Which Shapton Stone?

Razor

Razor

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Dec 8, 1999
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I have a diamond stone and a spyderco medium and fine bench stone. I was wanting to try a shapton stone and was wondering which one to get since I have these other stone? Also, for my strop number micron paste should I get? Sorry if this has been ask a 100 other times.
 
Shapton stones are made to work with each other. When you try and mix them with other stones factors such as the bond strength of the stone and abrasive type can greatly change the outcome. IMO it is not easy to just add a Shapton into an existing stone set.

It would help to know the knives you are sharpening, the grit and brand of your diamond plate and what grit stone you were thinking of adding.
 
I will mostly be sharpening frame lock folders in CPM154 and CTS-XHP steel.
 
Since the coarseness of your diamond stone is a secret I would recommend the Shapton White 120 Pro. I love that stone; cuts fast stays pretty flat doesn't load up or require scrubbing it over a diamond plate to get it cutting again. It cuts very aggressively consistently.

Why ?
Because the name of the game in sharpening is to cut the steel behind the edge back until you get two planes forming an apex. Using finer stones to get the edge sharp is a compromise and requires making the edge angle/geometry wider because it is very time consuming to abrade the whole bevel with a medium or fine stone. The 120 gets you to sharp quick . . . you can then refine the edge as you like with the finer stones.

That said I mixed in a Shapton Pro 2000 between my King 1000 (1200?) and my Norton 4000 and had good success. Though as Jason said it is best to go all one brand which I did soon after. I now use the extra coarse and coarse diamond plate just to freshen and flatten the Shapton Pros.


Shapton 120
 
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. . .CPM154 and CTS-XHP steel.

PS:
That blade on the white 120 is CTX-XHP. As you can see that stone just loves to cut that steel. One of my favorite steels.
 
Shapton pro 2k grit is a good stone.. coarse enough to apex an edge that's not too dull but fine enough to leave a really good edge
 
The diamond stone is a EZ-lap 8" X 3". I do not know what grit.
 
You may as well ask what you should have for dinner tonight! LOL! Your going to get a host of different recs...even with one brand! What are you looking for? A starting point? Middle range? Finishing stone? Really depends. I like them all! As Jason preaches, the Shaptons do perform best when used together. But I'm less strict about it than he. Using them with other brands will not tear a hole in the space time continuem! It will still accomplish what you are looking for. The 500grit is a fantastic stone. And I really enjoy the 1K. Others do not. The 2K is also great, but I don't use it. 4K,6K,8K....All wonderful! It sounds like you just want to try one. I would probably say try either the 500grit, or 6K. Will give you an idea of either the lower range, or the higher range. You will be able to gauge your opinion on the lineup based on using either one.
 
Thanks David. Yes I was just wanting to try one to see what they were like.
 
Or do you not know? Haha I was the same way two months ago u can search bf for all my post ab them and probably find some good info
 
That's the shapton pros.. the Kuramoku or however it's spelled are the same.. they are really good stones for almost half the price on Amazon
 
A little more info about the 120

I was honing out the scratches caused by my super coarse diamond file while flattening the sides of this blade. I was using the Shapton Pro 120. it seemed very different this time from the last time I did this with another Cold Steel Ti Lite IV. Gee this is going MUCH faster; honing large areas flat and much smoother. Hmmmmm. Was a real struggle and slow going last time.
Ohhhhhhhhhh
This is AUS 8
Last time it was CTS-XHP
Wow there is a huge difference here.

Don't get me wrong this stone was doing great with the CTS-XHP . . . I have similar and more coarse white stones up to 80 grit that would just STOP cutting and smooth over while flattening large surfaces of this and similar tough steels.
Any way if you are sharpening softer steels like AUS 8 this thing blazes through that stuff.



PS: the coarseness of your diamond stone may be printed on the edge of the stone.
 
You might enjoy this vid

Jason says his perspective and experience is limited so not the end all be all but I think he does a good job with what he's got.

Maybe a 320 is for you.
 
I'm think the only reason for keeping the same brand and type is because apparently there grit ratings do not coincide with each other. This is especially true between american and japanese synthetic stones.
 
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