Pinky Sting now resolved

M

mick HT

Joined
Mar 27, 2015
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I have a battle saw which is a dream blade but on extended use trashes my little finger, other than wearing gloves what do you guys do to counter this or any modifications. Thank you in advance.
 
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Fusion or Res C handles work for me. I tried an ASHBM and really wanted to love it but it just didn't work out.

Maybe someday we'll see a Fusion Battle Saw. :)
 
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I had the same problem with an ASH-2 and DTBM, I didn't keep them but I think some time with a grinder rounding the pommel might've fixed them up.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
I have a DTBM. Always loved the way it felt in hand, but pinky bite was a real issue for me at first in use. Gloves helped a little. I also did a diy meltdown treatment on the talons with a dremel and sandpaper which helped a little more.

The thing that made the biggest difference for me though was dialing in the grind. I reground the flats so it's a lot thinner behind the edge and then also convexed the edge bevel. The end result is that I don't have to swing as hard and my pinky doesn't get crushed. :thumbup:

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I'm assuming the risk of the regrind though and wouldn't send it in if I experienced a failure, but I've used it pretty hard since then without any issues.
 
I think the end talon where the little finger impacts the radius is too acute may be with the application of duct tape there may bulk it out, like a Kukhri that kind of sweeping bevel.
 
Does anyone know if the ASH-2 and the DTBM have the new, improved SH profile, shared with the ASHBM; or the original SH shape?
 
inkynate said:
I have a DTBM. Always loved the way it felt in hand, but pinky bite was a real issue for me at first in use. Gloves helped a little. I also did a diy meltdown treatment on the talons with a dremel and sandpaper which helped a little more.

The thing that made the biggest difference for me though was dialing in the grind. I reground the flats so it's a lot thinner behind the edge and then also convexed the edge bevel. The end result is that I don't have to swing as hard and my pinky doesn't get crushed. :thumbup:

I'm assuming the risk of the regrind though and wouldn't send it in if I experienced a failure, but I've used it pretty hard since then without any issues.
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That looks really good. How did you grind the flat bevel? I use the HF 1x30 to knock back the thick edge shoulder and improve the geometry, but cannot do a flat grind.
 
resinguy said:
That looks really good. How did you grind the flat bevel? I use the HF 1x30 to knock back the thick edge shoulder and improve the geometry, but cannot do a flat grind.
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Thanks, I did do it with my HF 1x30. I rigged up a drip line that I always use for coolant anytime I grind. The DTBM was tricky, but I just tried to go very slowly and carefully. I also did it in stages where I would take some off, go use it in the field, then take more off until I felt it was where I wanted it, (in addition to taking frequent measurements with calipers).

It doesn't show up in pics well, but the flats are not up to professional standards at all lol. Lots of imperfections in the grind from chatter, etc, but nothing that really effects performance, so I just pressed on.

I've also been curious about the handle. Love the shape personally, but don't have any of the other straight-handled offerings to know how similar it is.
 
mick HT said:
I think the end talon where the little finger impacts the radius is too acute may be with the application of duct tape there may bulk it out, like a Kukhri that kind of sweeping bevel.
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I think you're onto something here...

try the less permanent options first...

you could even use a ranger band with some cotton or cloth packed beneath it to test out your ramp / blend idea...that would be very easy to tweak and undo.
 
I had ASH-1 that gave me a pinky burn (admittedly it wasnt a full time chopper) but once i practiced some, and LOOSENED up my grip a bit on impact (for a lack of a better phrase) It worked out great.
 
Technique definitely plays it's part, starting too high up the handle causes the hand to slip down with the help of inertia , the little finger then impacts the rear beak.
 
I think it's a safe assumption that several Busse models aren't really designed for wood processing. Could the Battle Saw be one of them?
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
I think you're onto something here...

try the less permanent options first...

you could even use a ranger band with some cotton or cloth packed beneath it to test out your ramp / blend idea...that would be very easy to tweak and undo.
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Yes a good temporary, perhaps passing layers of thin cordage though the last hollow fixing and carefully wrapping around the radius may work.
 
CapitalizedLiving said:
I think it's a safe assumption that several Busse models aren't really designed for wood processing. Could the Battle Saw be one of them?
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From the advert on the website it describes how the teeth lend themselves to notching traps and shelter building so I would have thought wood was the intended working material.
 
I hear the same complaint on all straight-handled designs, which I think is because they were intended as combat utility blades. They do chop wood but, saw or no saw, I just don't see how the Battle Saw is going to chop better than a model more specialized for this role.
 
CapitalizedLiving said:
I hear the same complaint on all straight-handled designs, which I think is because they were intended as combat utility blades. They do chop wood but, saw or no saw, I just don't see how the Battle Saw is going to chop better than a model more specialized for this role.
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Yeah I think you hit the nail on the head there, there are better knives for chopping no doubt and I think ultimately I would end up grinding the shape of the fusion handle into it as a permanent fixing, as someone already mentioned may be they will offer it some day.
 
I have not chopped very much with any SH model, but a thought occurs.... think about the snap technique one might use with a machete or a khukri ... you basically grip the forward part of the handle with your thumb and forefinger .. as you bring your arm down to chop you snap the blade down with the wrist. The back fingers have only a loose grip, ergo: no pinky bite.
 
resinguy said:
I have not chopped very much with any SH model, but a thought occurs.... think about the snap technique one might use with a machete or a khukri ... you basically grip the forward part of the handle with your thumb and forefinger .. as you bring your arm down to chop you snap the blade down with the wrist. The back fingers have only a loose grip, ergo: no pinky bite.
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I think you're on to something. I'll try that with my NMFSH tomorrow if I see any dead wood that's up to no good.
 
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