What did you rehang today?

[junkenstien]

File is what I used,just like they said in the thread above,not as hard as the bit but harder than a normal poll,have a 1 3/4 lb victory and it's a normal poll.off topic did one of you fellas get that true temper jersey earlier?

 

[Agent_H]

File is what I used,just like they said in the thread above,not as hard as the bit but harder than a normal poll,have a 1 3/4 lb victory and it's a normal poll.off topic did one of you fellas get that true temper jersey earlier?

One posted here?

 

[300Six]

File is what I used,just like they said in the thread above,not as hard as the bit but harder than a normal poll,have a 1 3/4 lb victory and it's a normal poll.off topic did one of you fellas get that true temper jersey earlier?

Ads for Plumb Nationals said they were made for pounding but that may have been more a function of increased mass of the poll and the bevelled corners and edges which wouldn't exhibit mushrooming anywhere near as obvious as a conventional head. I was quite excited about these a few years ago because they mimicked the description of bona fide rafters but enough folks posted pictures of mushroomed National heads after (most of them hatchet (especially Boy Scout) versions) that it became obvious that these are nowhere near as durable. The one I have has the original wine-stained curved handle and is as close to NOS as it gets so I'm loathe to experiment on driving 6 x 6 and railway tie retaining wall 10-12" spikes with it, but if I come across another one (highly unlikely in eastern Ontario where Walters and upstart bargain Swedes reigned supreme during that period) I'll make sure the handle is fresh and oversized and lend it out to a commercial landscaper for a week or two. If you really want to field test an axe just issue it to energetic young bucks that have more brawn than brains.

 

[junkenstien]

No sir ,the bay.I have seen some really bad mushrooming on some of them,hear you on the youngsters.

 

[Square_peg]

View attachment 748546 2 1/4 lb plumb ,handles not done wanted to swing it before dark,got a hard poll

It's a beautiful axe but man that thing is screaming for a half banana grind!

 

[jblyttle]

I hung this tonight, a 1.5lb Maine head that I have not been able to identify. It is on an 18" ash handle with a cherry wedge and weighs a total of just under 2lb.

IMG_20170812_220150 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170812_220227 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170812_220314 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170812_220249 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170812_220242 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr

 

[Agent_H]

Jblyttle - I like what you did with that one.

Here is one from several years ago that I put together. Similar look to them?
JB's

Enough room between the shoulder and eye to carry your own tinder kit...

 

[Agent_H]

Niagra Tinsmith Hammer – sometimes it takes twice.
First attempt lead to snapping off:

Second run at it using an NOS Premium handle and Cherrywood crossƚwedge:
Niagra Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Niagra Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Niagra Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


Niagra Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Niagra Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Just a little bulge.
Niagra Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

 

[300Six]

First attempt lead to snapping off:
Second run at it using an NOS Premium handle and Cherrywood crossƚwedge:
Niagara Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


Niagra Hammer by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

I love it! Dispense with those industry-standard cheater steel wedges and suddenly a hammer hang becomes a thing of beauty.

 

[junkenstien]

4 1/4 lb unmarked head 7inches long 5 3/4 inch bit 36inch handle

 

[Agent_H]

American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie

A reclaim handle off of an older Craftsman hatchet (previous misassignment, I think)

The knock mid-blade will come out next sharpening. 22.5°

 

[garry3]

I was thinking that was a fine looking hatchet not to have a stamp. Wasn't expecting it on that side. The vintage haft was a great choice.

 

[Agent_H]

The knock mid-blade will come out next sharpening. 22.5°

American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

 

[Camperspecial]

American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


American Sharpie

A reclaim handle off of an older Craftsman hatchet (previous misassignment, I think)

How do you go about placing a wood cross wedge like that? The hammer posted immediately before this is also pretty good looking.
Do you make cuts first anticipating this?
A good link or even quick point in the right direction would be forever appreciated. I really like the looks of this. It really shows craftsmanship.

 

[turdle]

not a axe but i am fond of it. need a handle for this hammer and did not feel like going to town. went out back and found a piece of cypress.

 

[Gator39]

I have that same head needing rehung.
Except mine is a TB 2.
Yours is a TB 2 F.
Do you know what the difference is ?

Because of its heft, I was thinking maybe a longer handle would balance better.

Yours is very nicely restored though.

 

[Agent_H]

How do you go about placing a wood cross wedge like that? The hammer posted immediately before this is also pretty good looking.
Do you make cuts first anticipating this?
A good link or even quick point in the right direction would be forever appreciated. I really like the looks of this. It really shows craftsmanship.

Thank you! That handle had a Craftsman's hatchet head on it with one of those steel step wedges in it. That one isn't a crosswedge though. The steel wedge I pulled out left those hateful little holes in the top part of the tongue. Can't make them disappear once they're there but that handle was too nice to let them win.

I wedged it normally, cleared of the holes of any loose wood/wedging, and then carved tiny "wedges" shaped to each one. There are too many really nice handles that are ruined or let lay in a heap somewhere because of those steel wedges.

