Besides CPK knives, whaddaya like?

Hard Knocks said:
It's not quite as toothy Mike, but I've got a lot of skinning behind me on critters done with 52100. I think you will like it, although it is going to discolor. Cuts a long time but returns to a razor edge easily.
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Excellent! I've read many reports of satisfaction regarding 52100, but it isn't something I've gone after. D2 was sort of unavoidable, so I ended up using it quite a bit over the last few years. Due to the exposure, I've had varying experiences with D2, but I've never been dissatisfied, especially on soft tissue. The D2 EDC I have has been a bit of a revelation about how good it can be. I've never had a knife "zip" like that and stay "zippy" for so long. I would love to have a scalpel in optimized D2, now that i think about it.

I love trying new steels out, so I'm sure I'll enjoy the 52100. I also love when a knife matures naturally, so discoloration is just a bonus.
 
MikeKu825 said:
... I also love when a knife matures naturally, so discoloration is just a bonus.
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Nathan's D2 EDC which you are referring to is not only optimized but batch optimized. I've not found it to mature much yet. It performs amazingly well however compared to other D2 I've used. In all fairness I don't have a direct comparison as I've sold my other D2.

On the other hand I've found his earlier models in A2 to age IMO poorly if oils or fingerprints are left on it. I never do this but have bought a couple used that required serious Flitz.

On the D3V, I've found it to oxidize and start to look more matte. However Nathan's new stonewash setup seems to produce a much more glossy finish. No idea how that will compare. I have some examples that are oxidizing much faster than others though they are side by side and the same age.
 
JustinFournier said:
Nathan's D2 EDC which you are referring to is not only optimized but batch optimized. I've not found it to mature much yet. It performs amazingly well however compared to other D2 I've used. In all fairness I don't have a direct comparison as I've sold my other D2.

On the other hand I've found his earlier models in A2 to age IMO poorly if oils or fingerprints are left on it. I never do this but have bought a couple used that required serious Flitz.

On the D3V, I've found it to oxidize and start to look more matte. However Nathan's new stonewash setup seems to produce a much more glossy finish. No idea how that will compare. I have some examples that are oxidizing much faster than others though they are side by side and the same age.
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Interested by the "A2 to age poorly". Im curious what you observed in terms of corrosion, and what other steels you consider to age well. You also mentioned flitz.. (I love flitz).. so i guess the aging process was fairly superficial. To me, anything I can get off with flitz isn't really a problem.. it's pitting and deformation I disdain. The knife below is O1 and I love that it looks like crap.. cause it's sharp and comfortable.. and I use the crap out of it. But the stains are on top.. nothing really damaging.
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MikeKu825 said:
Interested by the "A2 to age poorly". Im curious what you observed in terms of corrosion, and what other steels you consider to age well. You also mentioned flitz.. (I love flitz).
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I live up in the PNW. Lots of rain, lots of salty air, and very wet. I've got pitting in 3V in particular under handles. So I'm particular about keeping things well maintained. I've never let it get out of control on my watch. But I've bought used with surface corrosion. I've had carbon steel spot in just one day. So over time I've moved everything to as corossion resistant or stainless as I can.
 
MikeKu825 said:
The knife below is O1 and I love that it looks like crap.. cause it's sharp and comfortable.. and I use the crap out of it. But the stains are on top.. nothing really damaging.
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I like the looks of your O1 blade. Here's some 52100 that started off coated. I flat ground it to thin it out and then forced a mustard patina. The handle section is still coated.

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Thanks J. Mine's pretty generic, but the son of a gun performs. It's about as maintenance free in that configuration as a slicey 52100 blade is going to get. I hope Don puts some of his up.
 
JustinFournier said:
You did a good job.

We need Don in here with his forced patina.

donscpoo donscpoo come share?
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Hard Knocks said:
Thanks J. Mine's pretty generic, but the son of a gun performs. It's about as maintenance free in that configuration as a slicey 52100 blade is going to get. I hope Don puts some of his up.
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I must say HK has already done a very good job on that forced patina! I can't do anything better.

This is one of my recent work on my BHK Battlelore O1. I did not do very well there and have to apply a second coat of mustard. That messed up the blade and caused the area near the edge to patina more. Lesson learned for me is to do it once and do it well. This is a user so I did not bother to polish the patina off to redo it.

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donscpoo said:
I must say HK has already done a very good job on that forced patina! I can't do anything better.

This is one of my recent work on my BHK Battlelore O1. I did not do very well there and have to apply a second coat of mustard. That messed up the blade and caused the area near the edge to patina more. Lesson learned for me is to do it once and do it well. This is a user so I did not bother to polish the patina off to redo it.

34492668401_32253ff3e8_k_d.jpg
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Man.. while I really appreciate your high standard for yourself.. edge-shmedge..I think that's awesome.
 
donscpoo said:
I must say HK has already done a very good job on that forced patina! I can't do anything better.

This is one of my recent work on my BHK Battlelore O1. I did not do very well there and have to apply a second coat of mustard. That messed up the blade and caused the area near the edge to patina more. Lesson learned for me is to do it once and do it well. This is a user so I did not bother to polish the patina off to redo it.

34492668401_32253ff3e8_k_d.jpg
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Where is that Spyderco folder? That was amazing.
 
adamlau said:
Searched the maker...Holy cow...Those are pricey fish knives!
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Adam, from what I know about Bob and his penchant for collecting knives which he has been doing for a very long time (well over 25 years IIRC) I think that CPK knives are the only production and semi custom fixed blade knives which he buys and collects. There are some great and wonderful custom knife makers on BFC, but Bob only seems to be smitten with Nathan's work as he should be ;)
 
JustinFournier said:
I live up in the PNW. Lots of rain, lots of salty air, and very wet. I've got pitting in 3V in particular under handles. So I'm particular about keeping things well maintained. I've never let it get out of control on my watch. But I've bought used with surface corrosion. I've had carbon steel spot in just one day. So over time I've moved everything to as corossion resistant or stainless as I can.
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What you mentioned about handles is exactly why I take mine off of every blade that isn't stainless and put a coat of RemOil underneath them. I've experienced the same issues (I live less than 2 miles from the ocean). My favorite rust inhibitor to date is Chapstick, especially if it's something I need to be food-safe.
 
ManOfSteel89 said:
What you mentioned about handles is exactly why I take mine off of every blade that isn't stainless and put a coat of RemOil underneath them. I've experienced the same issues (I live less than 2 miles from the ocean). My favorite rust inhibitor to date is Chapstick, especially if it's something I need to be food-safe.
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I've used Bert's bees chap stick which wax based chap stick on food prep knives in particular for camp kitchen knives and it works a damn, but never under the handles. I've experimented a ton with various bees wax based products for my wood cutting boards as well. I've been trying to get down to just one product. Currently I like a mineral oil and bees wax mix that is sold as a board treatment but works well on wood knife handles. For under the handles I'd like to get some kind of dip that would provide permanent protection so it was a one time deal.
 
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