mykel m
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2009
- Messages
- 12,132
Thanks coote.Nothing wrong with a thin blade as long as you use it right.
Another Machete Mod-Tramontina 18"
- Thread starter bearthedog
- Start date
I read somewhere else, possibly on another part of Bladeforums, that 'thin is in'. I'm not surprised.
For me, the only advantages of a thicker knife are greater strength when levering (provided that the temper is right), and more weight in a given length for chopping.
But apart from those things, a thin knife is much better. It is easier to keep a good profile while sharpening, and it generally slices much better. The knives I prefer for butchering and fish filleting are always thin knives.
And the steel in the Tramontina blades I've had has impressed me. As you may have seen in other posts, I once batoned a Tramontina machete down through the spines of nine sheep carcases, and the edge was still good.
I love the look of some of the thicker bowie-type knives I see here, but for nearly everything I do with a knife a thin blade suits me best. I want to own one of these bigger beasts, but it is hard to justify the purchase in my mind if I reason from the angle of cost versus utility.
A couple of years ago I went through a khukuri phase. While I still like the look and the 'idea' of these tools, I no longer own a khukuri. The extra weight was a nuisance, and I never did adapt to the bent blade. Of course many have adapted to khukuris and they do some clever things with them. One day I might just get, or make, something in the BK7 category, but even now Im thinking that this one is likely to stay in the cupboard or under the seat of the car.
For me, the only advantages of a thicker knife are greater strength when levering (provided that the temper is right), and more weight in a given length for chopping.
But apart from those things, a thin knife is much better. It is easier to keep a good profile while sharpening, and it generally slices much better. The knives I prefer for butchering and fish filleting are always thin knives.
And the steel in the Tramontina blades I've had has impressed me. As you may have seen in other posts, I once batoned a Tramontina machete down through the spines of nine sheep carcases, and the edge was still good.
I love the look of some of the thicker bowie-type knives I see here, but for nearly everything I do with a knife a thin blade suits me best. I want to own one of these bigger beasts, but it is hard to justify the purchase in my mind if I reason from the angle of cost versus utility.
A couple of years ago I went through a khukuri phase. While I still like the look and the 'idea' of these tools, I no longer own a khukuri. The extra weight was a nuisance, and I never did adapt to the bent blade. Of course many have adapted to khukuris and they do some clever things with them. One day I might just get, or make, something in the BK7 category, but even now Im thinking that this one is likely to stay in the cupboard or under the seat of the car.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,501
Fixed that for ya'.
It's worth noting that every single thick-bladed antique knife I've ever seen was a full flat grind, and are often broad, which reduces the thickness at the actual edge. The overwhelming majority of old knives are thinner than the average fixed blade today. It just cuts better, which is the main goal of a knife, right?
Last edited:
Thanks 42.... You are quite right. Cutting is what it is all about, but there seems to be an underlying desire to own a magic knife which can lever open strongroom doors and kill armor-clad monsters. These are unusual requirements for a knife, possibly suggested to our subconscious minds by a plague of video fantasies.
Last night I took the dog for a walk after dark. I also hastily ran a file over the edge of my new 16" Tramontina and took it with me.
Down here we have an introduced pest species of plant called gorse. It is a spiny shrub with fairly tough wood introduced by early English settlers. It loves our conditions and has to be battled constantly. Anyway, when I came to the local gorse patch I unsheathed the Tramontina. I eyed up a branch that was about an inch thick and growing diagonally from the main trunk. I took a tentative swing at it and to my surprise cut it off cleanly.
The only other machete of this length or longer that I've owned in the past was a thicker, heavier model. I wasn't expecting such pleasing performance from my slim new blade.
However, trying to cut half-inch stems of the prickly stuff growing straight up from the ground was not as impressive, although the results were acceptable. The stiff spikes help to cushion the blow. The stem is being pushed away before the blade makes contact. What is needed is swift movement. But I have to say that a heavier or thicker machete would probably not be as good. I'm of the opinion that a fast, thin blade is the best way to cope with springy stuff.
So yeah, I could easily adopt the slogan that 'thin is in' as far as the majority of blades are concerned.
Last night I took the dog for a walk after dark. I also hastily ran a file over the edge of my new 16" Tramontina and took it with me.
Down here we have an introduced pest species of plant called gorse. It is a spiny shrub with fairly tough wood introduced by early English settlers. It loves our conditions and has to be battled constantly. Anyway, when I came to the local gorse patch I unsheathed the Tramontina. I eyed up a branch that was about an inch thick and growing diagonally from the main trunk. I took a tentative swing at it and to my surprise cut it off cleanly.
The only other machete of this length or longer that I've owned in the past was a thicker, heavier model. I wasn't expecting such pleasing performance from my slim new blade.
However, trying to cut half-inch stems of the prickly stuff growing straight up from the ground was not as impressive, although the results were acceptable. The stiff spikes help to cushion the blow. The stem is being pushed away before the blade makes contact. What is needed is swift movement. But I have to say that a heavier or thicker machete would probably not be as good. I'm of the opinion that a fast, thin blade is the best way to cope with springy stuff.
