1x30 sander or bench grinder and files?

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Nov 17, 2014
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I want to reshape/repurpose some scrap metal I've had sitting around and was wondering which would serve me better... a bench grinder to hog the metal and files to shape and bevel with a jig similar to the Gough bevel jig... or a belt sander.
I won't spend more than $200 on sander... so what would serve my purpose better? The stock I'm working with won't be heat treated and there will be probably stock removal about 30%.

By the way I already have the bench grinder so I'd be getting the files, building jig.

Thanks guys.
 
I would say belt grinder for sure.
If you have the patience to file, by all means, go the cheaper route.
For me, I simply don't have the time to file and like the feeling of grinding. You could go with a 1x30 or a 4x36 and modify it.

Let us know what you do and make sure you post some pictures!! :D
 
good files and good paper. for paper indasa redline is pretty tough. bench grinder would not be on my list to buy in your situation.
 
Either way will serve the purpose. Both will be slower than you imagine because of the low power of the motor. Most bench grinders have 1/3 to 1/2 HP motors and bog down very quickly. Ditto for 1x30 sanders. But if you are patient they will get the job started. A good set of files is a must.
 
If you're looking at an under-$200 budget, you should look at the Craftsman 2x42. Much better than any of the 1" options out there. Good belt selection at trugrit and supergrit.
 
1. A flipped over belt sander will work. Its what i use but its only good with experience. If I were you , i would get some files , lots of rhynowet red sandpaper , and special sanding blocks/sticks. And make enough knives to buy you a GOOD belt sander (minimum of 600 dollars unfortunately , and after that you will want to upgrade , so expect at least a 1000 dollar buy)

2. in my opinion , the best tool to get first is a bandsaw with a swag offroad table. I have the milwalkee portaband but you have to clamp the trigger down since it does not have a trigger lock so its unsafe to use one handed.

3. The hardest part will be initial shaping of the knives profile , not the bevels. If i were you i would explore designing your knife profile and giving it to a water jet company to cut out a bunch of blanks you can then use files on
 
I'd go for a 2x42 craftsmen sander. It's the best bang for your buck. I've used a 1x30 and while it's good for some things the tracking is usually bad and not ideal for anything bigger than a small neck knife. Get some ceramic belts from trugrit and you're solid.
 
I tell everybody this.....

Neither. None of it.

I also started with a 1x30 and a craftsman and the file and sandpaper route. I spun my wheels for a long time, and all these little machines and methods did for me was to disappoint and frustrate an ambitious knifemaking mind. These machines are fast, and offer very little control. The materials/platen/work table are cheap and flimsy.

I saved up my money and got a Coote. With the very first pass on that machine, I knew that I was in a whole new territory. The prior machines and methods did very little in even getting me acclimated to, or giving me experience for a 2x72 grinder. I just cannot give any love at all to the methods I tried before I took the plunge.

I believe in having the right tool for the job. Turns out, the 2x72 is the right tool for knifemaking. I believe that the 1x30 is like taking a spoon on top of a roof and trying to nail shingles. Its going to piss you off, and make you want to go home. That spoon is not going to give you experience in using a hammer either.

I believe if you're going to make a knife or two for a fun project, a file and some sandpaper would be ok. If your plan is to become a knifemaker, a professional machine is going to help you make professional looking and performing goods, and to be competitive/profitable/marketable.
 
The only plus I saw from starting with a 1x30, was to convince myself (and wife) that I wanted to continue on making knives. I used that for my fist dozen knives, then I knew I wanted to spend the extra cash on a "real" grinder. Then I convinced the boss that I needed a 2x72
 
Jason and beaster... thanks for the Craftsman tip, thinks that's what I'll go get/order. Looks like it could serve other purposes in my garage as well. I did a quick youtube search and it looks like there are quite a few people making decent looking blades that'd satisfy me. A few people have modded them also. Too bad they're 1/3 hp now and so damn fast.
 
I tell everybody this.....

Neither. None of it.

I also started with a 1x30 and a craftsman and the file and sandpaper route. I spun my wheels for a long time, and all these little machines and methods did for me was to disappoint and frustrate an ambitious knifemaking mind. These machines are fast, and offer very little control. The materials/platen/work table are cheap and flimsy.

