why not sharpen on a belt grinder?

Ever since I became seriously interested in sharpening my own knives, I've always had the specific goal in mind of learning to do it in a manner that's portable and always available to me. In other words, having the means and the ability to do it pretty much anytime, anywhere, with the most readily available tools and materials at hand or (better yet) in my pocket. No obligatory ties to electrical sources of power, save for decent artificial lighting when it's needed, and no necessity for workbenches with machinery attached. I've now met that goal in finally learning how to do that, and it's a very freeing feeling in having done it.

My goal would obviously be different if I someday became interested in grinding blades from pieces of bar stock or whatever, for which a belt grinder would have obvious advantages. But for simple sharpening or edge-setting, I don't feel it necessary to rely on a powered tool at all. Sharpening by unpowered means really only takes some extra time if one is setting up new geometry for an edge. The necessary patience learned in doing that is integral and a virtue, and makes for better results in sharpening overall. And even that can still be done in reasonable time, if one is wise about their choices of tools, i.e., the right grit for the task and a suitably large abrasive surface area in the stones selected to do the work. It usually only needs to be done once, if it's done right the first time. Once that's done, any maintenance sharpening that follows shouldn't and won't take more than a few minutes or less; and usually with just a few passes in less than a minute's time.

If I already owned a grinder and access to it was convenient and timely to the task at hand, I'd not deliberately ignore it. It's just another tool with it's own possibilities and uses, and another skill to learn. But, since I originally taught myself how to do without a powered grinder for sharpening needs, it's never going to be necessary to me for that purpose.


David
 
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For reprofiling it certainly is a usable tool. I have a HF without variable speed. I actually put the whole grinder at an angle (let's say 10 degrees) and keep the blade vertical. That thinns out the primary bevel nicely. I do swift swipes and dip in water after each one. I usually try to stop before a burr but often there is one. I then apply the working "bevel" on it by hand (basically a microbevel) which I don't measure but I know that my hand muscle memory is always at about 20 dps.
 
Yea, they scare me. I'm a 62 year old hillbilly from WV and my Dad taught me how to work up a burr when I was 10 on the medium side of the wetrock, lubed with motor oil or 3 in one. The fine side is barely used. Mostly for knocking the burr off. Then off to the strop.
Not sure I'll ever use an electric sander.
 
A skilled operator, using linen belts and CBN or diamond spray can put a hair whittling edge on a knife and polish that edge to 100K in minutes.

The key words here are skilled operator and linen belts.

I don't iuse one YET, but am seriously co=nsidering a
 
Sorry I haven't gotten back in a couple days. Thanks for all the input. I really enjoy all the different views. I kinda think that a person should definitely learn to freehand first. I love freehand I just am not as fast with it.
 
Like most I've tried them all and in all honesty use my sharpmaker the most edge pro second then for certain knives or situations the ken onion work sharp. If your careful and go slow you can do okay but man one slip can really ruin your day and your knife
 
If I could only have one sharpener it would be a belt grinder. They work great for all types of sharpening. Yes even for a quick touchup, think leather belt.

If I can only have one it'll be a medium diamond hone, I seriously believe the average knife collector over sharpens most of the time. I also notice people who seem to think pushing harder on the stone does a better job. I also believe most people most times are using the wrong stone to sharpen anyway.

45 years I've been freehand sharpening, let me rephrase that 15 years I spent ruining the edge on my knives, 10 years learning what I was doing wrong, 10 years learning how to not do what I was doing wrong and finally the last 10 years honing my skills and educating my muscles. :)

I would much rather do all my sharpening freehand on stones, hones and strops but that's sharpening. Now if I have to reprofile a blade or edge I'd be happy to set my primary beveI with a belt grinder but if I'm gonna use the grinder as a tool I'm gonna use the right grinder (a 2"X72" with a VFD motor) or I'm gonna stick to freehand. I't takes more effort and time to destroy a bevel or edge freehand. Know your tools and how to use them and you'll have no problem putting your edge on
 
Rubbing sharpening a knife on a stone is stone age technology. Yes You can cut a tree with a ax but a chainsaw is much better
 
Here, here. We have W.E. Edge Pro and belts. Why bother with spending years learning obsolete skills?
 
