110 cant close it

Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Messages
294
Hello Buck Nuts,

i just received a very nice custom by David Yellowhorse. Beautiful knife!
Problem is I cant close it! No matter how hard I try this knife will not close.
It has Yellowhorse's Native Steel blade.

Any suggestions?
 
does the rocker lock depress at the back?
if it does, is it that the blade wont move?
my two G10's are a tad stiff to push the lock and close the blade
if were users they would need break in..
but i wont use them esp the custom one..
have you tried a lube like break free?
more detail data would be nice with this odd issue..
 
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We get spoiled by the Wally World/mass produced basic 110 - they seem to all work flawlessly. The Buck 'Custom Shop' 110s spoil us as well. But - I had the same way-too-tight problem with the second BG-42/G10 BCCI 110 I got last month. You nearly needed pliers to depress the lockback bar enough to then grudgingly release the blade. Even then, it got me once, leaving the top of my forefinger bleeding. The smoothness of the blade's rotation was improved by flooding it with aerosol RemOil, and black dust, possibly ground G10 or Micarta, was floated out. Any improvement in bar operation was minimal. Mine was headed home for a swap, anyway - it had fit problems with the scales, too. The replacement was perfect - I just shouldn't have had to spend $11.05 to get the knife back to them.

I would return that fine knife to the vendor for exchange for another one, if they have it. Otherwise, send it back to Buck. Oddly, my buying spree from last week, netting me three knives from two vendors, has also produced two turkeys that shouldn't have left the factory - or vendor. One, an ordered 112FG, actually had a new 112 in the box. The other, an 850 Bravo, was improperly assembled, resulting in a dragging & dull blade and scales that stand above the frame. They just arrived yesterday, see other threads, and I haven't received an answer from the vendor yet. The knife boxes were dated 5 & 8 of 08 - I wonder if this has anything to do with Buck's downsizing/consolodation? Yeah, always on the look out for 'black helicopters'!

Let us know what happens - it sure isn't normal.

Stainz
 
Well, add me to the list of those having had problems with the G10/BG42. I ordered two or two separate occassions. The first one was flawless, but the second had scale problems as well, so it was sent back for a replacement. The blade on the replacement also would not close when opened. The lockback depressed fine, but the blade absolutely wouldn't budge. I flushed it out with WD40 and compressed air, but really didn't notice that anything was removed. Finally, after applying considerable force, I finally did get it to close, but had the same problem again when re-opened. Again, considerable force resulted in closure. So I sat and opened/closed for about a half hour while watching TV, and it finally got to the point where it closed without excessive force. It's still tight today, but workable.
 
I have found that with some stiff release lockbacks, they will close easier if you push down on the blade (towards the closing position) while pushing the lock release at the same time, the knife closes easier. Try it but be careful not to press down so hard on the blade as to make it close on your fingers.
 
I had a new custom shop stag BG42 110 the first time I opened it couldn't get it to close .I sent it back,and now I can close it. Aggravating to return it should have been checked before it left.
 
I'm going to Park City at the end of the month and coming home by way of Jackson's Little Hole - I have a few days - and will hit Post Falls for a late lunch. I'll have them take a look at it and buy another. Oh, well.
 
Add me to the stiff BG/G10 list. I haven't fooled with it yet, think I will be able to fix it. Christmas gift for nephew who works , during hunting seasons,on one of Ted Turners ranches.
300Bucks
 
Yes I am depressing the rocker lock as far as I can. As for applying downward pressure on the blade for sure BUT sure as hell dont want to lose a finger.....I'm no Popeye but I cant close it at all. Its a David Yellowhorse custom, supposedly one of only two made...has his Native Steel blade......
 
If you want to try a possible fix i use,Put a few drops of Dawn inside the backspring and the blade pivot area.Run Hot water in the area as you work the blade back and forth.Hold the blade with a towel or otherwise be careful.
 
Hoe 3
i would spend the 6$ to send it back to dave yellowhorse
there is not enught reason to fight with it when it the sides and blade can be damaged easly..
let dave fix it..
 
Sending it back is probably the best answer.

Here is what I have run into as information and how I resolve the issues.

When putting new scales on a 110 care must be taken in removing the two rear pins that are above the tension spring. If one breaks off behind the liner the small piece of brass can jam in between the spring and pivot arm.

The 2nd problem in doing a rescale is not covering the same holes and allowing the adhesive to get in behind the tension spring causing the same result.

When I rescale a 110, I pull those pins and verify I have all of the pin and I put a small piece of tape over the holes to ensure no adhesive gets in behind the tension spring.

Tap the rear of the knife on a hard surface (I use a wood block) covered with a dense cover such as leather to prevent marring the rear. If a piece of brass is the probem it will usualy fall all the way to the rear and you may be able to tweeze it out from the space behind the lock release.

If that does not work use a bright light to look down into the blade well at the tension spring to see if there is any adhesive on it or something wedged between the spring and liners. A razor blade can be useful in cleaning along the sides between the spring and liners.

If these two do not work there may be adhesive along the sides of the pivot release arm. The usual spots are on both ends away from the center pivot. Most adhesives can be carefully scraped off but care must be taken to not scratch up the brass liners. I use a metal pick and a razor blade to clean out the gunk by scraping up and away from the liners on the steel of the release arm as much as possible. To do this you obviously need to get the lock released and I use smooth faced vise grips and leather to avoid marring the metal.
 
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I posted a thread about this a while back. New CS 110 w/wood, polished blade.Saw the same "black dust" around the pivot area and damn near impossible to close. Everything else about the knife is good, some one posted it just needs to be broken in some due to the custom shop tighter tolerences. I don't know...... this is my first custom buck.
 
I sprayed mine with Rem Oil, wrapped the blade with a wash cloth and worked it back and forth. It did feel gritty but as do it, it is improving. I will continue this breaking in but will not carry it as I cannot do it by hand. It's not like I have a shortage of 110's... :-)

BJ
 
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