I can flick open my Black Talon 2 but can't do it with the new Spartan

[not so dull]

I can flick open my Black Talon 2 but can't do it with the new Spartan I just bought. I don't want to unscrew the torx and adjust it as I have bad experience , I don't want any blade play, it is rock solid now
Just wondering, will it break in, or will I have to adjust the pivot?

 

[Man with no name]

It's been my personal experience that the Spartan is one of Cold Steel's most un-flickabe knives out there. To be honest it's a chore to open it with one hand. Feels like setting a rat trap that at any moment is going to snap shut. I have an older model, black with smooth scales and a newer grey handle, serrated, full flat grind version. The new grey Spartan is extra stiff in comparison but it's brand new. But even the older model is tough and barely flickable, and that's after years of carry. I love the Spartan but to me, it's a two handed proposition whether opening or closing. Don't much care for the pocket snag feature as it tends to tear clothing over time.

 

[not so dull]

It's been my personal experience that the Spartan is one of Cold Steel's most un-flickabe knives out there. To be honest it's a chore to open it with one hand.

Yeah, a chore! I can open it (just open, not flick open) slowly with one hand, but it's petty hard.

Feels like setting a rat trap that at any moment is going to snap shut.

That's true! :lol:

Don't much care for the pocket snag feature as it tends to tear clothing over time.

I believe for me it'll be the main method of opening

 

[Man with no name]

But once the Spartan is "cocked and locked" in the open position with its Triad lock and superior handle design, there's absolutely no chance that your fingers are going to slide up on the blade. Built like the proverbial tank and virtually bomb proof, the only way to improve the strength would be to make a fixed blade version of this spectacular knife.

 

[Tsujigiri]

It won't break in to be more flickable; it's one of the more utilitarian grade Cold Steel knives and the geometry isn't well suited to a quick flick. You can get it open reliably if you add a wrist flick, though.

I've noticed that the higher end CS knives like the aluminum Espada, AD10, and Black Talon II have phosphor bronze washers paired with paper-thin teflon washers that smooth up the action without having that spongey feeling that thick teflon washers have.

 

[Tafkaag]

Your Spartan appears to be current production (full flat grind rather than saber ground). The original grind was better able to be opened inertially because of the increased mass at the spine. Some practice may burnish the parts enough to work with your blade. It'll never truly thumb-flick because lockbacks--Tri-Ads in particular--aren't good for that. But a solid wrist snap should eventually be able to work, and save wear and tear on your thumb.

 

[not so dull]

It won't break in to be more flickable; it's one of the more utilitarian grade Cold Steel knives and the geometry isn't well suited to a quick flick. You can get it open reliably if you add a wrist flick, though.

I've noticed that the higher end CS knives like the aluminum Espada, AD10, and Black Talon II have phosphor bronze washers paired with paper-thin teflon washers that smooth up the action without having that spongey feeling that thick teflon washers have.

My Black Talon 2 is so much easier to open. In fact, I can flick it open easily, it is very smooth.

Your Spartan appears to be current production (full flat grind rather than saber ground).

Yes, it is new, I just bought it.

The original grind was better able to be opened inertially because of the increased mass at the spine.

Interesting! I wish they hadn't changed the geometry.

Some practice may burnish the parts enough to work with your blade. It'll never truly thumb-flick because lockbacks--Tri-Ads in particular--aren't good for that. But a solid wrist snap should eventually be able to work, and save wear and tear on your thumb.

Just wondering, how many times do I need to open and close the knofe for it to break in?

 

[Tafkaag]

Interesting! I wish they hadn't changed the geometry.


Just wondering, how many times do I need to open and close the knofe for it to break in?

Re the geometry, I agree.

Re break in, a lot. Your wrists are apt to get sore in the near term. A lot of it could be done manually, taking the knife from closed to mostly open to speed the process. Learning to wrist-snap it open will aid in deployment when needed, especially if you practice drawing before opening. I'm not huge on "waving" CS knives with thumb plates given the narrowness of the slot between plate and spine, that and they require a rearward draw you may not be able to achieve in real life if you're against a wall, prone, or there's another attacker behind you.

 

[not so dull]

Re the geometry, I agree.

Re break in, a lot. Your wrists are apt to get sore in the near term. A lot of it could be done manually, taking the knife from closed to mostly open to speed the process. Learning to wrist-snap it open will aid in deployment when needed, especially if you practice drawing before opening. I'm not huge on "waving" CS knives with thumb plates given the narrowness of the slot between plate and spine, that and they require a rearward draw you may not be able to achieve in real life if you're against a wall, prone, or there's another attacker behind you.

I closed and almost opened it about 100 times. No signs of improvement yet

 

[Tafkaag]

I closed and almost opened it about 100 times. No signs of improvement yet

To quote the late Ron Shock, "A lot. A lot. A lot. More than you'd think. A lot."

 

[not so dull]

To quote the late Ron Shock, "A lot. A lot. A lot. More than you'd think. A lot."

Just did another ×100

 

[Tafkaag]

Just did another ×100

If you're still able to count the reps, you ain't there yet.

 

[Tafkaag]

One other thing may help--disassembly and polishing the washers as shown below starting at 1:06:

 

[DangerZone98]

Sorry this isn’t of much help, but I never really ‘flick open’ any of my Cold Steels. The slow roll method where my thumb makes contact with the blade during the whole deployment process is what works for me. I’d rather have a method that works all the time.

The Spartan and Voyager XL are a bit more difficult to open one handed for sure.

 

[David Mary]

I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier. Cold Steel Tri-Ad lock knives are a snap to adjust the lock bar tension on. All you need to do it take out the lock spring, and literally just bend it more in one direction or the other depending on whether you want to have to apply more or less pressure to the lock bar. Every Cold Steel Tri-Ad lock knife I have ever had received this treatment from me, resulting in easy one handed operation with no compromise of lockup strength. Couple of torx bits and two pairs of pliers and you're laughing.

When you reduce the lock spring stiffness, it causes the lock bar to push against the tang with lower force, and it is that force (in addition to the shape of the tang and how it mates up to the lockbar face) that dictates how hard it is to open the knife. The lockbar will be easier to press in as well.

 

[Boss Hogg]

I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier. Cold Steel Tri-Ad lock knives are a snap to adjust the lock bar tension on. All you need to do it take out the lock spring, and literally just bend it more in one direction or the other depending on whether you want to have to apply more or less pressure to the lock bar. Every Cold Steel Tri-Ad lock knife I have ever had received this treatment from me, resulting in easy one handed operation with no compromise of lockup strength. Couple of torx bits and two pairs of pliers and you're laughing.

When you reduce the lock spring stiffness, it causes the lock bar to push against the tang with lower force, and it is that force (in addition to the shape of the tang and how it mates up to the lockbar face) that dictates how hard it is to open the knife. The lockbar will be easier to press in as well.

CS should include something about this in their literature. It really is easy to adjust to desired preferences, while still retaining extremely solid lockup.

 

[Man with no name]

Sorry this isn’t of much help, but I never really ‘flick open’ any of my Cold Steels. The slow roll method where my thumb makes contact with the blade during the whole deployment process is what works for me. I’d rather have a method that works all the time.

The Spartan and Voyager XL are a bit more difficult to open one handed for sure.

So far I have not had problems flicking any of the XL Voyagers open. Inertia due to the sheer size and weight of the larger blades actually make it easier to flick open than the smaller knives.