I have that same head needing rehung.
Except mine is a TB 2.
Yours is a TB 2 F.
Do you know what the difference is ?

Because of its heft, I was thinking maybe a longer handle would balance better.

Yours is very nicely restored though.

Thank you, I bet we can figure out what the F is on there.

It seems to balance to me.
Being a hewing/carving tool, blade presentation is important as well as control.
It's actually quite nimble and very sharp -

Besides, tis but a weee thing lol

Size Comparison by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

 

[I'mSoSharp]

Now I know this won't go down well with many but when it comes to hammers, especially smaller hammers I believe steel wedges are by far a better permanent fix as apposed to only wooden wedges, even if cross wedged, wood as well as steel is needed.
This is not the same for larger eyes like axes, that's a different matter with bigger areas.

Obviously the shaft needs to be a tight fit to begin with, but in a smaller hammer head it might only need half an inch of handle wood to be "compressed" or "spread" on the outer end of the "hourglass" shape of the eye, anything much past half way into the eye isn't needed or desirable, also a higher pressure can be exerted on the wood with a steel wedge. A decent steel barbed wedge in my opinion cannot be beaten for this.

Of the scores of old hammers I've collected when a larger eye has originally been cross wedged with wood & steel it's usually half or even all of the wooden wedge that's missing, sometimes then sadly bodged with nails & screws.

I know many complain steel barbed wedges are often hard to remove without destroying the handle, the simple fact is a hammer handle hung correctly with a steel wedge will only need a new handle when it's beyond salvation anyway so that really doesn't matter, what matters is it NOT coming out.

A correctly hung steel wedged handle can be tightened back up easily after years of use or in an area with big humidity shifts by tapping the handle (usually on a hard surface, shaft down) & re-seating the wedge a bit deeper usually using a punch then dress a little wood away as necessary, obviously this is dependent on a good shaped eye & handle fit in the first place.

Off topic slightly, there a pictures floating about of poorly fitted handles where wooden wedges are used to take up "slack", a handle should be "tap it home" tight before wedging, soft hammer useful here.

I have a panel hammer I steel wedged in 1988, now I don't abuse my tools but that hammer has seen lots of use with as far as I can remember nothing more than an oiling (whatever was around) once in a blue moon, still tight.

This is my opinion, as others rightly point out it is important for newbies reading looking for advice, it serves to balance out others opinions, which are just that, opinions not fact.

 

[Gator39]

Well the size alone might be the differ then.
My blade top to bottom is 4 1/4 inches.
On a 16 in handle.
Pretty top heavy.
Was thinking of about a 22 or so in handle.

Ooops , just caught my mistake.
Had that description confused with another hatchet I was looking up.

 

[Agent_H]

Now I know this won't go down well with many but when it comes to hammers, especially smaller hammers I believe steel wedges are by far a better permanent fix as apposed to only wooden wedges, even if cross wedged, wood as well as steel is needed.
This is not the same for larger eyes like axes, that's a different matter with bigger areas.

Obviously the shaft needs to be a tight fit to begin with, but in a smaller hammer head it might only need half an inch of handle wood to be "compressed" or "spread" on the outer end of the "hourglass" shape of the eye, anything much past half way into the eye isn't needed or desirable, also a higher pressure can be exerted on the wood with a steel wedge. A decent steel barbed wedge in my opinion cannot be beaten for this.

Of the scores of old hammers I've collected when a larger eye has originally been cross wedged with wood & steel it's usually half or even all of the wooden wedge that's missing, sometimes then sadly bodged with nails & screws.

I know many complain steel barbed wedges are often hard to remove without destroying the handle, the simple fact is a hammer handle hung correctly with a steel wedge will only need a new handle when it's beyond salvation anyway so that really doesn't matter, what matters is it NOT coming out.

A correctly hung steel wedged handle can be tightened back up easily after years of use or in an area with big humidity shifts by tapping the handle (usually on a hard surface, shaft down) & re-seating the wedge a bit deeper usually using a punch then dress a little wood away as necessary, obviously this is dependent on a good shaped eye & handle fit in the first place.

Off topic slightly, there a pictures floating about of poorly fitted handles where wooden wedges are used to take up "slack", a handle should be "tap it home" tight before wedging, soft hammer useful here.

I have a panel hammer I steel wedged in 1988, now I don't abuse my tools but that hammer has seen lots of use with as far as I can remember nothing more than an oiling (whatever was around) once in a blue moon, still tight.

This is my opinion, as others rightly point out it is important for newbies reading looking for advice, it serves to balance out others opinions, which are just that, opinions not fact.

I can agree with all of this.

I can also post some pictures where the end of a hammer or hatchet handle couldn't be fixed properly with reseating the wedge or where the previous owner embedded other stuff that also had to be removed before reseating- pieces of door hinge, automotive glass, keys, chunks of lawnmower blade (sharp part down), etc.

Truth in Lending- For every 4 I do right there is 1 split handle on a shelf sitting there scowling at me.

It started as a "salvage operation".