paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

wvdavidr said:
I would also like info. on the rubber wheels. I am tired of regritting the paper wheels and no longer use them.
Click to expand...

How much are you grinding to be regritting so much? My set has a lot of years of use on it and I've regritted just a few times. It takes less than 10 mins plus drying time...
 
dsmegst said:
How much are you grinding to be regritting so much? My set has a lot of years of use on it and I've regritted just a few times. It takes less than 10 mins plus drying time...
Click to expand...
Please refer to posts 1717, 1718 and 1719 in the previous page, where cbwx34 makes a smart observation that worked for me this time. But it is going to happen again (and again...). A number of members have posted frustrating experiences with the re-gritting process and not all of us are blessed with the exact touch to work successfully with these materials (glue and powder) which can create a mess when not applied properly. I'm leery of even starting with that.
The rubber wheels require no waxing, no re-coating and apparently don't wear out in a lifetime (or more...) because they are designed for metal work with an high friction coefficient, a factor that is absent in blade sharpening.
I have ordered a Cratex (180 grit) wheel because I believe it will cause one problem to vanish from my life. I found very limited references about them in sharpening and woodworking forums, and all are peerless. Metal working forums don't seem to be as extremely anal as woodworkers and (specially) sharpeners are, so no info there.
And all for that for the cost of 2 paper wheels.
Later I may consider a rubber wheel in a fine grit as a substitute to the slotted one.
I certainly will post my impressions. Sporadically, as a few trips are planned for this summer.
 
nolden7 said:
Please refer to posts 1717, 1718 and 1719 in the previous page, where cbwx34 makes a smart observation that worked for me this time. But it is going to happen again (and again...). A number of members have posted frustrating experiences with the re-gritting process and not all of us are blessed with the exact touch to work successfully with these materials (glue and powder) which can create a mess when not applied properly. I'm leery of even starting with that.
The rubber wheels require no waxing, no re-coating and apparently don't wear out in a lifetime (or more...) because they are designed for metal work with an high friction coefficient, a factor that is absent in blade sharpening.
I have ordered a Cratex (180 grit) wheel because I believe it will cause one problem to vanish from my life. I found very limited references about them in sharpening and woodworking forums, and all are peerless. Metal working forums don't seem to be as extremely anal as woodworkers and (specially) sharpeners are, so no info there.
And all for that for the cost of 2 paper wheels.
Later I may consider a rubber wheel in a fine grit as a substitute to the slotted one.
I certainly will post my impressions. Sporadically, as a few trips are planned for this summer.
Click to expand...

Oh, I understand the problem with too much wax. It was just surprising to me that regritting the wheel was troublesome. One thing I was taught early on was to make sure to remove any traces of the old glue and grit before applying the new glue/grit layer.

I do wish someone makes a safe, quality leather wheel. If I can speed up the stropping process, I'd be all set. I don't want to risk attempting a DIY hack job and end up getting hurt.
 
rlucius said:
Sir

Surgi Sharp http://www.surgisharp.com/products produces excellent leather wheels, 6" or 8" diameters leather clad face only, or face and sides clads.

Have used them for years without any problems. Mr. Mike Bellis stands 100% by his products.

Hopes this helps.
Click to expand...

Thank you kindly for the link. I'll be sure to look them up. Quick question, do you use them bare to strop or with compound like the polish paper wheel?

Dan
 
Dan

Polishing we use compound

De burring we use our wheel bare.

Also use our paper wheels as above.

Mr. Bellis makes wheels rough side out or smooth side out. Personal favorite rough side out.

Have a great weekend.
 
dsmegst said:
One thing I was taught early on was to make sure to remove any traces of the old glue and grit before applying the new glue/grit layer.
Click to expand...

That is the problem for me. Getting the wheel clean. Also have not found a glue that held up well.
 
kelbro said:
That is the problem for me. Getting the wheel clean. Also have not found a glue that held up well.
Click to expand...

Get the coarsest sandpaper you can find, and use a piece of wood or metal to hold it against the wheel. (I think a little heat buildup helps).

Plain ol' white Elmer's glue has held up just fine for me.

Also in ref. to the wax issue above... I use it very sparingly, and found no need to 'wax the wheel' for each knife. If I see wax on the wheel, and/or wax is showing up on the knife I'm sharpening, I've found that to be more than enough on the wheel. When I reapply, I just rub a little on the wheel with it off... I think doing it while running adds too much.
 
cbwx34 said:
Get the coarsest sandpaper you can find, and use a piece of wood or metal to hold it against the wheel. (I think a little heat buildup helps).

Plain ol' white Elmer's glue has held up just fine for me.

Also in ref. to the wax issue above... I use it very sparingly, and found no need to 'wax the wheel' for each knife. If I see wax on the wheel, and/or wax is showing up on the knife I'm sharpening, I've found that to be more than enough on the wheel. When I reapply, I just rub a little on the wheel with it off... I think doing it while running adds too much.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes, done that a couple of times. Even used a big coarse file. Never got a good re-grit though.
 
kelbro said:
Thanks. Yes, done that a couple of times. Even used a big coarse file. Never got a good re-grit though.
Click to expand...

The first time I regritted a wheel, is when I learned that it was probably just too much wax. Once some of the wax came off, the grit kept cutting whatever I used to try and remove it. I finally used a XXC DMT, (worked but I don't recommend it), to knock down the abrasive enough so I could get it off.

2nd time, after a lot of use... it was clear the abrasive was no longer cutting. In this case, it took very little effort to remove the grit/glue and get back to the paper wheel. That regrit (both with Elmer's glue btw), is what is still in use.

So, what I think anyways, is light wax will keep the wheel cutting, and if wax buildup isn't the issue, when the actual grit is no longer working, removing that layer is not that hard. But removing grit that is still cutting is more difficult.

(Hope that makes sense).
 
I have some stout wood glue that I may try next time. My problem seems to be the bond to the wheel itself. The abrasive is gone. The wheel is really hard and sandpaper seems to burn it more than abrade it. I've never been able to get down to 'tan' paper.

Just got the third elmers coat on (over the grit) and will let it set up for a while. 120° in my garage right now so it should get a good cure.
 
Just ordered another gritted wheel. My original lasted a long time and would probably have lasted much longer had I used a lighter touch. Live and learn.

When this one fades again, I will re-grit it with either 220 or 500 and try this new orange Elmers ProBond wood glue that I forgot that I had out there.
 
Does anyone offer sharpening service using the wheels? I Richard used to but I haven't seen him on here in ages.
 
This just came in, and it should be more than enough to coat both a Paper Wheel as well as a Rubber Wheel using the 3-step process.
According to my digital scale it weighs +/- 40 grams.

GEDC9555.jpg
 
Last edited:
me2 said:
Does anyone offer sharpening service using the wheels? I Richard used to but I haven't seen him on here in ages.
Click to expand...

I know that a member on here can sharpen for you. He is in Greenville SC and goes by Razor-Edge-Knives. I have spoken with him several times and I believe he is a good honest man.
I know he has used the wheels but don't know if it is his prefered method. If you can't find him here, look for his phone number in SC or better yet, try Facebook.

Also if you ask richard to get in touch with you on this page, he may contact you.
Best of luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top