So yeah, I could easily adopt the slogan that 'thin is in' as far as the majority of blades are concerned.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,501
If anything it sound like you could use an even thinner blade on that stuff, like what you see on the Condor Bush Cutlass. The name of the game with targets like that is tip velocity, and you get that with a long, thin, and narrow blade. That style of machete is completely unsuitable for wood chopping, but PERFECT for what you're describing.
I agree Mr FortyTwoBlades. Wholeheartedly.
And the thrust of our discussion does nothing to support the argument that somewhere out there is a knife that can do everything well.
I like the sound of that bush cutlass.
The trouble with gorse, and other scrub, is that it doesn't always grow in patches with uniformly sized stems. Danged stuff might be as thin as a pencil, or as thick as your arm. But that wouldn't stop me coveting a tool like a bush cutlass. It would certainly be useful. And if I were working from a vehicle, it wouldn't hurt to carry a variety of tools for whatever may be encountered. I do this sometimes as I am involved with a property conservation trust which has a lot of regenerating scrub on the land that it owns. We use a bulldozer at times, but more often the work is done with chainsaws, weed trimmers, herbicide (reluctantly), slashers, axes, grubbers (mattock?), one machete and sheep. Where possible I like to use a grubber on smaller scrub because if I chop it off at ground level, or even wrench it from the ground, it is less likely to re-grow.
In my pre-machete days, the tool recognised as appropriate for clearing scrub like our gorse was the slasher. Some folks might call this type of thing a brush hook. This had a longish wooden handle with a socketed steel blade. Blade design varied, but generally all the slashers I used or saw had fairly thick blades. A lot of them got broken handles.
One of the problems with cutting nasty shrubbery with prickles is to keep ones body unscathed. Leather gloves would help. Things like gorse and blackberry tend to ride along the tool and collide with hands and arms. And if a big branch is chopped through, it can land on you. It might seem slow, but heavy lopping shears provide an option that can be less frustrating. However slashers and loppers aren't the most convenient thing to stow in your hiking pack.
Although I have had experience with only a few machetes, I'm inclined to think that something like a 16" Tramontina is a good all-round tool to have with you. It mightn't be the best implement for all tasks, but it will be a big help in a number of situations. Plus they are tough and proven.
Now I have to figure out what to do with the 24" monster machete I bought. Seems a pity to cut it down when it might be of use like it is to someone else (geez they'd have to be tough and in peak condition to swing it for more than a couple of hours). I could reduce it to a sensible length and use the offcut to create a tough and versatile sheath knife. Meanwhile I will look at it in wonder.
And the thrust of our discussion does nothing to support the argument that somewhere out there is a knife that can do everything well.
I like the sound of that bush cutlass.
The trouble with gorse, and other scrub, is that it doesn't always grow in patches with uniformly sized stems. Danged stuff might be as thin as a pencil, or as thick as your arm. But that wouldn't stop me coveting a tool like a bush cutlass. It would certainly be useful. And if I were working from a vehicle, it wouldn't hurt to carry a variety of tools for whatever may be encountered. I do this sometimes as I am involved with a property conservation trust which has a lot of regenerating scrub on the land that it owns. We use a bulldozer at times, but more often the work is done with chainsaws, weed trimmers, herbicide (reluctantly), slashers, axes, grubbers (mattock?), one machete and sheep. Where possible I like to use a grubber on smaller scrub because if I chop it off at ground level, or even wrench it from the ground, it is less likely to re-grow.
In my pre-machete days, the tool recognised as appropriate for clearing scrub like our gorse was the slasher. Some folks might call this type of thing a brush hook. This had a longish wooden handle with a socketed steel blade. Blade design varied, but generally all the slashers I used or saw had fairly thick blades. A lot of them got broken handles.
One of the problems with cutting nasty shrubbery with prickles is to keep ones body unscathed. Leather gloves would help. Things like gorse and blackberry tend to ride along the tool and collide with hands and arms. And if a big branch is chopped through, it can land on you. It might seem slow, but heavy lopping shears provide an option that can be less frustrating. However slashers and loppers aren't the most convenient thing to stow in your hiking pack.
Although I have had experience with only a few machetes, I'm inclined to think that something like a 16" Tramontina is a good all-round tool to have with you. It mightn't be the best implement for all tasks, but it will be a big help in a number of situations. Plus they are tough and proven.
Now I have to figure out what to do with the 24" monster machete I bought. Seems a pity to cut it down when it might be of use like it is to someone else (geez they'd have to be tough and in peak condition to swing it for more than a couple of hours). I could reduce it to a sensible length and use the offcut to create a tough and versatile sheath knife. Meanwhile I will look at it in wonder.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,501
It's not as portable, but if working from a truck have you considered a scythe with a bush blade on it? Might do a nice job and would cut it off close to the ground.
