Best steel for a chef knife western or Japanese

A

aarondj30

Joined
May 31, 2017
Messages
8
I was thinking about using AEB-L stock removal method and sending it out for heat treat. I also see that Aldo Bruno has 52100 san mai. I would probably send that out for heat treat also I am new and my million-dollar boss asked me to make a chef's knife for him so I wanted to be good thanks any advice would be great!
 
I would start off with a paring/utility knife or two. something with a 4" or so blade. as far as high carbon steel, I would use either O1 or 1.2519 and have it tempered to Rc63-64. I would use steel between 3/64" and 3/32" thick.
 
Performance wise, Aeb-l, W2, 52100, and hitachi white are renowned for stable thin edges. Three of the four are readily available at knife steel suppliers. After that, choices are endless compromises between fine grain structure, edge holding, and toughness.
 
scott.livesey said:
I would start off with a paring/utility knife or two. something with a 4" or so blade. as far as high carbon steel, I would use either O1 or 1.2519 and have it tempered to Rc63-64. I would use steel between 3/64" and 3/32" thick.
Click to expand...
scott.livesey said:
I would start off with a paring/utility knife or two. something with a 4" or so blade. as far as high carbon steel, I would use either O1 or 1.2519 and have it tempered to Rc63-64. I would use steel between 3/64" and 3/32" thick.
Click to expand...
Thank you i have made a few already, i just want to make the best i can this time. Im still real new and love learning this trade, im def. Hooked.
 
Willie71 said:
Performance wise, Aeb-l, W2, 52100, and hitachi white are renowned for stable thin edges. Three of the four are readily available at knife steel suppliers. After that, choices are endless compromises between fine grain structure, edge holding, and toughness.
Click to expand...
Thank you, im glade to see them steels you sugest. 52100, W2, #2 and AEB-L are all pretty much a tie then for the best steel then for a chef knife?
 
aarondj30 said:
Thank you, im glade to see them steels you sugest. 52100, W2, #2 and AEB-L are all pretty much a tie then for the best steel then for a chef knife?
Click to expand...


Yup. You can't beat any of these steels for chef knife use.
 
aarondj30 said:
Thank you, im glade to see them steels you sugest. 52100, W2, #2 and AEB-L are all pretty much a tie then for the best steel then for a chef knife?
Click to expand...
these are good steels but
#2 is not exported. W2 is only sold buy one or two distributors and rarely seen less than 1/8" thick. A cutlery steel some of us here have used is 1.2519 or O7. from Roman Landes (http://www.hypefreeblades.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=616&p=5147&hilit=1.2519#p5147)
"DIN 1.2519 runs amongst the best steels you can get for fine cuttlery.
Especially for fine cutting tools e.g. woodworking, high performance kichten knives, etc. where a true razor sharpness and very high edge stability is needed.
The little addon tungsten (Wolfram) makes all the difference, higher hardness, higher wear resistance.
Its just great for the sorckremoval approac, since forging and HT after forging, needs an experienced hand and know how.
Working hardness should be 63-65HRC assuming the right HT."
It is similar in composition to Aogami Blue #2 having the same carbon and tungsten but higher chromium and vanadium. Heat treat is the same as O1. my test mules are approaching 2 years old and i have had no issues with chipping or edge damage.
 
Willie71 said:
Yes, the size selection is pretty limited. :(:poop:
Click to expand...
Bill Burke had some of the Takefu equivalent to Blue #2, V-Toku2 in monosteel form a while backbit I think that went pretty quickly. Blade Gallery still has some of the .120 thick stainless clad stuff listed, up to 2.5 wide by 16 long, but it is pricey. However, if you do an apples to apples comarison with the 410ss/52100 stuff that Aldo is selling, the Takefu is less than half as expensive. 1/8 x 2 x 12 for $41 vs $110!!!! You could stock remove a burly gyuto out of a piece like that.
 
Last edited:
If you are not in a big hurry, Aldo's Nitro V might be a good choice. It is basically AEB-L with some vanadium added. Several people have bought some and reports should be coming about it"s performance pretty soon.
Tim
 
jdm61 said:
Bill Burke had some of the Takefu equivalent to Blue #2, V-Toku2 in monosteel form a while backbit I think that went pretty quickly. Blade Gallery still has some of the .120 thick stainless clad stuff listed, up to 2.5 wide by 16 long, but it is pricey. However, if you do an apples to apples comarison with the 410ss/52100 stuff that Aldo is selling, the Takefu is less than half as expensive. 1/8 x 2 x 12 for $41 vs $110!!!! You could stock remove a burly gyuto out of a piece like that.
Click to expand...
Have to look into the V-Toku2 clad. I was lucky to get a 24" piece of Aldo's 52100 San Mai early when it was half of what it is now. I'd like some more but it's out of my price range.
 
hi aaron
first:
does your boss know that these alloys are not stainless?

above steels are good . Im in agreement with all the answers you got,however,for kitchen use,(abuse lol):look for a steel with lots of nickel
less rust and TOUGHER.
if you want used steel,try an old saw from a mill they dont tell you whats in it but I know it is tough stuff
especially when they use swedish UDEHOLM steel--- easy working/stock removal hardening/annealing.................
hope I helped
Joe
PS write me and ill be happy to help more
 
Thanks for all of your advice I have finished the knife and I decided to go with AEB-L the knife was very thin about 1 mm at The Cutting Edge I made it out of .100 I had Ironwood G10 spacers and a mosaic the only complaint I have with the steel is it gummed up all my belts I did go through way more belts than usual. I sent the heat treat to Peter's heat treat and had it hardened to 61 I would post a picture but I can't figure out how
 
aarondj30 said:
Thanks for all of your advice I have finished the knife and I decided to go with AEB-L the knife was very thin about 1 mm at The Cutting Edge I made it out of .100 I had Ironwood G10 spacers and a mosaic the only complaint I have with the steel is it gummed up all my belts I did go through way more belts than usual. I sent the heat treat to Peter's heat treat and had it hardened to 61 I would post a picture but I can't figure out how
Click to expand...
Is 1 mm a typo? That is .04 inches and the AEB-L gyuto that I just finished was down like .006-007 or about .15mm before i sharpened it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top