What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I checked out a bladesports international competition that Scott Gossman hosted a few weeks ago. Got me itching to make something for myself for a change. So this is 15" OAL, 10" blade, 1/4" thick O1. Ready for heat treat.
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you probably know the blade wants to jump and slip out of your hand during the chopping.
just a reminder for when you make you handle :)
 
with that aluminum surface no need for forced air.. any "normal" thickness will be hand cool by 50 seconds or so..
 
A new one in ATS 34, 59c with a tapered tang and black G10

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Just picked these up. Maybe be able to make something out of them one day. What type of steel y'all suppose these are?

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So I've got a good feeling these are made from good steel, it is definitely not case hardened. It's HARD all the way through. Very hard. I pulled the balls out of one and cut a section off to try and make a cleaver for a coworker of mine. It chewed through 2 4 1/2" cut off wheels and I still had to break it the rest of the way through with a hammer. The grain looks very tight and small. Heated the forge up to straighten the section out and it better be above 1700* or it's not moving at all. There is a very narrow window to hammer on it. Once it cools a couple hundred degrees you can't hardly dent it let alone move it. I'll post some pics when I get time.
 
That isn't always the best sign, Marc. You may have a highly alloyed steel. Could make it very difficult to work and heat treat. Keep going at it and hope for the best, bud.
 
That isn't always the best sign, Marc. You may have a highly alloyed steel. Could make it very difficult to work and heat treat. Keep going at it and hope for the best, bud.

Thanks Rick. I'll see how it goes a little better tonight as well. All I had was a 2lb short handled sledge. Just picked up a 3lb cross pein and a 4lb engineer's hammer. Cheepo's from harbor freight, but the'll work till I order some better ones. I thought I had a couple better hammers in my box, but they must have grown legs.

I don't think the steel being almost 1/2" thick was helping either. A lot of steel to move.
 
You may also try fully heating and soaking it, prior to forging. It could be that the core never fully achieved a decent forging heat. It would be like trying to fry a pound of frozen hamburger. Get that baby yellow hot!
 
It was a long afternoon, but in the end the biscuits are cooked well!







Meanwhile other knives are marked and other sharp



_______________________
Riccardo Mainolfi
 
Etching with the simplest etcher/marker ever:




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Hah! That's awesome, you even have the option of switching from ac to dc just by switching sides of the diode! Lol! Love it!
 
Please explain this set up...appreciated.

Sure, just grab a door bell transformer from a hardware store like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Utilitech-Wired-Door-Chime-Transformer/50237313

Then find an appropriately sized diode and attach it to the upper post with the silver stripe towards the transformer. A diode converts AC to DC, so with the red alligator clip on the side of the diode shown in the picture I'm getting DC current to my cuetip etcher. DC current removes metal. Then if I want to "mark" my etch, I move the alligator clip over the other side of the diode (or directly onto the upper post on the transformer).

I just use a simple vinyl cut template:
 
Getting a bunch of finish work done this week. Then on to profiling while I wait for another heat treat batch.
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Man you guys make some killer stuff. Here is my first attempt....hope to have my home grown micarda on it this weekend.
I quoted this because I am curious as to what kind of handle/scale material this is. The top one that looks like an alien spine.
I am also diggin the aluminum honeycomb stuff....where does a fella get that.
Hmmmm....guess I am not posting a pic. I am getting a url option but not an upload from my documents option.
 
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