3600rpm or 1800 rpm speed for Baldor 1/3 HP Buffer?

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Ome108

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Apr 29, 2014
Messages
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Hi Guys,
I looked at a chart for rpm to surface feet per minute conversion based on the wheel diameter used.
According to this model Baldor for about 260. Wheel size is 6 in diameter.
This motor is 3600 rpm's, so it is running at 5,655 SFPM.
THE SAME CHART recommends 7000- 8,000 SFPM FOR ALLOY steels and 6000 for aluminum and 7000 for brass and 8-9,000 for stainless steel.
Is this buffer only usefull for aluminum?
All the compounds also have high speeds rec'd to melt the buffing compound.
So, what is a good buffer that is for a hobbyist, not production by any means, and will handle the range of metals I will come across.
Not just aluminum. I want to make some knives and will want some sort of steel to make them.
I have never heard of aluminum knives, so what good is this particular baldor buffer good for?
Thanks,
Jon
 
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good info is dont grind with a finishing belt and you cant buff out scratches
best way to buff is only when you want to shine somethign and you dont have to have mega speed for that (the SFPM is based on industry std.) not knife maker std
 
butcher_block said:
good info is dont grind with a finishing belt and you cant buff out scratches
best way to buff is only when you want to shine somethign and you dont have to have mega speed for that (the SFPM is based on industry std.) not knife maker std
Click to expand...

Thanks Butch,
That is real good to know.
So , given I want to get a good,maybe not the best, buffer, for knifemaking.
I am limited in space, so unless It is really a must, not go for the double 8" arbors, just big.
I know that the diameter of the wheel and the rpm's can give you the SFPM.
WHICH speed with what diameter wheels?
I just want to end up with the buffer that will do what I need, tool steel 01 , stainless, aluminum occasionally.
I also like to see results quickly, not that I am rushing, but I just seem to work better that way.
My budget for the buffer is 800. , but compact size is a plus. Single phase is a must, unless it is variable with a VFD.
THANKS ALOT FOR ANY INFO.
Jon
 
1800 RPM with 6-8" buffs.
You will need lots of buffs, felt wheels, and compounds.
 
I have a Baldor 3/4hp buffer that runs two 10" wheels at 1800rpm. That comes out to 4710fpm. It is plenty fast for putting a quick shine on parts that are already properly prepared. With a sisal wheel and some emery, it will take out most scratches as well but, it takes some time and you lose control of the surface shape to some degree. I have to say, there is not a tool in my shop that intimidates me...EXCEPT that buffer! Running a buffer is tricky and it is not hard to get a part ripped out of your hands. I was polishing a stainless prototype speedometer bracket for Victory motorcycles. I had heavy leather gloves on and a good grip on the part. The wheel caught the edge of the bracket and flung it down hard. I had a strong grip on the part so my hand went with it. Every joint in that arm was sore for a month. I've not put a knife on that buffer yet but I will eventually. Just be careful!

Bob
 
From my few visits with the late mr. Bob Loveless, " The Buffer is the most DANGEROUS machine in the shop!"

I have a 1/3hp Balbor that I got a really good deal on long before I knew S$%&* about buffers. its 3600, if i was going to buy one today, now that I have had a few items grabbed and thrown down on the floor with such force that you kinda have a shock episode!:eek: I would get the 1800rpm. "Still very dangerous"

I really only use it for handle buffing and edge debarring for sharpening work. If you just want to buff a few parts once in awhile you could do fine with a cheap buffer from HF or Grizzley.

I got away without a buffer for years using cork & Scotchbrite belts along with a 3" buffing wheel on my flexshaft handheld drill for buffing handles.

Hope some of this helps?
 
Any tool can be dangerous.
Learning to properly use a buffer is part of knifemaking, and it's an important part.
 
The slower speed will polish steel just as well as the higher speed, and will
be a lot less likely to smear the finish on softer materials....like wood etc...

