What sharpening system for a benchmade 940?

K

KnifeWizard

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Aug 16, 2017
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Hi, I am going to purchase a Benchmade 940 Osborne in the near future and don't have much experience sharpening knives. Of these sharpening systems, which do you think would work best to give me a hair popping sharp blade on the cpm s30v?
1. Spyderco sharpmaker with the added purchase of the diamond and fine stones
2. DMT 6" dia-sharp kit
Or
3. One 6" DMT coarse dia-sharp stone for major work and a Naniwa Economical combination 1000/3000 (double sided) grit water stone for finishing and touch up

Which would be the best? Any other suggestions? My budget is $100-150. Thanks
 
Given your prior experience, I'd go the sharpmaker route. Learning curve is not steep and won't take you long to pickup on.
 
Ok, if I buy the diamond stones for it do I use those all the time or only if it goes dull? Do you think the diamond stones will be easy to reprofile s30v with? If I get the correct angle, will the standard stones work well for touching up the blade even though it's s30v?
 
Only to reprofile or to repair egregious edge damage. Easy, yes. But time consuming. Standard stones will work fine. Try not to discourage yourself from trying to sharpen S30V on a waterstone.
 
If you have a budget of 150 save up a bit more and get a guided system like kme. It comes with 4 diamond stones and a clamp system. Base is extra but I like using the base. It would probably work in a vise If you have one. This is less costly than buying 4 bench stones. And easier to re profile any blade or heck just put the correct angle on various knives.
 
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I was told I needed to use diamond stones. So would I be able to get a good edge on the blade if I buy a 220 grit coarse DMT dia-sharp 8" stone for reprofiling the blade to the angle I want and then use Naniwa double sided 1000/3000 grit to finish the edge? Also, does anyone have any experience with the DMT knife sharpening guide?
 
KnifeWizard said:
I was told I needed to use diamond stones. So would I be able to get a good edge on the blade if I buy a 220 grit coarse DMT dia-sharp 8" stone for reprofiling the blade to the angle I want and then use Naniwa double sided 1000/3000 grit to finish the edge? Also, does anyone have any experience with the DMT knife sharpening guide?
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What steel is your knife? Naniwa could take a lot longer if you have high carbide steel if someone told you that you need diamonds.

Edit derp s30v... You will want diamonds it's just faster.
 
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If you get a sharpmaker, and use it often, you may rarely ever need the diamond stones. You may be better off wrapping coarse sandpaper around the sharpmaker rods for those rare times you need something coarser than the sharpmaker rods. This would be the cheaper option, assuming you never let your knife get really dull.
 
This guy gave you some great advice in your other thread hehe :D...

cbwx34 said:
I'm a fan of WorkSharp's Guided Sharpening System + Upgrade Kit... gives you a variety of diamond stone abrasive levels (XC,C,F,XF), leather, ceramic, etc.... guides to get you started... freehand as you learn and get better (plus a decent base to work from). Everything you need in a setup under $100 for both the sharpener and upgrade package.
Click to expand...

At any rate... personally, I’d skip the Sharpmaker... stones are much better option.
 
KME is a great little System. I also use a sharpmaker but basically for a quick touch up. Would take a week to sharpen a completely dull blade on it.
 
Depends on how much you wanna spend. Since technically you can get hair popping results on any of them just requires experience more or less depending on what younare using.

FREE HAND (recommendation): benchstones- DMT COARSE 8x3 continous surface, Spyderco 306UF ceramic, Strop with either Bark River compound or emulsion (i have these)

System: various but if price is no subject maybe Wicked Edge, KME, Edge Pro (have WE)

MISC: spyderco sharpmaker this one is probably most affordable and sorta falls btw free hand and system imo. (Dont have but have read about them)

Im no pro but from what little research i did thats what i would have to say. Im sure for benchstones there are a ton of options as well as the different stropping compounds, etc.

Lastly really it comes down to $ and preference.
 
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