I saved up my money and got a Coote. With the very first pass on that machine, I knew that I was in a whole new territory. The prior machines and methods did very little in even getting me acclimated to, or giving me experience for a 2x72 grinder. I just cannot give any love at all to the methods I tried before I took the plunge.

I believe in having the right tool for the job. Turns out, the 2x72 is the right tool for knifemaking. I believe that the 1x30 is like taking a spoon on top of a roof and trying to nail shingles. Its going to piss you off, and make you want to go home. That spoon is not going to give you experience in using a hammer either.

I believe if you're going to make a knife or two for a fun project, a file and some sandpaper would be ok. If your plan is to become a knifemaker, a professional machine is going to help you make professional looking and performing goods, and to be competitive/profitable/marketable.

Thanks for the advice Josh and to an extant I agree with you about having the right tool but I do think the law of diminishing returns comes into play when we're talking tools. A few years ago I asked some people about a HF jointer and they swore up and down that it just wouldn't work... waste of money... just piss me of. Well I bought it anyway because it was a tenth of the price and low and behold it turned out good work after I learned to use it. Yeah, the Grizzly did better... but no where near 10 times better. The HF jointer got me in the game, taught me how to use it and it was cheap enough that it doesn't bother me that it's collecting dust in the garage right now :)

BTW was your Craftsman the 2" and how do you like your Coote? Think that is what you're sticking with? I like the idea of it, bing able to build it with the motor of choice.
 
I tell everybody this.....

Neither. None of it.

I also started with a 1x30 and a craftsman and the file and sandpaper route. I spun my wheels for a long time, and all these little machines and methods did for me was to disappoint and frustrate an ambitious knifemaking mind. These machines are fast, and offer very little control. The materials/platen/work table are cheap and flimsy.

I saved up my money and got a Coote. With the very first pass on that machine, I knew that I was in a whole new territory. The prior machines and methods did very little in even getting me acclimated to, or giving me experience for a 2x72 grinder. I just cannot give any love at all to the methods I tried before I took the plunge.

I believe in having the right tool for the job. Turns out, the 2x72 is the right tool for knifemaking. I believe that the 1x30 is like taking a spoon on top of a roof and trying to nail shingles. Its going to piss you off, and make you want to go home. That spoon is not going to give you experience in using a hammer either.

I believe if you're going to make a knife or two for a fun project, a file and some sandpaper would be ok. If your plan is to become a knifemaker, a professional machine is going to help you make professional looking and performing goods, and to be competitive/profitable/marketable.

I totally agree with this. If you want to make knives, your 2x72 is your true bread and butter.

1x30s suck. Period.

I'd get a Kalamazoo 1x42 first, if I didn't get a 2x72.

It's low speed, so it's got way more torque than anything high speed, and it's almost impossible to get your material too hot.

With a platen upgrade, you will use the 1x42 the rest of your life anyway, and it's actually built to do just that.

I use four 1x42 Kalamazoos, a Coote and a TW90. I've tried just about everything. The only thing I need is another TW90.
 
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I can't justify a decent grinder because of all the leather gear (a sewing machine is as much as a kmg) I also don't plan on making a ton of knives. I use a Delta 1x30. I cannot comment on the better machines but I've tried files and even with the little sanders faults I'd still take it over files. Any day.

I was talking to the owner of Tru-Grit the other day. He told me that he's selling a crazy number of the little belts. Honestly I was a bit embarrassed to even mention my sander but apparently they are very popular for budding knife makers.

All that said, with your budget I'd go for the Craftsman sander.
 
I totally agree with this. If you want to make knives, your 2x72 is your true bread and butter.

1x30s suck. Period.

I'd get a Kalamazoo 1x42 first, if I didn't get a 2x72.

It's low speed, so it's got way more torque than anything high speed, and it's almost impossible to get your material too hot.

With a platen upgrade, you will use the 1x42 the rest of your life anyway, and it's actually built to do just that.

I use four 1x42 Kalamazoos, a Coote and a TW90. I've tried just about everything. The only thing I need is another TW90.

Any experience with the Craftsman 2x42? I am about set to order mine and had been wondering about the Kalamazoo. Also, Grizzly has a few in the range I'm looking at. I am trying to keep this machine under $200.

Also, about that 1x30... this guy seems to be doing pretty good with his HF 1x30, he's made a lot of knives that I'd be happy with... HF 1x30 work He goes through bands though.
 
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