Here, here. We have W.E. Edge Pro and belts. Why bother with spending years learning obsolete skills?

Far from obsolete, I can go into the woods and keep a sharp knife, you on the other hand have to bring a few knives because if you dull, chip or somehow fold your edge over unless you have a generator or a battery operated grinder in your pocket you're screwed.

I always tell people to learn the basics and practice, you can only get better. Then you could carry a small medium grit diamond hone in your in your pocket and keep most knives sharp. It's amazing how fast an experienced person can put an edge back on a knife freehand. Oh and I get the added benefit of stress relief from the process of freehand sharpening, it's a zen thing. :)
 
why do so many of you seem to think that a person can only have one way to sharpen? now i don't have any jigged systems like wicked edge or edge pro but I do free hand on waterstones, or arkansas stones. I also have the DMT sharpening plates and the diafold sharpeners (both the flat ones and the rod ones) as well as my belt grinder. I love sharpening and kinda take pride in the fact that I can sharpen a knife on just about anything. If i want to sharpen something at home and i have electricity but little time I will use my grinder. If I have time I will use benchstones either waterstones, arkansas stones, or if it is one of my harder steels diamond. If i am on the go out and about and happen to need to touch up a knife i always have the DMT diafolds in my truck or on my person. I dont fully rely on on powered sharpening methods. ;)
 
I buy production knife and i understand no one is going to take time with it like i will.

I'll pick the right abrasive for the steel.
I'll sharpen it freehand making cutting motions into the stone. Same motions as if I'm cutting something. The edge produced will be just right for me, set in a perfect plane for the way I am making my cutting motions.
I'll use water with Waterstones or diamonds. There won't be any heat buildup to that little tiny edge of the knife that supposed to stay sharp. And, next time I'm going to resharpen it's going to be fast because it's already set to how i do it. Go watch big brown guy and how fast he sharpens S110V on YouTube.
 
I'll sharpen it freehand making cutting motions into the stone. Same motions as if I'm cutting something. The edge produced will be just right for me, set in a perfect plane for the way I am making my cutting motions.

While I'm sure this approach works for you, I find the idea of "cutting into the stone" to be a misleading way to describe sharpening motions. People have been saying this since the 70s, and no matter how many times I've read it, it hasn't helped me to sharpen any better.

More importantly, you aren't customizing your blade's edge by "making cutting motions". You make your blade edge more thin by lowering the edge angle, using the standard methods of sharpening. While you might get nice repeatable results by emulating cutting motions into your stone, you definitely are not improving it's cutting ability unless you are lowering the edge angle in the process.

But hey, if it works for you, keep on doing what makes you happy and yields results you like

Brian.
 
While I'm sure this approach works for you, I find the idea of "cutting into the stone" to be a misleading way to describe sharpening motions. People have been saying this since the 70s, and no matter how many times I've read it, it hasn't helped me to sharpen any better.

More importantly, you aren't customizing your blade's edge by "making cutting motions". You make your blade edge more thin by lowering the edge angle, using the standard methods of sharpening. While you might get nice repeatable results by emulating cutting motions into your stone, you definitely are not improving it's cutting ability unless you are lowering the edge angle in the process.

But hey, if it works for you, keep on doing what makes you happy and yields results you like

Brian.
Its about the feel. When you have a blade with a belly the angle from the heel to the tip its going to change. The person sharpening on a stone can really make this transition their own, putting it in their natural plane. When you use a belt sander it's not going to be close to the actual way you are cutting. Its like people doing exercises. Some people just do it mechanically. It looks the same but they don't really understand what they are doing...
These are just some of the benefits i see doing it this way. I think it's too easy to overheat the edge with motorized equipment.
 
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cap'njake
is correct. I also use many different methods. In fact I use my bench hones free hand more than any other method. Here is just an example of why a belt sander is so nice. Yesterday I sharpened 10 chisels that were in bad shape. I got them reprofiled and razer sharp in less than an hour. Probably would have taken all day with my bench hones and I do have an XXC diamond hone. When there is more than 1 or 2 knives I always use my belt grinder it just is quicker and the edges after using a leather belt are just crazy sharp.
 
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