Serious about a good work horse straight razor

I never considered shaving right after honing off the 12k without giving the blade a final strop on both sides (white cloth and leather) first. Is it needed ? I don't know but it has worked for me. Maybe I will try the next time I hone.

That crumbly edge you describe sounds like the 5/8 Twin Works Barber's Use straight razor which I still fiddle with time to time. I keep getting chips that I can actually see and feel as it starts to get sharp when using the hones. I am still at a loss about how to deal with this. Maybe I will try taking even more steel off it, it is hard steel I will give it that.

The swedish razor was baffling because the steel felt springy fresh and had a real good bite. It felt sharp until you tried to shave hair with it. Maybe it did have a crumbling edge so small I couldn't see or feel it but the issue is moot now.
 
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Generally you wouldn't see the chipping, its possible, but not as likely since that would also show the corrosion. your twin works may be over-hard so it might just need a very light touch, but I'm no expert.

Crumbly edges sound exactly like that swede.

Everything I've read about 12k naniwas is that you can shave straight off them. this would also tell you if your stropping is helping or hurting.
 
Today I used cold water to shave.

I have to say it was an experience I enjoyed. I used the Jerry Stark D2 razor with D.R. Harris Arlington shave soap and Body Shop Maca Root Shave Relief. I started with a single pass which was not bad at all but about one or two hours later decided to make it an obsessive three pass shave after which I finished using cold water instead of hot water on my skin.

I have to agree with the concensus that cold water shaving is less likely to irritate your skin. It may also make a closer shave possible because when your pores close it causes the hairs to stand up straight as well as tighening the skin more.

It has also been described as a more tugging sensation shave due to the hair not softing as in a hot water skin prep and actually getting more rigid when exposed to cold water. That may be true but my results were not different than hot water shaving except for the fact that my skin was not as sensitive and I did not experience any irritation. I found that while hot water skin prep made my hairs softer it also made my skin softer and looser therefore more prone to irritation as well as nicks if I am not very careful (very careful is still good regardless.)

The D2 razor shaves fine but is does feel like D2. All my razors except for a possibly defective one will provide great shaves but I have learned and was a bit surprised to find that they feel significantly different when shaving. I have read about this and expected there to be differences in tactile sensations between different straight razors but what I did not count on was despite producing the same general result when shaving was finished the difference in feel with the different razors is far from subtle.


I still have my dilhema, even though I am using one of the best soaps around I generally don't like the after effects of soap on my skin. It did not irritate or grossly injure my skin but soap tends to dry skin. I love wet shaving but I generally don't like the after effects of soap. I have found my skin to look better with more color and sheen when I don't use soap at all. The body oils are irreplacable there is no subsitute. Although I got a nice clean shave my skin tends to look more pale and dry, not extremely dry but certainly drier looking whenever I use soap. To help clarify my perspective I will share the fact that when I shower I do not use soap at all.

I probably just made things worse by ordering Mama Bears aged spice shave soap (a very close copy of Old Spice scent) and Arko shave stick, a very low cost shave stick that smells like a citrus toilet bowl puck but possibly provides a shaving lather with a quality that matches some of the best shaving soap lathers in the world.

I have yet to read about the Arko shave stick irritating anyone but I have heard that the Mama Bear line of shave soaps due to the essential oils they use in a lot of them provide experiences ranging from normal to slight tingling to burning inferno depending of how sensitive the individial using it is to the ingredients. From the reviews I read I give it 50/50 whether someone likes the Mama Bear line of shave soaps or not. This is also compounded by the fact that Mama Bear has a good variety of soaps that use different essential oils and what kind of oils are to be avoided depends on the individual.

I will let you know how Aged Spice turns out as well as the Arko.

I would like a shave cream that provides only the lubrication and glide needed for shaving without the emulsifying (oil disolving) effects of soap.

Okay back to cold water shaving. I think it rocks and I see myself doing it more however I am probably going to wet shave much less to give my skin long breaks from soap which is too bad because I really enjoy wet shaving with a straight.
 
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Another option would be to try oil shaving. Its a bit more of a mess, but it might be worth looking into. I've used shave oil with cartidge and DE, not straight but others have. Lush makes an oil based shave goop as well. the romans used olive oil to shave. (and of course many just wore beards, I can see why!)

As for the razor, I have a hypothesis that a lot of the feel of a razor is how the razor resonates, and different steels ring differently, but its just an idea I have, no testing.

