Best Method of Sharpening?

L

lprevs

Joined
Jun 29, 2016
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Hi everyone,
For getting knives scary sharp, especially with harder steels, what do you guys think is really the "best" method for sharpening (belt sander, whetstones, hones) for around $50? I own several fixed blades, as well as folders, and I just don't have the experience with sharpening to decide on any single option. Also, are there any systems out there that're relatively cheap and allow for the changing of a grind (hollow grind --> Scandinavian)?
 
I use the DMT aligner system. It is a guided system with diamond stones and costs about $50. You can sharpen steels to S110V and beyond with it and it is almost foolproof.

There is no "best" system for everyone. Some people like freehand stones, some like a guided system, some people use the small belt sanders. It depends on your skill, what knives you are sharpening, and what you want out of it.
 
Can the DMT aligner system sharpen a Scandy grind? My current sharpening kit only goes to 20 degrees which isn't enough a lot of the time.
 
I realize its more than 50 bucks but I use the KME system. It goes to 17* and then you can turn it over on the slide and go waaaay lower dps. I have gone to 14*dps on one knife. You can start slow on them also in equipment and add on as you wish.
 
I will start by saying what I always do. You can build your own sharpener to use Edge Pro style stones for around $50 + stones. Just look at some of my other posts if you don't believe.

That said.....If around $50 was my cut off, I too would get the DMT Aligner kit. Very similar to the Lansky, but always seemed a bit better quality to me. I had it and the Lansky at the same time, and achieved my first truly sharp edges with it.
 
Billthesheepdog said:
I realize its more than 50 bucks but I use the KME system. It goes to 17* and then you can turn it over on the slide and go waaaay lower dps. I have gone to 14*dps on one knife. You can start slow on them also in equipment and add on as you wish.
Click to expand...

Don't mean to hijack this post but how exactly do you go lower than 17*? i will pm you for the answer
 
DavidHoback said:
I will start by saying what I always do. You can build your own sharpener to use Edge Pro style stones for around $50 + stones. Just look at some of my other posts if you don't believe.

That said.....If around $50 was my cut off, I too would get the DMT Aligner kit. Very similar to the Lansky, but always seemed a bit better quality to me. I had it and the Lansky at the same time, and achieved my first truly sharp edges with it.
Click to expand...

Or, you can buy one that mimics the EdgePro with a high level of accuracy for $30, including 4 stones...
 
robgmn said:
Or, you can buy one that mimics the EdgePro with a high level of accuracy for $30, including 4 stones...
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"Well"..... Um, I do recommend that as well. Although they have very poor quality. They do accept the Edge Pro style stones. And that is what matters. I would NOT worry about the stones that come with these "el cheapo" machines, as they are beyond CRAP! Use them up sure! But you will only get a few knives out of them. Work on getting quality stones. On the other hand, when you build one, you can actually make it BETTER than the Edge Pro, which is what I did.
 
The DMT aligner kit will not allow for reprofiling of hollow to Scandi grind as the OP has requested. Don't know why folk are suggesting this option.
 
No, a $50 dollar option will NOT do this very effectively. And actually it will, but you would be left with a 34 degree angle, when a true scandi is 30 or less. But, this is why I always recommend people build their own. My sharpener will sharpen to just a couple of degrees.

To be honest, the only real way you are going to change a blade profile is by heavy material removal. I would go to by belt grinder & ceramic belts for this. Then finish sharpen. The OP was very specific about price though......THAT is why some are recommending the DMT. Did I answer your question bansky? J/K:D
 
Harbor Freight 1x30 and some Norton blaze belts will be close to $50.

A coarse stone or even a progression of wet/dry from 60 or 80 grit and up at about $1 a sheet. Depending you might need a handful of sheets and then transition to a stone. It will be slow going but can be done manually and is probably the only way to do it for under $50.

I've used a combination stone and also done it on one of my Washboards using 80 and 120 grit wet dry. $52 bucks plus shipping and one will need another 4 bucks worth of wet dry to do a moderate regrind.
 
