proper edge?

[turdle]

restoring a axe that chopped something it should not have. almost have the chips gone but not sure what i am doing when it comes to a axe edge. here in florida i use a machete for most things and if something bigger is needed out comes the chain saw.

used a marker to along the shoulder of the edge and made some passes with the file. would like a good chopping edge but do not want it to be fragile. also do not know what to do at the ends of the edge.

am i doing something wrong or keep going till sharp?

after:

 

[garry3]

restoring a axe that chopped something it should not have. almost have the chips gone but not sure what i am doing when it comes to a axe edge. here in florida i use a machete for most things and if something bigger is needed out comes the chain saw.

used a marker to along the shoulder of the edge and made some passes with the file. would like a good chopping edge but do not want it to be fragile. also do not know what to do at the ends of the edge.

am i doing something wrong or keep going till sharp?

after:

This thread addresses it and there may be others.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/hatchet-sharpening-angle-degrees.1014568/

 

[SC T100]

A top-down view of the edge and bevel profile would help to answer your questions. Post some up if you can! I say this because you could have either a very obtuse edge currently (not good for chopping) or a thin edge (which could work and you wouldn't need to keep going). We just can't tell from the photos.

 

[Square_peg]

Because of the high centerline of that axe if you hold the same angles across its length you will end up with something like this called a banana grind.

Keep that rolled edge shown on the axe gauge in Garry's link. The actual width of your banana or half banana will depend on how high the centerline is on your axe and the bevel angles you choose.

At the ends of the bevel (heel and toe) I prefer a slightly thicker tougher bevel. The heel and toe of an axe take the most abuse and sacrificing a little cutting efficiency for durability makes sense for how I use an axe.

 

[Agent_H]

Because of the high centerline of that axe if you hold the same angles across its length you will end up with something like this called a banana grind.

Keep that rolled edge shown on the axe gauge in Garry's link. The actual width of your banana or half banana will depend on how high the centerline is on your axe and the bevel angles you choose.

At the ends of the bevel (heel and toe) I prefer a slightly thicker tougher bevel. The heel and toe of an axe take the most abuse and sacrificing a little cutting efficiency for durability makes sense for how I use an axe.

I always like seeing that axe

 

[turdle]

what do you use a edge like this for?

most of the axes i have ever used was on roots and i have no plans to put the axe i am restoring in the dirt. would like to chop down a few trees with though.

 

[Square_peg]

I use an edge like that for clearing trees from hiking trails. I do a lot of volunteer trail maintenance work. Volunteer groups don't use chainsaws because of liability concerns and because combustions engine aren't allowed in wilderness areas.

 

[David Martin]

turd, I use the same edge that was originally on my axe for chopping. Like you left. It is fine for limb work and splitting. I use it some to cut a notch on the back side when felling. Works fine for me and I cut 3 cords of wood (oak) every year. I usually touch it up once or twice during the year. DM

 

[Agent_H]

Older axes typically had thicker, sometime convex cheeks. As an axe is worn down it naturally creeps back to where they start getting thick - hopefully it happens evenly but most likely at the toe.

That is a great grind right there to bit into wood. Square_peg's example picture only shows that one perspective of it. The thickest part of the head is in the middle so it requires the most material to be removed - hence the banana/fanned look. If you saw that axe from a different angle you will probably see that the entire arc up and across the cheek from heel to toe meets up with the shape of the bit to make a uniform edge - similar in thickness/a little less to the original shape that has been worn down. Probably a slight *convex* to the whole thing up to the arc of the bevel.

It's not a uniform depth because that is not the shape of the axe. The ends stop a little short on the toe and heel possibly due to the bit being naturally thinner there to begin with and it helps mitigate wear at those points.

My flat sides do well with uniform grinds. There aren't (for the most part) cheeks to reach up into.

No cheeks:

Cheeks:

Try it sometime with a less-important-to-you axe that needs some work. Spending time doing that will make you think twice about chopping roots though.

Some of the beauty in design of old axes is the presence of those cheeks (Like your Jersey). Yours is not worn enough to maybe warrant an entire reprofile and you know what works for you.

Yours should end up how you want it though. It looks like a nice Jersey as is.