If cold water works best for you, then go for it. if the blade is sharp enough, the hair won't notice, but if your skin does, that's the part that matters.


Pretty cool reading your updates man, keep it up. I hope you don't mind me chiming in with ideas.
 
No I don't mind ideas. I may give oil a try but keep in mind that oil itself is one of the best when is comes to displacing other oils but I have not tried it.
 
I've heard it can help some people's skin keep in balance, but either way, its worth a shot. I think the theory is that it doesn't cause the skin to over-compensate as it doesn't feel dried out. But that's just a guess. I used cromwell and cruthers for a few years and it worked well for me. still use it from time to time when traveling.
 
Cold water shave again using the black plastic scaled Dova Best. Before my shave soap order arrived in the mail I purchased Swedish Dream sea salt soap and Lightfoot's pure pine shaving soap locally at The Fellow Barber. First off just like the goole reviews stated niether of these soaps have a lather that lasts very long. They dry out quicker but this is something I can manage well by wetting and lathering up a portion of my face immediatly before shaving it.

The Swedish Dream (primarily a bathing soap but can be used for shaving) lathered up good enough for my standards and so long as you don't let it dry out it worked. The lather was thick but on the foamy side again it won't last as long as the D.R. Harris Arlington and the lather quality is nowhere as good but I still liked it better, in fact, I can say Swedish Dream is the only soap I actually enjoyed purely as a soap as it left no irritation, did not dry my skin out, and smelled mildly pleasant and unique. It actually left my skin feeling softer I can't recall any other soap like this.

Lightfoots pure pine soap did not lather as good and I found it unremarkable. It caused my skin to be slighty dry but nothing excessive, probably even less dryness than with the D.R. Harris. It was not a bad soap overall, it had a pleasant smell but lathering up requires a bit of patience and elbow grease. It also has a narrow range of how much water you can use, too much water and the lather is all liquid dribbles, too little water and you have the consistancy of a thin lather that is too stiff to shave well with and seems to evaporate quickly.

There was a little glitch. When I brought my Dovo "Best Quality" :rolleyes: budget razor I did so with the understanding that the plastic scales are prone to breaking. It is a well known problem that a simple google search will immediately bring to light. I figured I will handle this razor with extreme gentleness, even cheap scales will last under those conditions right ? :) wrong the tip of the scale on one side where the pivot pin is broke off with absolutely no warning, not even an odd feel, right before my eyes while I was slowly and gently closing it :eek: wow! I didn't know they were that cheap. I deliberately twisted and broke the scales some more after removing them from the Dovo Razor to get a feel for how strong they are. It was not easy those scales were very tough. I think these scales had a weak point/points that make them prone to breaking in that area/areas. There were no washers inside and the blade pivot area on both scales had a roughened portion that I am guessing is to provide some sort of traction to keep the blade from moving too easily. I wonder what methods were used to roughen this area and if it had anything to do with the scale breaking.

Replacement scales are hard to find but I managed to find some olivewood scales at the Superior Shave for about 40 bucks. I don't want to mess with Dovo plastic anymore. I may not use the olive wood scales because during the time I could not find replacements I made some scales myself from pex tubing that I split down the middle (two half circles.) I then went to make belive land and pretended I was mr. Stark forging a blade. I hammered the plastic semicircles flat on a short piece of cut railroad track that I use for a mini anvil. I have to say it takes a lot of hammering to flatten white pex tubing plastic. The tough flexible stuff never did get 100% flat despite about 1/2 hour of hammering, but it did get flat enough to cut scales out of. I used the old scales to trace a template and a huge pair of heavy duty scissors to do all my cutting that I am not supposed to do with scissors (maybe tin snips would have been better.) Drilling holes to put a pivot pin in (in my case a scanvenged cheap quality steel rod that pops out of a 1/8 inch rivet) and a blade tang post was easy enough. I used phospher bronze washers inside for the blade and outside to give my pean job some metal around it. Okay enough of the details in a nut shell centering this blade in those scales before putting the spacer in was a pain with a lot of trial and error. I managed to get it to the point where the blade slides in right next to the scale most of the time other times I have to flex it a little.

For some reason I have become attached to my cheap, crude, effective and really not bad looking work and am having trouble deciding whether to keep this one of a kind Dovo (art pure art) just the way I made it or put the new olive wood scales in. Does anyone know if pex plastic will eventually degrade and break or will it last as long as those other plastic scales from the 1920s.
 