HeavyHanded, your forgetting the elbo greese and extra testical needed cause you dropped one, when your done reprofiling by hand, LOL.. :confused:
 
DavidHoback said:
HeavyHanded, your forgetting the elbo greese and extra testical needed cause you dropped one, when your done reprofiling by hand, LOL.. :confused:
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Man, it sure feels that way!
But...as long as you treat it like a side project - 15 minutes here, 20 minutes there - set it aside between.

Otherwise you really need a belt grinder or slow grind wheel with a nice guide on it if you want to reprofile before your very eyes.

I've been thinking of getting the Tormek adapter to run their jigs on a grinder, but haven't got around to it. Pretty sure that's over the $50 target too.
 
Hi,
You should get some sharpening experience today,
you can use the bottom of coffee cups

a hollow grind is a built in sharpening guide better than a "scandi" cause there is less metal to remove to sharpen,
see an old boyscout (jackknife) do it its Instinctive Knife Sharpening

You can also get some grinding experience,
and a hollow grind is built in sharpening guide
so get a sharpening stone ($1 stone from the $tree will do),
put it on some non-slip shelf liner or a wet rag on the floor (ok or table),
grab knife with two hands and start grinding
do 5 or 15 minute session
try it get some experience
all its going to cost you is 5-15minutes plus $1-$10 for a basic stone

If you like it, grind a little each day, by the end of the week it will be hollow no more.
If you dont like it, then ... you decide :)
you'll still have $49 left,
plenty of dough for a ruixin pro with a few extra chinese diamond stones


But don't believe the "scandinavian" hype,
go cut some wood with sharp knives first (like your practice kitchen paring knife),
having a single bevel is not that important,
a comfortable handle is more important than how many bevels a knife has

Also if you're going to DIY,
you don't need metal to machine , nuts bolts screws....
and you don't need to get fancy like this guy and the next guy,
or even fancy stones or fancy sandpaper,
$1 worth of sandpaper goes a long way with a jig,
there are simpler machines than this,
but I really liked the planetary gear here
DIY $5 Knife Sharpening System like APEX or Lansky from rubbish / Точилка для ножей из мусора - Vitalii Tereshchuk

midrange knife sharpening jig
FDKV30NHO7XOARN.MEDIUM.jpg
 
Thank you bucketstove. I'm always telling people to make one, but I've never thought of posting how to videos on making a cheap one. Great job! I really like mine for just under $60 though.:D
 
I'll add to the above - pick up some cheap knives to practice on or use old kitchen knives. Do not learn on a knife that has real personal or cash value.

When the OP says "especially with harder steels" you will not have any fun sharpening on a coffee cup. Get a stone or other quality abrasive and leave the coffee cup to lower RC carbon and stainless (where it will do a great job in context).
 
lprevs said:
Hi everyone,
For getting knives scary sharp, especially with harder steels, what do you guys think is really the "best" method for sharpening (belt sander, whetstones, hones) for around $50? I own several fixed blades, as well as folders, and I just don't have the experience with sharpening to decide on any single option. Also, are there any systems out there that're relatively cheap and allow for the changing of a grind (hollow grind --> Scandinavian)?
Click to expand...

Unless there's something very strange and perversely THICK with the hollow grind, odds are it's already thinner than what you'll find in most Scandi grind blades. If so, trying to grind the hollow to a Scandi would likely make the thinner portion at the edge and behind it retreat a long way back into the upper portion of the blade, wasting a lot of blade width (edge-to-spine) and steel.

That being said, such a grinding project would go a long ways toward training the hands for sharpening in general. And with that, the Scandi itself is a good grind for learning sharpening, as the 'proper' method for sharpening a Scandi will be to lay the wide, flat bevels flush to the stone and grind away. Those wide bevels provide the built-in guide for angle control.


David
 
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DavidHoback said:
"Well"..... Um, I do recommend that as well. Although they have very poor quality. They do accept the Edge Pro style stones. And that is what matters. I would NOT worry about the stones that come with these "el cheapo" machines, as they are beyond CRAP! Use them up sure! But you will only get a few knives out of them. Work on getting quality stones. On the other hand, when you build one, you can actually make it BETTER than the Edge Pro, which is what I did.
Click to expand...

Deleted.
Misunderstood quoted post at first.
 
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