Strange find when taking apart my 4 max

Hey mate,

... PS - Sorry i would post a full breakdown video for you but i've recently just sold this 4 max as i have another couple coming in the mail, i don't think it would be fair for me to tamper with it now that the new owner has purchased.

No, I don't blame you, plus you'd be in one hell of a jam if something went wrong! :eek:

Yeah, I even tried a pine shim, but it wasn't up to the task...your flattened wood dowel sounds promising, thanks for the tip...

The GAW offer still stands for anyone willing to pick up the GAUNTLET!!!
 
No, I don't blame you, plus you'd be in one hell of a jam if something went wrong! :eek:

Yeah, I even tried a pine shim, but it wasn't up to the task...your flattened wood dowel sounds promising, thanks for the tip...

The GAW offer still stands for anyone willing to pick up the GAUNTLET!!!
Yep, sure would.

Using a flat piece of something works well, especially if it's around an inch wide, but flat so it fits inside the handle. Once inside the handle, don't pry but twist the lever from side to side so the edges of the prying tool tap side to side evenly. Just do this at opposite ends of the scales and also at the top of the knife where you can see some scales over hanging near the blade tang. She'll come off, it's a very slow process tho, it barely moves the tolerances are that tight :)
 
I didn't take mine fully apart...after I removed the pivot screw I couldn't tell for sure if it had the D cutout, so then I removed the handle scale. I started at the pocket clip end and got a finger nail under the scale, and then worked my way around until I could lift it off.
 
I didn't take mine fully apart...after I removed the pivot screw I couldn't tell for sure if it had the D cutout, so then I removed the handle scale. I started at the pocket clip end and got a finger nail under the scale, and then worked my way around until I could lift it off.
Were you able to see if yours had Teflon washers in addition to the bronze washers ?
I received my parts from cold steel and it's just another set of bronze washers.
So I'm wondering if
1. Did they have a communication error and actually the 4 max doesn't have Teflon washers.
Or
2. Parts department shipped me the wrong stuff.
 
I did not. Not sure if it is relavent, but the Spectre that I posted about only had teflon washers, but not sure what is "correct" on those. Based on the stories I've heard about washers (missing, teflon vs brass sequence, etc), seems like there is either no standard, or they have very sloppy manufacturing/QC.
 
Yeah I'm not so sure. It's my belief that they should have both the bronze and Teflon.
I checked demko knives Facebook and I can see the Teflon washers used on his customs in pics. Ok that not definitive proof lol

Seriously I am a fool. I am the fool. No one to blame but myself. I am tired.
 
Yeah it's a bit strange. My 4 max had bronze only, new SR1 has only teflon, Demko customs with only teflon. Seems like it's a mixed bag. I'm not too fussed tho, they both work fine, i mostly get annoyed if there are any structural or hardware issues.
 
Thanks for your feedback. It's possible it never existed. I'll report back if I hear anything different.

Edit:
The reason I'm interested in the Teflon is because well CS said it's supposed to have and also I have the pivot locked down to where there is no blade play but there is a bit wiggle of the blade when closed. I'm curious if using Teflon would allow me retain the blade drop and being able to tighten the pivot a bit more to remove that blade wiggle on the closed position.
 
who has an italian one? hows it compare to the american made ones? what generation are we calling the Italian made one? thanks y'all.
 
^what generation are we calling the italian ones.....?
 
Just got my ship notice from GPK for my Italian MAX. :thumbsup: If nobody beats me to it, I'll pull the pivot screw when it gets here and see if there's a D in the G-10 (or liner).
 
Okay, just taking the pivot screw out, I'm not seeing a D in the G10. I haven't taken the knife down yet, so I don't know if the liner is keyed to the pivot or not. Will report back when I've had the chance to disassemble. :thumbsup:
 
Okay, just taking the pivot screw out, I'm not seeing a D in the G10. I haven't taken the knife down yet, so I don't know if the liner is keyed to the pivot or not. Will report back when I've had the chance to disassemble. :thumbsup:
Thanks, very keen to find out if there is a D cut in the liners at least. So weird, it should be standard on them since it is on pretty much every other CS knife.
 
Weird. I finally took it apart (don't do this! :D), and I've never seen the like of what's inside at the pivot. It looks like a round hole when you just take the pivot screw out, but upon taking it apart, I found that the inside of the hole is D shaped and also has a piece of metal inlet into the G10 to act as a pivot key. Pretty cool setup. :thumbsup:

max pivot.jpg
 
That is weird. It's gotta be a fix. I think it was made with a round hole and the metal insert was used to create a flat area. It's actually a brilliant idea. I can't think of any other way you could change a round hole to a D hole.
 
Weird. I finally took it apart (don't do this! :D), and I've never seen the like of what's inside at the pivot. It looks like a round hole when you just take the pivot screw out, but upon taking it apart, I found that the inside of the hole is D shaped and also has a piece of metal inlet into the G10 to act as a pivot key. Pretty cool setup. :thumbsup:

View attachment 748609
Very strange design choice. Can you post a pic of the pivot slotting into that? It doesnt seem like the flat bar that creates the D would sit back in the circle enough for a flat spot on a pivot to rest against. Bit then again it could be just the angle the photo is taken from. Any pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks mate.
 
Unfortunately, I already put it back together, and I don't think I want to go through that again. :D The pic is a bit deceiving. The flat spot on the pivot doesn't actually touch the little metal insert, but it's so close that it would definitely hit it before turning more than a fraction of a millimeter in either direction. I'll remove the pivot screw again later on, back the pivot out of the G10 a bit, and see if I can get a pic of the fit between the pivot and metal insert from that side. :thumbsup:
 
It's actually good to use metal insert instead of creating the D on G10 itself. For people who use red locktite(like me) it's a common thing to shear through the D cut on the G-10 or FRN making it disassembly impossible. It wasn't an issue with thicker G-10 but definitely an issue with thinner model such as Lawman.
Or maybe it's really just an afterthought after they already drilled a round hole there...
 
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