I shape and sand to 400 grit on slack belt. I then knock down the pins on platen or contact wheel depending on handle shape. 800 grit and up it becomes less of a problem.
Stay away from stainless pins. G10, micarta, brass, nickel silver pins are easier to work in this aspect.
I agree with what HSC said.
I do much prefer non-traditional handles on japanese-ish knives, so good initiative!
Wa handles are yesterday's news and a little tired if you ask me. But opinions vary and change, maybe I'll make one at some point. At this point nothing beats a smoothly contoured...
What you need is a disc grinder with a mitre gauge. Make the cut free hand or not on the band saw then clean up on disc.
Align the scales spine and belly. Fix with a few drops CA glue. Finish front radius of scales.
Align blade. Attach with few drops CA.
Thank you, I appreciate it.
G10 will polish much better than canvas or linen micarta since it's glass not cloth.
Put some Windex on a piece of glass and then som on your pants and see which one takes the best shine :)
Make sure to get all the scratches out from the previous grit as you...
The quality of micarta really matters too. This I got from Trugrit and it's great to work with. I have bought some of the artisan "micarta" too and it's been horrible to work with. Whole threads coming out when sawing and it won't polish at all. Never again.
12-1500 grit then two different...
Getting away boar hunting for a few days, so decided to put other things on hold and throw together a couple of knives for this trip.
One proper belt knife for gutting and skinning in 3.3 mm AEB-L, OAL 210 mm.
And one small neck/pocket carry in 2mm 14c28n, 170 mm OAL.
Both have slightly...
I also use an anvil, and get better results now compared to when I used a piece of mild steel ,that was a bit off in the surface too. You can get a new 20 kg Kanca anvil on amazon.de for good money. It's what I have.
I use a fairly rounded carbide tip, stuck in a hammer. I never hammer hard...
Yes it's a metal band saw. I was only talking about those. Wood cutting saws typically run higher speeds and have more hp.
Mine runs 30-90 m/min. I have it set on 30 always and use 18 tpi blades. For steel, micarta, g10. I don't use any wood in the shop.
It's not all in the horse power. For example among floor standing industrial versions of smaller size (310 mm / 12" throat depth) 1/2 and sometimes 1 hp is most common. Mine has 360 mm depth and uses 2900 mm long blades, has a 1 hp motor and no issues cutting thick stuff.
In my experience they don't need a whole lot of breaking in. A minute or two. I find it is important to have 100% finish before using them to get it nice. Eg a complete 400 grit finish with no scratches left from the previous grit, then 400 grit cork.