With regard to the 24" monster, does it have distal taper at all (reduced thickness as it nears the point)? Blades 20" and over can get kind of "flaccid" if not tapered, and many aren't. Hold onto it, though. You'll eventually find yourself in a spot where you'll really appreciate the length. Typically a job where you need something heavier than a typical machete but a full-blown axe would be inappropriate as well.
With regard to the 24" monster, does it have distal taper at all (reduced thickness as it nears the point)? Blades 20" and over can get kind of "flaccid" if not tapered, and many aren't. Hold onto it, though. You'll eventually find yourself in a spot where you'll really appreciate the length. Typically a job where you need something heavier than a typical machete but a full-blown axe would be inappropriate as well.
Interesting that you should mention a scythe. They appear to be making a bit of a comeback near us with a guy offering them for sale at our local Sunday market. They should be good for the smaller stuff.
Yep... the big Tramontina does have a distal taper (thanks for explaining that one... I've learned something today), but to me it isn't that much. It is about 0.4mm... which is roughly sixteen thousandths of an inch if I'm reasoning correctly. But the taper seems to be uniform, and I believe that Tramontina know what they are doing.
Thanks. Good discussion.
Yep... the big Tramontina does have a distal taper (thanks for explaining that one... I've learned something today), but to me it isn't that much. It is about 0.4mm... which is roughly sixteen thousandths of an inch if I'm reasoning correctly. But the taper seems to be uniform, and I believe that Tramontina know what they are doing.
Thanks. Good discussion.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,501
Scythes are perfect for getting rid of plants like you're describing if you stick a stout bush blade on them. I can take out 1.5" diameter thick thistles easily.
Mistwalker
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2007
- Messages
- 18,679
Nice! One of my favorite mods for standard type machetes with deep sweeps and no point. Not like I'm going to be skinning with an 18 inch blade anyway...
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,501
Once we have another litter of Californian meat rabbits get up to size I'll be doing a video of processing one with an 18" Imacasa Pata de Cuche. There are some tricks that make the work manageable.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2012
- Messages
- 1,336
i like a 24" machete for cutting thorny stuff especially. i cut a lot of blackberry briars and multiflora rose with mine and the extra length it nice because you dont have spiny cut tops 'jumping back' at you so much. also, as they said in an above post, tip speed is key and a longer blade means you can get the tip moving faster when it contacts what you are trying to cut just due to the principles of physics.
although in a conservation setting when you are among a lot of brush some of which you want to cut and some you want to leave a shorter blade can be easier to maneuver. theres always tradeoffs, i guess.
i also have a product called a weed wrench that works well on woody plants if they arent too brittle. its a sort of heavy duty sliding bracket with a lever several feet long. you set the bracket down at the root collar and close it enough to 'bite' onto the plant you want to remove and then use the lever to pry the entire plant out of the ground. its kind of a heavy device and it can be a lot of work but it is *very* satisfying to rip a 2" diameter tree from the ground!
although in a conservation setting when you are among a lot of brush some of which you want to cut and some you want to leave a shorter blade can be easier to maneuver. theres always tradeoffs, i guess.
i also have a product called a weed wrench that works well on woody plants if they arent too brittle. its a sort of heavy duty sliding bracket with a lever several feet long. you set the bracket down at the root collar and close it enough to 'bite' onto the plant you want to remove and then use the lever to pry the entire plant out of the ground. its kind of a heavy device and it can be a lot of work but it is *very* satisfying to rip a 2" diameter tree from the ground!
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,501
I find that there are lots of ways to make a long machete function like a short one, but it DOES take more familiarity and comfort with the tool. I plan on keeping a 28" Imacasa Pata de Cuche for myself at some point soon and I'll probably do some demos with it.
- Joined
- May 22, 2013
- Messages
- 477
I LOVE the mod on the Tram Bolo machete!! It makes a $5-&15 dollar machete look like a much more expensive parang!! Add that to some reprofiling of the blade, touching up the wood scales to be a little more ergo, add some dark wood stain for the handle and viola, a custom looking machete that could do any light to medium chore you throw at with an astronomical cool factor! Nice work sir!! I'll have to reference your awesome pics when I mod the one I want to pic up! I'll also have to make a rig/sheath out of PVC, to complete the look!
I decided to do something fun today and do some mods to a couple of machetes. I cut and re-profiled the blades of a 16" Tramontina, 14 Tram and 16" Imacasa. I did a clip point profile with the Imacasa and 14" Tram and a Golok style with the Tram. I like the way these turn out. I re-sharpen both on my 1" belt sander and they have a wicked shape edge this kind of blade.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2017
- Messages
- 1
love the mod ....i am working on my own 2 machetesI had an 18” blade Tramontina machete since 2006 and after a fair amount of use I thought a MOD would be in order.
Mudman did the MOD
In the beginning
Aguilar killed a fer de lance snake with it back in 07'.
MUD MOD
Now it has a 13” blade with a sharp tip
More pics
both 18 inch IMACASA from El Salvador
but i love seaxes so they will get modified