Swivel knife cutting depth question

[High Standard]

Is there a general rule of thumb with the depth one would cut with the swivel knife. Are the cuts 1/4 or 1/2 the thickness of the leather used. Just wondering what the optimal depth would be for beveling the cuts. Thanks.

 

[Horsewright]

Most folks would tell ya about half. Thats always worked for me. Particularly on something thats gonna get used : belt, holster, sheath etc. Gives ya extra depth to take use.

 

[High Standard]

Thanks Dave. It's time for me to wreck some leather with my new swivel knife.

 

[ANovinc]

Thanks Dave. It's time for me to wreck some leather with my new swivel knife.

Looking forward to seeing what you do.

 

[sheathmaker]

My answer here is based on my personal experience and not intended to the the "end all" to the situation.

Depth of cut is dependent on several factors, but most important is the end use of the item and how much wear and tear and flexing it will receive.

The top grain of leather has about 70% or so of the tensile strength so if you cut through the top grain (epidermis) layer you will start to compromise that strength. Therefore if you are carving in an area that is relatively flat and open and not subject to flexing you probably can cut through the top grain and not see any drastic results and it should offer deeper and more definitive tooling.

If you are carving in a area that will be flexed quit a bit (i.e. the fold area of a pouch sheath) the the depth of cut should be reduced by about 50% at least, otherwise it will tend to split when flexed. The cut will actually open up and believe me it does not heal with time.

So the short answer to your question is to cut just deep enough to accomplish your goal wherever that goal may be.

Good Luck!

Paul

 

[High Standard]

Thanks Amy. I hope down the road I can make something that is somewhat worthy to post.

 

[High Standard]

My answer here is based on my personal experience and not intended to the the "end all" to the situation.

Depth of cut is dependent on several factors, but most important is the end use of the item and how much wear and tear and flexing it will receive.

The top grain of leather has about 70% or so of the tensile strength so if you cut through the top grain (epidermis) layer you will start to compromise that strength. Therefore if you are carving in an area that is relatively flat and open and not subject to flexing you probably can cut through the top grain and not see any drastic results and it should offer deeper and more definitive tooling.

If you are carving in a area that will be flexed quit a bit (i.e. the fold area of a pouch sheath) the the depth of cut should be reduced by about 50% at least, otherwise it will tend to split when flexed. The cut will actually open up and believe me it does not heal with time.

So the short answer to your question is to cut just deep enough to accomplish your goal wherever that goal may be.

Good Luck!

Paul

Paul, Thank you once again on your detailed explanation and guidance. I understand what you're saying, and will keep that in mind when working on certain areas of each project. Nothing looks worse than a split or cut in a piece of leather.

 

[Horsewright]

Nuther thought too. I really won't carve anything but 8-10oz Wickett and Craig any more. It just seems like the heavier leather carves and holds the carving better. Also gives ya the strength as Paul mentioned which is very important. And the durability too. Nothing like carving flattening out with use, it sucks.

 

[sheathmaker]

Dave, You made me think of another spot where a light hand and caution is necessary. Any top grain split leathers (wallets, and smaller items, and inlaid top pieces) are all generally about 2/3 Oz and they require a light touch with the old swivel knife and well as finess with the stamps.

Paul

 

[High Standard]

Nuther thought too. I really won't carve anything but 8-10oz Wickett and Craig any more. It just seems like the heavier leather carves and holds the carving better. Also gives ya the strength as Paul mentioned which is very important. And the durability too. Nothing like carving flattening out with use, it sucks.

Thanks Dave. I currently have 8-9 oz veg tan. That's what I planned on using.

 

[Horsewright]

Here''s what well used flower carving can look like with quality leather and the proper depth of swivel cuts. This sheath belongs to a good friend Janene. She is a professional horse trainer, ropes with us (she and Nichole have two big competitions coming up this year) and helps on the ranch. This sheath has been worn continuously, worn and exposed to all kinds of abrasion and pressure etc. From saddling horses, doing groundwork on the ranch, putting the ice chest in the back of the truck, just life. One of the competitions that they will be in requires the competitors to do their own groundwork. We've been training the ladies up every weekend. Point is that carving done well can be used and be durable.

Janene and Nichole helping to take down a big heifer:

 

[High Standard]

Thanks Dave. Hat's off to those women for getting their hands dirty.