The "Ask Nathan a question" thread

I have video of industry standard 3V and D3V side by side (there is a significant difference that shows well in video), but no video of D3V and the immediate predecessor. It probably wouldn't make a very interesting video, the difference is visible, but less dramatic and would be difficult to see on screen. These tweaks have been incremental improvements over time.

Thanks Nathan, I've just been using my Pre-Delta and it works great. Have yet to play with the D3V version yet and I appreciate knowing that both heat treats will hold up to any task that I will ever use them for. I look forward to picking up one of your EDCs and LCs.
 
Hey Nathan just wondering if you are planning to switch out the screws in the new models such as the SK, to make taking the scales on and off more accessible?
 
Nathan, can you give me a brief summary of your D2 vs the D3V? Strengths and weakness, pros vs cons kind of comparison. Thanks
 
Nathan, can you give me a brief summary of your D2 vs the D3V? Strengths and weakness, pros vs cons kind of comparison. Thanks

Not Nathan, but maybe the quote below, from this thread - #400 - might help:

They're both good choices for the kinds of work this pattern is suited to.

If you cut a lot of soft abrasive material like cardboard or media that cuts better with a toothy edge like hide or rope they'll both work well but D2 will work better. It's a great choice for someone who cuts drywall and drywall tape and opens plastic planter pots and sand bags etc.

If you're like me and need a very sharp edge for duburring fuzz from plastic machined parts but also want the edge stability and gross durability to shave burrs from metal parts and scrape out steel chips embedded in aluminum fixtures they'll both work well but Delta 3V will work better. It's a great choice for someone who strips insulation and cuts wire with his knife or carves hardwood or scrapes rust etc. It's also extremely durable and would be the best choice for a knife you have to depend on.

They're both hard, durable, abrasion resistant steels with fantastic edge retention, you really can't go wrong with either for a small every day use cutting tool. If you're hard on your knives or want a larger margin for error go with the Delta 3V. If you're skinning a lot of game and want that toothy edge go with the optimized D2.


Cheers,
C.
 
Not Nathan, but maybe the quote below, from this thread - #400 - might help:

They're both good choices for the kinds of work this pattern is suited to.

If you cut a lot of soft abrasive material like cardboard or media that cuts better with a toothy edge like hide or rope they'll both work well but D2 will work better. It's a great choice for someone who cuts drywall and drywall tape and opens plastic planter pots and sand bags etc.

If you're like me and need a very sharp edge for duburring fuzz from plastic machined parts but also want the edge stability and gross durability to shave burrs from metal parts and scrape out steel chips embedded in aluminum fixtures they'll both work well but Delta 3V will work better. It's a great choice for someone who strips insulation and cuts wire with his knife or carves hardwood or scrapes rust etc. It's also extremely durable and would be the best choice for a knife you have to depend on.

They're both hard, durable, abrasion resistant steels with fantastic edge retention, you really can't go wrong with either for a small every day use cutting tool. If you're hard on your knives or want a larger margin for error go with the Delta 3V. If you're skinning a lot of game and want that toothy edge go with the optimized D2.


Cheers,
C.

Excellent, thanks!
 
Hey Nathan, EDC scale question. Would I be correct in assuming that the Micarta would be grippier than the G10?
 
Nathan,

I notice that in your videos and in the survival knife thread, one of your tests for edge stability is chopping nails or bolts of various sizes and checking for edge damage. Some would argue that this is an abusive test, but I think that there is something cool about a knife that prevails in a metal on metal contest. After all, a $15 knife can skin a deer, but a knife that can cut a $15 knife in half and still skin a deer, well that's a step up :D

My question is this, and it is only a theoretical one...

If you were going to optimize a knife (of a given geometry i.e. you can't just make it thicker) just for chopping through nails, what would you chose for steel type, hardness, etc. I have theory that when metal collides with metal, the hardest metal that does not fracture will win. A hard knife ought to cut metal better than a softer, more ductile, and perhaps tougher metal, until the point where the harder metal fractures. What has been your experience, and how would you optimize and edge just for cutting nails without regard for other concerns?
 
Nathan, when can we expect some photos of the new micarta colors for the EDC? :)
 
I know that the EDCs are built with a slicer build (comparatively speaking), and D2 being able to take advantage of the toothy nature by being so, it was sought-after as much if not more so than the D3V variant.
The above and the video of the D3V on the rooftop led to my question;

If you had to rate your alloys on (recent past, present and in testing), how would you do so?
Categories being:
A) (working) edge holding
B) toughness
C) maintenance required for work done

Say you have 3 alloys (D2, D3V, 4V) you would use 1-3
D2:
A) 2
B) 2
C) 3

D3V
A) 3
B) 1
C) 1

4V
A) 1
B) 3
C) 2

The above is example for reference only. How would You personally rate them against their companions?
 