Also.....When (not if) you catch an edge in the buffing wheel......how fast do you want
it coming at you, or flying across the room...?
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Any tool can be dangerous.
Learning to properly use a buffer is part of knifemaking, and it's an important part.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill,
What is the right say to use a buffer. I would like to get a 1/3hp baldor at 1800 rpm.
Where is a good place to find it.
Should one always wear leather gloves when using a buffer?
Thanks ,
Jon
 
I got a great deal on a 3400 rpm buffer designed for 8 to 10 inch buffing wheels but it was too darned fast so I use 6 inch buffs and it works ok. I want to upgrade to a Baldor buffer but I would get the slower one for sure. I step back so my feet are not under the buffer because it has flung some blades. I am putting an aluminum shield behind the buffer but not under it because I figure it would throw a blade into the guard and ricochet into my tummy. To me buffers and angle grinders deserve some caution but I use them both. Larry
 
A buddy at www.knifedogs.com has a method to use a horizontal disc grinder with a round of shag carpet on it for final polishing that removes the need for a buffer and most of that danger.

Wayne Coe sells motors, controllers Grinders & such. I am sure he will gladly share his knowledge about this method, Its is quite abit safer than going through compounds on a 18-3600 rpm buffer from what he shares. As I stated, I don't use my buffer for that I use cork & Scotch bright belts.

If for some reason you can't find him? PM me if you like and I will get a direct email for Wayne.
 
ALWAYS:
keep work below the center line of the wheel.
Keep your fingers in a position that allows the work to be grabbed away without cutting/hitting your fingers.
hold work firmly
present the work so that no edges can be grabbed by the wheel
let the wheel do the work. Don't force it.
remember the compound is abrasive. Keep it out of your lungs.

Try to polish at 45 degree angles to previous polishing grit.
Keep buffs seperate from other grits.
You can go coarser in grit on a buff, but never finer.
I use cardboard hoods on my buffers. They won't cut you if your hand gets in there.


Still sleepy, but will be adding to this thread as thoughts occurr to me.
Don't expect the machine to do more than it can with a specific grit compound.
 
Thanks Bill,
This is really helpful.
Awaiting any other wisdom you can add.
As others have mentioned, will the wayne coe method on a horiz, disc grinder with shag carpet work?
Thanks,

Jon
 
Since I am working with knives in one fashion or another in my shop no matter the machine, I had a full thick cow hide apron made, Some have said that all I need is a hockey mask and chain saw! I wear boots too in the shop, No one in flip flops or without eye protection is allowed in the work are of my shop.

This apron hangs down past my knees so that my abdomen, family jewels and arteries etc in my groin and legs are protected from sharp flying objects. I suggest you get one or have one made, an apron always keeps your clothes clean.
 
You might look at the Baldors with the tapered spindle attachment. It makes it very easy and quick to change buffs.
 
Like with just about anything else, go slow when in doubt! The 1800 is more than enough. I am fortunate enough to have the new Burr King which is powered by a Baldor and it has variable speed. Pics of it in use are on my site if you are interested. Anyway, my point is that while we have all the power and speed available on that machine, it rarely runs at more than 50%.
Get a ton of wheels, and bunch of compounds. I can recommend good ones if you would like. And then make sure you don't contaminate a wheel with a compound from a more aggressive one. That just leads to pulling your hair out when you inadvertently start putting scratches into something!
Best of luck and let me know if there is any other way I can help.
 
I have 3 different buffers I use. They are all 3600 rpm. 1/2hp, the difference being the shaft length to accommodate different sizes of the item being polished. All are equipped with tapered spindles to accommodate any size buff. I use buffs and brushes from 1" to 6" inches, depending on the job. Here's a picture of my buffing set up.



Over the years I have used both 1725 and 3600 rpm buffing motors. The 3600 rpm buffers give a better choice of the final buff "speed". A persons's buffing technique is much more important than speed. I have found that 1/4 hp is the least hp necessary for buffing steel. The secret of buffing is to use the proper compound, with the proper buff speed and torque along with the pressure applied to the piece being polished.

It is VERY important to use proper safety equipment (Heavy apron and face shield) to prevent injury. When I first started polishing 40 years ago, I had a pendant get caught and thrown into my eye. Gave me traumatic glaucoma requiring an eye operation. Fast forward to 2 years ago. That same injury caused macular damage that required another surgery. My close depth perception was (is) shot. BE CAREFUL OUT THERE.
 
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