Another Huck has landed

That looks beautiful, i always get liners (when I had a chance)
What you gona use for fasteners?
 
I used some stainless 8-32 flat head screwdriver and some 1/4" stainless tubing I had laying around (tapped 8-32)

~Chip
 
My Tanker/Black arrived today!

I love it!

huck1.jpg
 
TommyGun56 said:
Still do not know why their is rust on a New Knife? :confused: Would really like an explanation on this:barf:
Click to expand...

I would suggest, if he had not etched with acid, there would have been none.

I did an electro etch with salt water on my old KZII. Got some good black crud from the INFI, but only the logo. INFI is pretty resistant to rust, as long as there is no true decarb. I bet that rusty looking spot under the handle did not pit or mark the steel.

What I used to strop has never given me rust, but I don't remove my scales.

I would guess if he pulled the handles off before using and before etching there would not be that surface rust.

I've stripped a few users. I'm not sure the grey/dark finish under the coating is what we actually mean when we say decarb.

On some of the early comp finishes, was a layer of decarb that rusted aggressively. They were uncoated. You had to sand through that layer to get past the aggressive rust layer.

On the knives I've stripped, that greyish layer has not shown aggressive rust tendencies, so I don't think it is a true decarb layer.




The deep squiggly grinder marks are more troublesome to me. I've never had one with it, but sure don't like the look.



Info dimples are cool, and I do like them on strippers!
 
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Thanks for the info, and yes the squiggly marks remain a mystery!!
Bigfattyt said:
I would suggest, if he had not etched with acid, there would have been none.

I did an electro etch with salt water on my old KZII. Got some good black crud from the INFI, but only the logo. INFI is pretty resistant to rust, as long as there is no true decarb. I bet that rusty looking spot under the handle did not pit or mark the steel.

What I used to strop has never given me rust, but I don't remove my scales.

I would guess if he pulled the handles off before using and before etching there would not be that surface rust.

I've stripped a few users. I'm not sure the grey/dark finish under the coating is what we actually mean when we say decarb.

On some of the early comp finishes, was a layer of decarb that rusted aggressively. They were uncoated. You had to sand through that layer to get past the aggressive rust layer.

On the knives I've stripped, that greyish layer has not shown aggressive rust tendencies, so I don't think it is a true decarb layer.




The deep squiggly grinder marks are more troublesome to me. I've never had one with it, but sure don't like the look.



Info dimples are cool, and I do like them on strippers!
Click to expand...
 
Big fattyt, I've had a few Infi blades stripped and have not had any gremlins. No sr101 yet but I have an O2W Ratweiler 1/4in black blade that will absolutely be stripped, sanded and convexed. I don't see anything questionable through the coating with an unaided eye so I'm hopeful!
 
Bigfattyt said:
I would suggest, if he had not etched with acid, there would have been none.

I did an electro etch with salt water on my old KZII. Got some good black crud from the INFI, but only the logo. INFI is pretty resistant to rust, as long as there is no true decarb. I bet that rusty looking spot under the handle did not pit or mark the steel.

What I used to strop has never given me rust, but I don't remove my scales.

I would guess if he pulled the handles off before using and before etching there would not be that surface rust.

I've stripped a few users. I'm not sure the grey/dark finish under the coating is what we actually mean when we say decarb.

On some of the early comp finishes, was a layer of decarb that rusted aggressively. They were uncoated. You had to sand through that layer to get past the aggressive rust layer.

On the knives I've stripped, that greyish layer has not shown aggressive rust tendencies, so I don't think it is a true decarb layer.




The deep squiggly grinder marks are more troublesome to me. I've never had one with it, but sure don't like the look.



Info dimples are cool, and I do like them on strippers!
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how the acid could have made a difference, it's not like I dunked the whole knife. I used a hot glue dam and a few drops of Ferric Chloride at a time. Also, the rust near the handle slab outline (on the blade) appeared overnight after stripping which prompted me to pull the slabs. If it's not decarb, why would it rust so quickly?

~Chip
 
Made some more progress :)




Redid the liners as well, the perfect hand filling thickness now...



~Chip
 
WValtakis said:
I used some stainless 8-32 flat head screwdriver and some 1/4" stainless tubing I had laying around (tapped 8-32)

~Chip
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Do you think a guy could drill out one side of the factory tubes to get one flare off, then tap and reuse the remaining part for the reinstall?
 
clampdaddy said:
Do you think a guy could drill out one side of the factory tubes to get one flare off, then tap and reuse the remaining part for the reinstall?
Click to expand...

I'm not going to say yes or no specifically but I have drilled one side and punched them out with relative ease. However, I have seen and had a few that were extremely stubborn.
 
stjones said:
I'm not going to say yes or no specifically but I have drilled one side and punched them out with relative ease. However, I have seen and had a few that were extremely stubborn.
Click to expand...
I wonder....If a guy were to tap them before removal, a screw could probably be used to pull a stubborn one from the other side and eliminate the possibility of damaging them when trying to knock them out with a hammer.
 
Thanks for the compliments guys!

Tapping the original tubes might work...But there's only one way to find out for sure ;)

For what it's worth, the tubes in my HUCK were VERY stubborn...They required quite a bit of persuasion to remove after drilling the flares off.

~Chip
 
Started convexing...Got the shoulders knocked off and most of the tool marks out :)



~Chip
 
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I'm having a hard time telling with mine still wearing the coating. Does the peak of that top ridge in the CBT sit fairly lower than the flat or did you have to be pretty carefull not to hit it while sanding?
 
It's lower, but you do have to be careful...I used a piece of G10 as a backer.

~Chip
 
The wait on mine is kill'n me.... next to my last ASH1 deliver ;) this has been my most anticipated Busse EVER !
 
So, it occurred to me that with my liners a sheath from one of our normal makers wasn't going to work unless I shipped it to them :(

The other day my boss asked me what I was going to do for a sheath and I mentioned my dilemma to him. Lo and behold, he tried his hand at Kydex pistol sheaths a while back and still had Kydex and everything but a press :D.

A little reading on our beloved forum, some improvisation and about 3 hours later...voila ;) I'm pretty pleased for my first try.










~Chip
 
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