Nathan, when can we expect some photos of the new micarta colors for the EDC? :)

1.jpg~original
 
I know that the EDCs are built with a slicer build (comparatively speaking), and D2 being able to take advantage of the toothy nature by being so, it was sought-after as much if not more so than the D3V variant.
The above and the video of the D3V on the rooftop led to my question;

If you had to rate your alloys on (recent past, present and in testing), how would you do so?
Categories being:
A) (working) edge holding
B) toughness
C) maintenance required for work done

Say you have 3 alloys (D2, D3V, 4V) you would use 1-3
D2:
A) 2
B) 2
C) 3

D3V
A) 3
B) 1
C) 1

4V
A) 1
B) 3
C) 2

The above is example for reference only. How would You personally rate them against their companions?

It's tough to say which has the best working edge between Delta 3V and optimized D2, they're both good. D3V has better edge stability, but the toothy edge and longer wear in D2 cut longer in less abusive use. I don't have enough experience in 4V to render an opinion yet.

Delta 3V is definitely tougher, but it appears that optimized 4V holds an edge in rough use the best.

Delta 3V is the easiest to sharpen and is nearly stainless, so it is the easiest to maintain.

They are all more durable and have better edge retention that most of the steels that most knife users are familiar with.
 
Do you see alloys like CPM Rex 76, and other highly alloyed mixes being a viable option in the future?
Do you think the difficulty in machining might cause them to be cost prohibitive?

I know it is Very hard (if not impossible) to speculate on materials that you havent used before, especially when they are as varied as steels go. Due to that, I wouldn't expect a solid answer, but more of an estimation.

Where do you feel the ceiling "might be"?
Do you think it would first be seen in cost in machining, or something akin to a cost/benefit ratio and your finding of a "sweet spot" in one or a few alloys?
 
Was wondering if you could snap a quick pic of an unbuffed OD next to one that's buffed.

Thanks.
 
Do you see alloys like CPM Rex 76, and other highly alloyed mixes being a viable option in the future?
Do you think the difficulty in machining might cause them to be cost prohibitive?

I know it is Very hard (if not impossible) to speculate on materials that you havent used before, especially when they are as varied as steels go. Due to that, I wouldn't expect a solid answer, but more of an estimation.

Where do you feel the ceiling "might be"?
Do you think it would first be seen in cost in machining, or something akin to a cost/benefit ratio and your finding of a "sweet spot" in one or a few alloys?

I don't think it's much of an issue of cost benefit ratio on high performance knives so much as finding an alloy and heat treat for that allow that maximizes performance for an application. There is a tendency to say: if some is good, more is better and want to jam as much carbon and alloy and vanadium into the steels and this can ruin them if overdone. It's like making a good soup, too many ingredients and too much salt ruins it. Look at S30V. 4% vanadium? 14% chrome? 1.45% carbon (that's a lot)? Hell, it's only 3/4 iron, it's no wonder it won't hold together in a knife edge. Then look at something like Infi: .3% vanadium, 8% chrome, .6% carbon. He didn't get that the level of performance by packing it full of ingredients, he chose the right alloy, made the right tweaks to it and optimized a heat treat for it. Other steels like 3V start adding some abrasion resistance to the mix at the expense of edge stability so they hold up longer in some applications but not others. Going beyond 3V you can get further gains in abrasion resistance but might start seeing actual edge retention go down due to stability problems in normal use. So finding the "ultimate steel" is always a fun quest but I don't think the answer will be some extreme alloy that's almost unmachinable.

Interesting true story:

A company my shop does work for was modifying a Kevlar fiber cutting machine design used processing jackets in the fiberoptics industry. The carbide blades were good for 10,000-15,000 cuts but were very expensive. I made blades out of D2 with the goal of saving money and we were hoping to see 4,000-6,000 cuts. With optimized D2, by the time we were done with it, we were getting 250,000 cuts from D2 blades. This is an example of the right alloy with the right heat treat outperforming a "super material" by a factor of 20. Finding the ultimate material for that application wasn't a matter of cost/benefit ratio, it was a matter of material selection, engineering and optimization. The fact that it cost less ended up being incidental.

We're working with CPM 4V right now. It has a pretty hard sweet spot and the large amount of well distributed fine carbides actually contribute to a higher compressive yield strength. That and the moderate chrome content help it achieve edge stability you wouldn't think possible on such a high alloy steel (It's about 85% iron) . At HRC 63-64 it will have longer edge retention than 3V in most applications. Surprisingly this includes rough use. We looked at the industry standard HT for it, variations of that and the HT provided by the best HT shop in the industry. We looked at tweaks we've applied to D2 and 3V. We've looked at a lot of stuff and have really done our homework. When we started we had a hard crumbly edge that wore well in cardboard but turned to dust in impact on knots in wood and other use that stress the edge. By the time we were done with it, a thin pattern (our 3" EDC) at HRC 64 can cut a 16D nail at 18 DPS with little damage. I'm not sure that a higher alloy and more difficult to machine material would outperform it.

So, all of that said, I don't think the answer to the "holy grail" is in more extreme alloys, I think it is in finding the right alloy and giving it the right treatment.
 
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