Strange find when taking apart my 4 max

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May 1, 2016
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Decided to take down my 4 max today for a clean and just see what's making her tick as i do on all my knives. Strange though, i noticed the pivot bolt has a D shaped end like most Cold Steel folders that usually slot into a corresponding D shape handle or liner cutout....but as you can see here, there is no corresponding D shape cutout in the titanium liner, nor is there one in the G10 handle scale, both holes that the pivot connect through are perfectly round. Can anyone else confirm this on theirs? Cheers
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The g10 has the d cut.
Does your have Teflon washers ? Mine was missing. Waiting for cold steel to send me some.
Top right you can see the D hole
1zf0olh.jpg
 
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The g10 has the d cut.
Does your have Teflon washers ? Mine was missing. Waiting for cold steel to send me some.
Top right you can see the D hole
1zf0olh.jpg

Hi mate, mine has no D cut in the G10 as you can see in the photo below, both G10 sides and both liners have completely round holes. Mine only has PB washers no teflon.
 
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The 4 max is bad news for OCD people lol. I spent awhile fixing mine.
Well, the pivot is quite tight against everything so it's not really necessary to have. I suppose you can complain to their warranty.
Hmm weird no Teflon either ? I wonder how many people are missing the teflons.
 
The 4 max is bad news for OCD people lol. I spent awhile fixing mine.
Well, the pivot is quite tight against everything so it's not really necessary to have. I suppose you can complain to their warranty.
Hmm weird no Teflon either ? I wonder how many people are missing the teflons.
Yeah it's frustrating because overall the 4max is close to a proper AD-10 for a fraction of the cost, and it's a brilliant blade that actually cuts like hell for such an overbuilt design. And that's true, the tolerances for the pivot holes in the scales are insanely tight, tighter even than my Sebenza. Like you said, it's just not good for OCD knife folks. I wonder if their warranty would swap the scale for me for one with a D cut out, you think?
 
I don't know. Personally I would just leave it but it's your knife. It wouldn't hurt to ask I guess.
 
looks like the gen fivers have a D hole in the G10100_6618.JPG
 
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It has to have been several different mfg's. The quality has fluctuated a lot. The fit, finish, and function is great on these last USA made 4 Max's
 
I had to snag a US made one before they are all gone. Fingers crossed it won't have to go back for adjusting.
 
Looks like im the only one who has no D cut in my USA made one. Going to pick up one of these new italian made ones in grey g10 shortly also.
 
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Checked mine and it has the D, but I was surprised at the lack of adjustment on the pivot screw. Seems like either the screw is loose, or the blade is too tight...there isn't any in between. When I went to unscrew it to check the D cutout, it wasn't tight at all, so when I put it back in I tightened it a bit more, and the blade would barely move. All the other CS folders I've had seem to have a wider range of tightness so you can fine tune it. Some Loctite seems in order on this one...
 
Checked mine and it has the D, but I was surprised at the lack of adjustment on the pivot screw. Seems like either the screw is loose, or the blade is too tight...there isn't any in between. When I went to unscrew it to check the D cutout, it wasn't tight at all, so when I put it back in I tightened it a bit more, and the blade would barely move. All the other CS folders I've had seem to have a wider range of tightness so you can fine tune it. Some Loctite seems in order on this one...

Yep, this is due to how insanely tight the fit is. The holes for the titanium scales, pivot and stop pins etc. are such a tight fit that once you tighten the pivot it is slowly compressing it all together a bit more and there is no free movement. You'll notice that after you tighten it down that you can even remove the pivot screw and everything stays tightly fit together. It sort of stays put depending on how tight you did the pivot. I guess it's both a good thing and an annoying thing since you have to tune it a bit. But in time i imagine it'll slowly free up a bit after you remove the scales a few times.
I've decided to look at it as a positive thing, since I'd rather have the tight tolerances than any slop in the pivot or pins.
 
Checked mine and it has the D, but I was surprised at the lack of adjustment on the pivot screw. Seems like either the screw is loose, or the blade is too tight...there isn't any in between. When I went to unscrew it to check the D cutout, it wasn't tight at all, so when I put it back in I tightened it a bit more, and the blade would barely move. All the other CS folders I've had seem to have a wider range of tightness so you can fine tune it. Some Loctite seems in order on this one...
Also had the same experience which is why I'm going to wait for my Teflon washers before using it again. Maybe I can tighten it tighter without hindering the blade drop.
 
How'd you guys get everything pryed apart without boogering up the handles & liners?...my handles and liners feel like they're cemented with red loctite! :eek:

They're not loctited...they just feel that way, it's the extreme tolerances you guys keep referencing-- I also count that a sign of quality and overall a very good thing!

Would one of you guys post a quality DIY w/pics on how to break down the 4Max step by step?

If anyone takes me up on it I'll do a Cold Steel GAW in this subforum!

And bonus points will be awarded if anyone can post up an equally good diy takedown on a custom AD10!!!
 
How'd you guys get everything pryed apart without boogering up the handles & liners?...my handles and liners feel like they're cemented with red loctite! :eek:

They're not loctited...they just feel that way, it's the extreme tolerances you guys keep referencing-- I also count that a sign of quality and overall a very good thing!

Would one of you guys post a quality DIY w/pics on how to break down the 4Max step by step?

If anyone takes me up on it I'll do a Cold Steel GAW in this subforum!

And bonus points will be awarded if anyone can post up an equally good diy takedown on a custom AD10!!!
Hey mate,

Yep the tolerances are insanely tight on the liners, scale and pivot etc. i found the best way to get it apart WITHOUT damaging, warping or scratching the liners, is to use something softer than them for the light prying. But when i say prying i dont mean hard prying, i mean small amounts of pressure ALTERNATING sides and angles so it lifts evenly from all corners. If you try to pry one side you will wedge it against the pins and screw sleeves and it will be even more stuck. A slow, even light pry with a piece of soft pine, like a dowel that you can flatten to fit inside the handle works very well. I used a piece of G10 i had laying around that was nice and smooth on the edges, it fit perfectly inside the handle and i was able to slowly get it off without scuffing anything at all. PS - Sorry i would post a full breakdown video for you but i've recently just sold this 4 max as i have another couple coming in the mail, i don't think it would be fair for me to tamper with it now that the new owner has purchased.
 
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