Show Your Vintage Schrade Scrimshaw Designs by F. Giorgianni

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I'll really appreciate seeing pics of SC500 Moose/Mallards/Beavers/Rams. Not successfull at this moment ...
 
Laynerb, That is a great looking bunch of scrims you have. Boxes, paperwork and sheaths are almost never found on the bay. As was stated that is the best place to determine the value of your knives. Thank you for posting the pictures and I know it isn't easy but now it will be easier.
 
Thank you very much edbeau qiestion for you because of the age and smell of them im asuming they have never been handled or even removed from the boxes the little baggies the knives were in the oil has seemef to settle to one side and almost created a sticky substance on the one side is there anything i can soak them in or clean them with to remove the stickyness... I know some of them have that green crusty build up on parts of them i the only thing i have done was take them out of the little bags because i heard plastic is not good for them to be in the down fall is they probably been in the little bags since 79ish any help would be great
 
For the sticky stuff WD-40 should work but after a little oil on the pivot will be needed. Brasso will get the green stuff off the brass. Other people will let you know what to put on the brass to keep the growth of the green stuff down to a minimum. Everyone has their favorite.
 
Some suggestions. Most of the general purpose gun cleaning solvents and oils work good, if you have them on hand. Stay away from the harsh bore cleaners though. Read the labels, most, but not all, are compatable with wood stock finishes and such. Breakfree CLP solvent/oil in one, may be the best and they claim it leaves a lubricating protective coating behind. It's what I use. The back springs and pivot are all you need to think about for rust on your knives. As long as the stainless blades are wiped off good with a dry rag (FINGERPRINTS) and kept in a dry place, there is little to worry about them. And you don't want to damage the blade etch with solvents or oils. As edbeau said, Brasso is a good oxidation remover and I have found it to be a good overall cleaner for the outside of a knife. It doesn't harm the scrimshaw and cleans and polishes the handle, delren or bone, if not rubbed too aggressively. Brasso has very mild abrasives in it. If you get some of the dry Brasso in cracks and crevices it will come right out with a soft toothbrush. I sometimes smear a little oil on the back springs and wipe off the excess before storing. Be aware that oil will stain the trays that your knives reside in, and that's not good. Very little oil is needed for the pivot and excess oil will leak out. I have recently started using a great product called Blue Magic that I get at the auto parts store, 7 or 8 bucks a jar. Schrade used to stock their knife care kits with it. It is an ammonia based paste used for cleaning mag wheels, chrome and such. They claim it leaves a silicone barrier against oxidation behind and it polishes metal better than anything I've ever tried. It might be worth it for your project if you have something else on your car or something to polish too so as to use up the $8 jar. Using it just on my knife collection, a jar of it will probably last me years. Wipe everything down good with a dry cotton rag before storing. Fingerprints, with their corrosive nature, can last forever if left to do their diabolical work on metal and leather. Not a bad idea to wash your hands before starting, I do. I'm not an expert but I am more than a little obsessive about rust and tarnish and protecting my collection. Hope this helps and you didn't fall asleep. :rolleyes:
 
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Laynerb, try isopropyl alcohol first, it's a decent solvent that shouldn't affect the scrimshaw, although I'd try it on a small spot to be sure. You can put it in a can and brush it on liberally with a soft paint brush which won't scratch. it'll evaporate quickly and won't leave a residue. If you polish the bolsters with anything try to keep the compound off the delrin. It'll likely get quite dark through polishing and will be absorbed to a slight degree by the plastic. Needless to say it's VERY difficult to get out once this happens.

Eric
 
Pretty excited about these...on their way from the "bay".

IXL Scrimshaws
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Seller's pic
 
Saddlebum said:
Hey, glad you got 'em SAK. Real scrimshaw!
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Thank you! I've looking at this set for years, could never afford them till that pair popped up...was lucky to get them. Lightly used with no box but at a great price!.
 
Thanks Ed! I've been doing the research on these and...wow! I had no idea these were done by hand. Thought it was lasered or something.

It was Saddlebum's "real scrimshaw" statement that got me looking! :thumbup:
 
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I guess "real scrimshaw", for the purest, would have to be hand carved in ivory. Your knives are bone and hand scrimed and not stamped. I'm no expert on those or anything, I've read descriptions about them.
 
Hey, they are as close as I'll ever get! :D Thanks for the info!! :thumbup:
 
I think our beloved federal government makes people that own ivory or tusks of any kind, 'disappear', nowadays........
 
Thank you!! Part of Schrade's "Heralds of the Sea" collection by IXL George Wostenholm in Sheffield.
 
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