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If pex degrades there will be a lot of really unhappy home owners in a few years. I'd say you're likely quite safe.
 
I have used the Mama Bear aged spice soap with no skin irritation problems at all. The smell was pleasant but on the mild side in my opinion. Lathering up took a little work and the lather was not as thick as the better soaps that are tallow based. This soap uses glycerin however I read somewhere it is not glycering based because the percentage of glycerin used is very small. It was not a bad soap at all. I have so far used it twice.

The turkish soap (Arko) has lived up to it's name in both smell and lather however the lather was thicker and I probably should have added more water. It was not as good as the Arlington as the lather's thickness made my shaving a little more gummy however I will need time to judge this one as I think it may have been me not adding enough water.

The olive wood scales arrived and they appear to be too short for my Dovo 6/8 unless I file the back spacer which would require a very thin file because they came pre peaned. It's set up so that you have to drill the blade pivot pin hole in the scales, install the blade with pivot pin, and pean it. The scales are about 1/4 inch shorter than the Dovo 6/8 stock scales. I will be keeping the Dovo as it is for now. Most of my smaller straights have plastic handles so a spare set of scales may not be a bad idea to have on hand just in case any of them break.
 
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Ok my quest for a "couple" of good quality "all you ever need" type of straight razors has turned into an obsession. I have just restored 3 vintage straights. A Magnetic Razor Co made by D Perez in Soligen $9.95, a #900 Torry Razor $9.95 also from same junk store, and a nice Case Temperite "made in USA" circa 1955-1962 $24.00 ebay it needed considerate scale work but the blade is in great condition a couple of rust pitting spots on top of spine easily sanded to my satisfaction but rest of blade almost perfect no rust and it actually came to me sharp I only stropped it I will test shave it when my hairs grow back.

I also have one Russian Stiz circa 1966 that looks like it shouldn't need anything but maybe honing and stropping on the way. I did get a shave ready Wright and Wilhelmy Clean Clipper with a soligen blade that is probably made by Boker sometime before buying the 4 I just mentioned it's also a good shaver.

I have shaved with all of them except for the Case (soon to be remedied) and they did well. I find honing is not the hard part, aligning the scales can be. The grind on my D Perez seems even on both sides but the whole front shaving part is tilted (canted) slightly to the side of it's tang. It does not appear to be twisted anywhere and does not effect shaving, stropping or honing at all. The blade when closing is almost touching one side of the scale and will touch if you put very slight pressure in that direction. I close it carefully guiding the blade (perfection eludes me) The original black plastic scale broke, guess where, yes, at the tip of one side just like my Dovo and the blade was jammed stuck into the scales (now I know why) so I used the spare olive wood scales which are put together great by the way but there is nothing that can be done for a blade canted sideways of the tang so a less than perfect fit with a great shaver is what I settled for.

I also purchased a 15X oupe I have to say the things you can spot with that on the blade is a great aid for rebeveling and honing. Using the loupe I noticed right off that the bevels on the Jerry Stark Razor look to be the most symetrical out of all the ones I have. I was suprised to see that on something hand ground.

Off the top of my head what is that 11 straight razors in total a far cry from my origal goal of having just of couple.

Oh and I did try shaving off the Naniwa 12K grit with the D Perez after honing and it worked but I did not like it and resorted to the strop which made for a better shave but as far as I am concerned it's too early to make a jugement.
 
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That sounds about right. I was at an antique show this weekend and had to walk away from a bunch of really nice pieces. The the best of my knowledge the off-set pinning is on purpose to help give the blade some retention when closed or at the full open position. but it can over-stress the scales as you have found. Some guys do washers and micro-fasteners to get the tension right, others just work with whats there. The design is less of a handle, and more of an attached blade cover, so the tolerance is quite large, especially when you come from a high-end folder background.

Some of the old master blade grinders were very skilled, it was a craftsman's job. And the level of polish that they could attain without our modern tools, amazing.
 
I got to use a couple of newly aquirred razors.
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That Hart Steel square point blued blade made for Baxters of California.
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First off not much to say about looks even more so for this one since it is all black with those synthetic black scales (I have read they are also prone to breaking.) It's a quarter hollow 6/8 so they say but it does look more like a 7/8 to me but that could just be due to visual perception sorry I did not mearure it (yet?.)

Like the Jerry Stark this one has a pivot pin that you can tighten however it is very prone to comming loose more so than the Jerry Stark.

