Titanium? JYDII SG2 shocker
- Thread starter STR
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Thanks Steve for all the insight this thread has generated for me and many others. I for one am glad that you started the thread. Its people like you, and speculations like this, that raise questions and progess our hobby in a positive way. Sure sometimes we aren't always 100% correct in everything we think and do, but if nobody raised questions like these we'd just be moving along blindly. I actually learned a lot from this thread about anodizing and chemical reactions. Thats kind of a bummer that anodizing is such a hassle for you, I have been tossing the idea of getting one of my framelocks ano'd for a while now. I definately see how it would be a pain in the groin though.
I do have one question while I'm at it though. How do you press the detent balls out of the frame and are you able to reuse that detent or do you have to press in a new one?
I've always loved these SG2 JYD II's but I've had one problem with the few that I have owned. The hardness difference between the detent ball and the 420j stainless outside of the blade doesn't seem to like to work together very well. On the three that I have owned and used, the detent ball has created a large trough or groove in the blade. Also, after a while the detent ball loses its circular shape and wears down to a flat surface. This has created a very deep rough surface inside the groove on the blade on all of them. In fact it has become so rough that if I do not use lube inside the groove, the opening and closing is severly compromised and feels very gritty. I have combated this issue by polishing the groove with a felt polishing tip on my dremel and some polishing compound. I lightly polish the mating surface and then put the knife back together with a bit of grease inside the groove to lessen the friction. Have you noticed this on any of your JYD's Steve? Or anyone else here? Its a real bother to me and is the only thing that I don't like about these SG2 JYDs. I was thinking that possibly this was the blem on these. Perhaps the heat treat on the detent or blade didn't turn out quite right? Or maybe thats just what happens with the 420j steel that is on the outside of these blades. I've never had this issue on any other folder I've owned. On a few other knives the detent ball has lightly squared off, but never as much as thes JYD's and it has never caused a groove in the blade like this.
I do have one question while I'm at it though. How do you press the detent balls out of the frame and are you able to reuse that detent or do you have to press in a new one?
I've always loved these SG2 JYD II's but I've had one problem with the few that I have owned. The hardness difference between the detent ball and the 420j stainless outside of the blade doesn't seem to like to work together very well. On the three that I have owned and used, the detent ball has created a large trough or groove in the blade. Also, after a while the detent ball loses its circular shape and wears down to a flat surface. This has created a very deep rough surface inside the groove on the blade on all of them. In fact it has become so rough that if I do not use lube inside the groove, the opening and closing is severly compromised and feels very gritty. I have combated this issue by polishing the groove with a felt polishing tip on my dremel and some polishing compound. I lightly polish the mating surface and then put the knife back together with a bit of grease inside the groove to lessen the friction. Have you noticed this on any of your JYD's Steve? Or anyone else here? Its a real bother to me and is the only thing that I don't like about these SG2 JYDs. I was thinking that possibly this was the blem on these. Perhaps the heat treat on the detent or blade didn't turn out quite right? Or maybe thats just what happens with the 420j steel that is on the outside of these blades. I've never had this issue on any other folder I've owned. On a few other knives the detent ball has lightly squared off, but never as much as thes JYD's and it has never caused a groove in the blade like this.
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I do something fairly quick and easy to remove the detents but some detents are more difficult to remove if not impossible. The reason I drill my holes clear through the lock as I do and why I like those also done this way is just for this reason because knowing the sizes I need for each ball used in the industry I simply turn a drill bit around so the shank is down and use my drill press (not running) to use the press to push the detent out by setting the slab face down on a 1x6 pine board with a small recess drilled into it to catch the ball. Even though this is so and I have the old ball I rarely if ever use the same ball but simply place one of mine in it. All mine are supposed to be 440C at 60 RC so they should be similar to the same hardness as most blades.
All of them will leave a small trail on the blades and thats unavoidable. If it starts to feel gritty simply use some gun grease on the end of a tooth pick and stick it down in there with the blade partially closing just enough to hold the lock back but not be touching the detent ball. Be sure not to get any on the contact and if you do wipe it off. Shouldn't take much but just enough to put a small dab on the ball so it greases up the trail some to reduce friction. If one dab doesn't do ya try two or three in steps after rotating the blade. This will ease opening and reduce the wear of a flat spot without adding so much grease that the folder pivot becomes a lint trap. Midway sells a pretty good grease called "Super Lube" synthetic grease in a tube that I've bought over the years. Chris Reeve sells one also that is also quite good.
STR
I do something fairly quick and easy to remove the detents but some detents are more difficult to remove if not impossible. The reason I drill my holes clear through the lock as I do and why I like those also done this way is just for this reason because knowing the sizes I need for each ball used in the industry I simply turn a drill bit around so the shank is down and use my drill press (not running) to use the press to push the detent out by setting the slab face down on a 1x6 pine board with a small recess drilled into it to catch the ball. Even though this is so and I have the old ball I rarely if ever use the same ball but simply place one of mine in it. All mine are supposed to be 440C at 60 RC so they should be similar to the same hardness as most blades.
All of them will leave a small trail on the blades and thats unavoidable. If it starts to feel gritty simply use some gun grease on the end of a tooth pick and stick it down in there with the blade partially closing just enough to hold the lock back but not be touching the detent ball. Be sure not to get any on the contact and if you do wipe it off. Shouldn't take much but just enough to put a small dab on the ball so it greases up the trail some to reduce friction. If one dab doesn't do ya try two or three in steps after rotating the blade. This will ease opening and reduce the wear of a flat spot without adding so much grease that the folder pivot becomes a lint trap. Midway sells a pretty good grease called "Super Lube" synthetic grease in a tube that I've bought over the years. Chris Reeve sells one also that is also quite good.
STR
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2009
- Messages
- 2,119
Cool thanks Steve I'll look into the synthetic greases that you speak of.
