Fitting a guard

Gossman Knives

Edged Toolmaker
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
Messages
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I've got a large Tusker that gets a guard so I thought it would be fun to post how I do it. When getting the knife ready, a slot should be filed at the bottom for the guard to snug up tight and not shift back and forth.
First, I cut the piece of brass according to the width of the knife. I extend it 3/4" for shaping.

brass.jpg


Next to the milling machine to cut the slot. This is a 1/4" thick knife. The slot milled will be 1/4".

mill.jpg


Once it's slotted, it needs to be squared with a file.

file.jpg


Once it's squared it's fitted to the knife.

fitted.jpg


Next to the slack belt for shaping the oval shape.

shape.jpg


Once it's shaped then on to the 1 1/2" contact wheel to rough shape the finger cut out.

smallwheel.jpg


Now it's ready to be soldered.

ready.jpg


After it's soldered, then the handle scales get attached. This will stay clamped overnite. Tomorrow I'll post finishing the guard and completing the knife.

handles.jpg



Scott
 
cool beans, Scott. I don't think I have seen a good tutorial on guards before. That grinder looks like a monster. I saw some pictures of your shop a while back, looks like you have broken her in real good.

Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see the rest of the tutorial as well as the finished product.
 
Ok here's finishing the knife. I've got the scales started. This is the final shaping on the grinder.

finalshape.jpg



This is the end product. It's a 1/4" thick by 1 3/4" wide O1 and walnut burl scales.

walnut.jpg



Scott
 
Hey Scott, is your KMG running backwards?? Why are the sparks coming up rather than down??

Also, can you show more detail on the soldering??
 
Hey Scott, is your KMG running backwards?? Why are the sparks coming up rather than down??

Also, can you show more detail on the soldering??

LOL, I here that alot. There is no right or wrong way to rotate the belt. It's all in what you're comfortable with. All the debris is flying away from me. If I would grind vertically, then yes I'd want it rotating the other way.
I solder from the backside where the guard meets the handle material.
Here's a pic of the finger cutout where the guard meets the handle.

fingerguard.jpg


Scott
 
Ok, added to wish list, Gossman Large Tusker with brass guard.

Save

Print

distrubute liberally to relatives and friends :D
 
Ok, added to wish list, Gossman Large Tusker with brass guard.

Save

Print

distrubute liberally to relatives and friends :D

:thumbup: :D I posted in the other thread, this one is on it's way to the new owner. Sure is hard letting them go.
Scott
 
Like the tutorial, thanks for putting it up; any chance you want to add the soldering methods onto it :) That's the part I always have trouble on!
 
I take it this is also one of the ones for the waiting list (order a year in advance?)

<sigh> Good things come to those who wait, right?
 
Ray, I solder from the backside where the handle meets the guard. Soldering is done the same as if you were soldering two copper water pipes together. I use a soldering iron and a propane torch. Put the solder along the crack where the guard meets the tang. I use liquid flux on a Q-Tip. Too much flux causes corrosion along the guard and ricasso. heat the area to be soldered with the torch and melt the solder with the iron. You may have to run the torch flame on the area if the iron is not melting the solder completely. Takes some practice.

WA yes a 1 year wait. I have gotten into outsourcing yet. Waterjet cutting and heat treating. I do all the work in my shop. I only heat treat up to 6 blades at a time. 7 blades on the PSK's. On full customs no more then 4 blades depending on steel type. I have better control over the process. All grinding is done freehand. Basically, 100% handmade.
Scott
 
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