I do not find the balance anything to write home about and can't understand how anyone can think these are perfectly balanced in fact I find it chunky, clunky, and heavy. Despite that it is not an awkward shaver and it provides a fine smooth, precise shave. If Hart Razors are made to look like utilitarian tools the one I have is one of the most utilitarian looking ones made by Hart. It is also an excellent useful shaver. This is certainly a users razor. One gripe I have is Hart Steel hones with tape on the spine.

That is not my preference as I belive straight razors have evolved over a few hundred years and are well thought out. Being able to lay a blade flat on a hone to have even wear between spine and edge without making the edge thicker over time is part of a straight razors design. It also makes honing and stropping easier for the layman as the spine is the angle guide and not various qualities and thicknesses of tape made for taping things. Giving that up to maintain a pretty looking spine is a step backwards not an evolution of design. That being said the Hart I have performs quite well.


And now without further adue, a precious little gem, the highly desired pinnacle of aesthetics, symetry, and elegance, this little jewel

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THE GOLD DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAALAR (Gold Dollar) MODEL 66 PROUDLY MADE IN THE PEOPLES REPLUBLIC OF CHINA
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Obviously the above is a joke. This thing looks like it was formed in a mold made out of bubble gum shaped by a pre-school child. Warped tang, crooked half impressioned jimping on the tang (really hideous jimping.) The cheap toyish (as in cheap quality toy) plastic scales flex when you open it due to the warped tang. Unavoidable uneven hone wear needed to correct it's bad bevel. Looking at the grind profile from the front middle of the toe back reminds me of the leaning tower of pisa, no let me correct that, the proper word is deformed, delopitated, for some reason bent bubble gum seems to pop into my mind when looking at it's profile. Cheap, crude, it makes the Hart Steel look like a Rolls Royce, you get the picture I think.

These little treasures can be purchased for as little as $3.95 on the bay. They are as common as potatoe chips and stimulate a craving for more. I would not recommend buying them unfinished and I purchased mine from someone that resets the bevel from scratch before fully honing them shave ready and that cost me $15.00 (total shipped) instead of $3.95.

One look and I know these things may need massive work if you buy them from the factory. Even though mine was repaired and shave ready.

Here is the punch line these (at least mine) Gold Dollars will shave just as good as my best razors when properly repaired, honed, and stropped. Whatever type of steel they use it seems to be quite suitable for straight razor shaving. I kind of pity the guy who toils with these to sell them getting only about $11.00 for his troubles but I have to say the one I have is one smooth superb shaver despite it's hideously crude aesthetics (looks) when viewed up close.

Only time will tell if the bevel will hold up to many years of honing. I think it will, but some, er ah most? of these deformities may be there to stay for generations to come.

If you want nothing more, and I mean nothing more, than a shaver, this no frills product may be for you.

I found my shaving experiences with a Gold Dollar 66 to be a fascinating experience as to how something like it can shave so well. I have about 3 shaves and stroppings with it so far it works fine. I wonder how many times the scales will flex before they break. Who knows.

Ok to be fair the Gold Dollar 66 looks good from a distance and the blade has a good polish the masks most of it's flaws it's when you take a close critical look that the flaws are obvious.


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Jerry Stark D2 7/8, 2 1/2 inch blade with pointy spanish points on both ends
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Yes Again I have been using this thing for a while and was able to skip a few honings because this holds an edge longer (it is D2 after all.) There is a drawback since it loses it's keeness slowly and gradually you can easily get adjusted to the dull edge and be unaware that it is time to strop until you use another razor that is shave ready.
That is what happened. I went straight to the Naniwa 12K, then 100 strops on the white compound loaded side of the strop followed by about 40 strops on the leather.

Problem solved a 3 pass shave wiped my face clean of 2 days growth in fact it was one of the closest shaves I have had in a while.

This is not a beginers razor despite being used by a beginer like me but I find it one of the most capable and practicle in my straght razor collection. Those pointy spanish points are great for getting into small places under my nose and chin for precision work as well as the mustache. As long as you keep your eyes on those points (I DO!) and take your time you will be fine and able to appreciate it's advantages. This is probably my best straight razor.

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Russian Stiz circa 1966 with Russian space program insignia on handle
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Simple, no frills, and very well made. Fit and finish is excellent despite its plain look. Overall light weight and very well balanced. The steel is Russian as far as I know. The grinds were very symetricral and it was easy to hone. The shave quality is comparible to my better german vintage blades. The price is an absolute bargain shipped straight from Ukraine. I have heard the pre 1970s vintage and before are the better ones.


