
I was in the same dilemma being a beginner.. I tried doing some stamps at first and didn't have the greatest success. I couldn't get my Stamps to come out very clean and the stamps I already had were bigger than I wanted.
I ended up buying some stencils from IMG, which it costs a little more initially to get your stencil made but is cheaper to buy them after that. You can also get stencils of steel types added for pretty cheap. I use a battery charger, salt water, and a Q tip to do the etch and I've been happy with the first few I've done. Im sure an etching machine would be better, but for the cost I'm pretty happy with them so far. You can also make your stencil more personalized.
Brady
 
Another vote for etching. Stamping is not really an option for a beginner that has few tools. For my own part, I got stencils from one of the board members, and bought a Personalizer Plus etching machine and the proper etching fluids. I tried the salt water route, but I get better results with the etching fluids.
 
I went the other way. Stamping just seemed so much easier to me. I wanted to focus on my knifemaking and didn't really want to mess with all the etching equipment. I got my stamp from Henry A. Evers and also got their holder (Which is a bit pricey). I started by using a deadblow hammer and had really good results, but I have messed a few up. I recently got a 6 ton A frame press from HF for about 60 bucks and use it to press my stamp into the blade. I get a better deeper stamp and don't have to worry about screwing it up with a poor hammer strike. Love it.
 
I've done a few thousand throwing knives with both stamping and etching.

Stamping must be done before heat-treat (with very few exceptions), so you will be grinding over the stamp. This adds complication, requires some forethought, and carries a risk of failure. Etching can be done at any point.

Once you get your stamping process dialed in, the results are very consistent and clean with no surface blemishing. Etching, on the other hand, can be inconsistent with occasional surface discoloration or stains.

The stamp itself is very expensive. This means that logo changes are cost-prohibitive. Etching stencils are comparatively cheap and it is fairly painless to change your art.

The required tonnage of your stamp press is only an estimation until you have your stamp. Because the stamp is expensive and non-returnable, you may find yourself building or buying a press to accommodate your stamp. The cost of the press can far exceed the cost of etching supplies.
 
i have done both, each requires skill. one is not easier than the other. i settled on stamping, just because thats how they did it in the old days. i use a stamp made by henry evers everstamp , they cost $185. i use the stamp holder $140. one whack with a hammer. it is more expensive on startup than etching, but should last forever.
 
I made a very sophisticated stamp and 50 ton press system that I used for years.
Very effective and professional.
I got my etching equipment about four years ago and haven't used the stamp and press once since then.
 
I bought a stamp and after two failed stampings and not being happy with the art anyway I went to etching. Now my art is duplicated and not some guys rendition of my art and I'm much happier.

Discoloration can occur but it's easily dealt with. A tiny bit of simichrome and it's a nice clean etch.
 
E.Carlson said:
I recently got a 6 ton A frame press from HF for about 60 bucks and use it to press my stamp into the blade. I get a better deeper stamp and don't have to worry about screwing it up with a poor hammer strike. Love it.
Click to expand...
would love to see your setup if you don't mind sharing

john april said:
i use the stamp holder $140. one whack with a hammer. it is more expensive on startup than etching, but should last forever.
Click to expand...
stamp holder? say what....
 
It's a guide, holds the stamp square and straight.
 
View attachment 701296 View attachment 701294 Here is the everstamp holder
HSC /// said:
would love to see your setup if you don't mind sharing


stamp holder? say what....
Click to expand...
HSC /// said:
would love to see your setup if you don't mind sharing


stamp holder? say what....
Click to expand...
Pretty simple set up. I had to trim the press rod a bit to fit the holder in, but using the press gives you way more control than whacking it with a hammer. You can really get it deep too.
I already had the holder, but I imagine it would be pretty simple to make a slotted attachment to slip over the end of the press rod that would hold the stamp. the holder wouldn't really be needed.
stamp2.jpg Press.jpg
 
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i just did, had a scrap piece of alum cube with a window and just milled out a 1/2" larger window to fit
press fit the stamp and i'll use some screws to align it
it's a quick way to get started and I'm sure i'll enhance it or make another one later.

I actually don't mind buying quality tools, but somehow $250 seemed a bit much

and it's yet to be determined if I can make a knife.... :)
 
I prefer stamping. Its a more permanent & prideful way to say "I made this".
Was sorely disappointed years ago when Klein Tools and others quit stamping their iconic logos and model numbers. Something was "lost" with that change to etching.
Anyway said that,
On occasion I will acid etch thru inscribed beeswax like the old knife makers of Finland.
 
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A .010 deep stamp is more permanent than a .010 deep etch? Ok.
 
After these photos I switched to a 50 ton stubby jack. It worked much nicer. So much better than ***king things up with a hammer.
(Don't make these presses any more difficult than necessary)







 
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