For you sharpening nuts - what angle edge on your double bevel bushcrafters?

What angle on a double bevel knife for bushcraft?

  • Less that 20 degrees.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • 20 degrees

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • 25 degrees

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • 30 degrees

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • More than 30 degrees

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Other - please specify in the thread.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

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I have a few double bevel bushcrafters - and I am going to make a angled stand to rest my Japanese Water Stones on (to make sharpening easier) and I want to set the bevel at the best angle.

What angle would you recommend? I often used 20 degree bevels on my pocket knives - but I am trying to get an idea from you bushcrafters what you use.

I will post a poll to make it easier - but would like any words you want to post up. Please only post angles you have used and believe are the best - not just something you have read.

TF
 
I would think it would depend on the steel/temper. A koster 3v at 12.5 degrees will hold up better than the same knife in O1.

My inkling would be 20 degrees as an all around angle. I use that with all my knives except said 3v.
 
If it's a scandi with a secondary bevel I would recommend 1st off making a real 25 degree scandi with no bevel or 2nd making a 25 degree scandi with an 30 degree secondary bevel. It should still function very much like a scandi if you do that it will likely just be a little more durable but not quite as sharp as the real deal!
 
Scandi's are scandi's - Zero Grind.

Convex are convex.

I am talking about a flat ground blade with a secondary bevel.


TF
 
it really depends on the purpose, but I think 15-17.5 degrees is right around the neck of the woods I want to be in, for cutting and splitting performance and edge durability. If this is a pocket slicer or skinner, 12.5.
 
It seems people are talking about both angle per side and inclusive angle. I meant 20 degrees per side, 40 inclusive, which is what I think you were asking.
 
Gossman Knives said:
If it's a full flat grind you are talking about, I'd convex the secondary bevel.
Scott
Click to expand...

I free hand sharpen, so I don't end up with a specific angle. Most of my secondary bevels end up being convexed. Even my Scandi's end up with a micro convexed edge--try as I may for a zero grind.
 
Rotte said:
I free hand sharpen, so I don't end up with a specific angle. Most of my secondary bevels end up being convexed. Even my Scandi's end up with a micro convexed edge--try as I may for a zero grind.
Click to expand...

Same here. I try to keep "factory" bevels , or sometimes grind them steeper ( longer secondary) , but they usually get convexed to some degree.

Over the years, I've tried ( and bought) almost every sharpening product made. I have totally reverted to freehand the last while. I put a lot of hours into sharpening, and my skills and steadiness are pretty good. It takes patience. I sharpen every day without fail ( too many knives, LOL !) The variations with free hand will never produce "perfect bevels." This is where convex shines , it allows more variation while still producing satisfactory results.

These are my observations. Yours may vary, of course.;)
 
15+ per side, 30-35 inclusive for my flat grind blade.
for general wood working blade, I recommend 30.
for more hard working woods like hardwood or bamboo, 40 may be better.

I voted for 30 in the poll.
 
Hey tf,

What's the big dealeo?

Just listen for the bell - he'll take care of it!




knife-sharpener.jpg




Doc :D
 
Doc,

I love it! That slack belt, I bet, makes an awesome edge.

I made a 12 degree ramp in order to sharpen my blades a little more efficiently and got some GREAT results on my Ray Laconico in 01. I am VERY pleased with what probably amounts (after stropping and not being perfectly level) to about 27 degrees.

TF
 
I did not vote, but I find this very interesting. The reason being, I do not consider 20 degrees to be a sharp knife. Yet, so far, it is the most popular answer. To me, that just means we are not all talking the same language, which I suspected all along.

Great topic TF!
 
SouthernCross said:
G'day TF


Does this mean that a "scandi" that has a secondary bevel added to improve the toughness of its' edge is no longer a scandi?

Enquiring minds want to know :D



Kind regards
Mick
Click to expand...

Mick,

They are scandi's - but are also like training wheels on Harley's. They may make you feel safe - but when you know how to ride, they are unnecessary. :D:foot:

At least that is what a knife maker once told me. I think this is true - I felt tempted to do this to my scandi's because I didn't really know how to sharpen a scandi, or did not have a high quality steel.

To each their own though, I try to buy a blade and retain the geometry for which it was designed and made - if that geometry doesn't work - I look into a different knife.
 
Brian Andrews said:
I did not vote, but I find this very interesting. The reason being, I do not consider 20 degrees to be a sharp knife. Yet, so far, it is the most popular answer. To me, that just means we are not all talking the same language, which I suspected all along.

Great topic TF!
Click to expand...

What do you mean Brian? I am not sure how the angle effects sharpness, in your mind.

You have have any angle of blade that is honed sharp. It may not be an effective geometry - but it is sharp.

I guess I am now confused too.

TF
 
I usually sharpen at about a 15 degree per side and then hit it lightly with a hanging strop which puts a little convex microbevel on it. :)
 
I echo what Rotte said. My knives range from shaving sharp to toothly sharp. I use hones, stones, sandpaper, strops, and manage to produce sharpness that works for me. Nothing but hand sharpening so I know the angle changes as I move.
 
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