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Vintage Case made Temperite circa 1950s to 1960s
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A great American made high quality straight razor. The blade is springy hard and shaves well. This looks beautiful with it's amber tinted clear see through scales that look like lexan plastic but I really don't know what kind of plastic it is. It had no cracks and did not break when I did work on them or while peening the blade pin. What it did do was shrink so much over time that I actually thought someone replaced the original scales with the wrong size scales.

I had to remove the scale wedge to shorten it and drill a couple of holes to pin it back in because the razor would not fold into the closed position due to a large portion of the blade tip hitting the wedge all the way up to the wedge pin. I also had to file half of the blade stop pin spacer to allow the razors tail to clear it when opening the blade to the shaving position. I then had to epoxy the spacer to keep it from spinning into a position that would block the tail again.

I never knew plastic could shrink that much. It is as much eye candy (good looking) as it is a good shaver (a very good shaver) now that all is done. I am so glad I did not have to trash those lovely scales. Now hopefully they have finished shrinking and will be durable enough to last a long time. We will have to wait and see.
 
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Today is a special day for me. I just learned how to sharpen a warped blade. Not one that is warped at the spine but at the bottom edge itself. This unlike the spine cannot be corrected in fact I removed quite a bit of metal from this blade trying to do so, not to mention the tip had this tiny chip in the edge that did not want to go away. I got sick of wishing this chip away and just ground the edge flat until the chip was gone and rehoned the bevel. Now it has a somewhat slight tilted smile towards the tip.

The razor was an old Torrey. When I finally conceded that correcting it was not an option I sharpened it according to instructions on sharpening a warped blade (rocking motion) and to my surprise was able to give it a great edge that gave me a great looking one pass shave with no trouble.

I probably should have given up trying to make this a lay flat on the hone perfect razor and gone this route a long time and lots of metal ago. It does not look as pretty anymore (it never really did it was quite rusty when I got it) but I did manage to learn to get it to shave good. Maybe next time if I get another opportunity I can preserve the pretty looks of another rusty razor (once the rust is gone) as well as get it shave ready.

Moral of the story your razor will sharpen easier and get a keen edge easier if the bevel (spine to edge) lays perfectly flat on the hone but sometimes you just have to rock and roll to get it done right.
 
6/29/16 i just got a Filarmonica Novodur used but mint yesterday from the bay delivered to me from Sweden and I have to say it lives up to all the hype and made easy work of my one pass with the grain shave. The scales however are very thin black plastic and i hope they don't break as easily as my much thicker Dovo plastic scales. I happen to love the looks of the scales and wish it were one of the light blue ones know to come with some Filarmonicas that most people love to hate but this looks good too.
 
Fun With a Cotiicule

Today is the first time I went all out with a coticule. I used my Jerry Stark forged smile edge 7/8 (52100 steel) about a week ago and had a couple of knicks and irritation. I was not too happy although it generally did the job.

Today I ran it across the Naniwa 12k after seeing reflexions in the middle portion of the smile edge using my fluorescent magnifying glass. It did not get it out and I was not impressed and thought maybe the 12k is not aggressive enough to do the job so I decided to give my arkansas coticule a full run. The reflection still did not leave and then I used a 30 power loupe to examine the edge which was flawless under the higher magnification. I guess the reflection was irrelevant but I thought the edge after using the coticule felt duller.

To make a long story short I tested it by shaving and was shocked that it shaved quite well. I had no nicks or irritation and despite the edge feeling duller the shave went smoothly. It did not shave any better than the more aggressive feeling edge I get of the norton water stones and nanniwa but it was certainly a much more soothing experience.

I really don't understand how a stone that throws so much slurry in front of the edge produces an edge this effective and soothing. There is something to be said about Cuticule sharpening. It produced an effective edge that was different definitely different and from my point of view provided a less irritating shave with an edge that felt less than optimal to an amateur like me but was obviously quite good at removing facial hair regardless.

I will most likely use that coticule more often.
 
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I have been following this thread and DAGNABBIT! It makes me wanna try straight razor shaving. Thnks for this thread and all the info. You have provided... I,m not yet rdy to go straight W a straight razor but if i do..The japanese style ones(non folding) appeal to me.
 
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