3M feathering disc adhesive

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May 27, 2013
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199
Hello,

I am sure some people here use the 3M feathering adhesive for their disc sanders to glue the sandpaper to the disc. I have heard and read good things about the adhesive. It seems to give you the option to apply a sheet of sand paper to the disc multiple times and remove the sheet easily.

Since I am curious about those things, I have read the safety data sheet for the feathering adhesive and I wanted to ask those makers who use it and have used it maybe for a longer time: do you take any precautions when using this adhesive (gloves, mask etc.)? I do not mean to scare anyone...the adhesive won't fatally poison you when you get it on your skin one time or anything like that, but it can have long-term exposure effects.

Also I am fully aware that almost anything we work with in knifemaking can have long-term effects on your health (the immediate health risks are mostly created by buffers I guess), but I was curious how you handle this item particularly.

Best regards
 
I don't. I treat it like contact cement. I don't really want it on me but I don't debride my fingers if it gets on me.
 
I don't like it for my disc grinder. I bought some, like most do, since it was offered and recommended. I still have half of the original tube I bought maybe 5-6 years ago, I use it on the drive (slip) pulley for my big power hammer, when I need it to have more "grab" lol, as an alternative to honey, which is the "classic" option. Works good for that, I found it to be a big time sink on the disc.

Instead, I highly recommend just using 3M 77 spray adhesive. Lightly spray the back of your sheet only, let it set for 30 seconds before you attach it to the disc, then, attach it, slap it all over (with your hand, to make sure it adheres well) then cut the excess off. This will stick well, without any fear of flying off or coming lose, when you're done with that paper, just pull it off, and as long as it hasn't been left on there for weeks, usually comes off leaving on a little residue on the disc, that you don't have to worry about cleaning off, until a large amount has built up. If you leave a piece of paper on there long enough, a lot of time when you go to remove it, some little pieces of the backing paper will stay on the disc, and you will want to clean it up before re-attaching.

To clean my discs, which are steel, I squirt goof off or goo gone or one of those adhesive removers all over the disc, let it sit a few minutes, then run the disc very slow and use a grey scotch brite pad if there's lots of stuff on it, folded and pressed hard against it, then a paper towel to clean up the rest. If I'm in a hurry, I'll spray some rubbing alcohol on it, to get the adhesive remover residue off, before gluing another sheet on.

I only have to do this clean up once every few weeks.
 
I don't like it either
in fact I'm not really even that fond of using the 9x11 sandpaper etc.
the 9x11 is about $1 each, the ceramic PSA discs are about $2.50 - $3.00 each
yes it's more expensive but it's what I personally prefer

with that said I do use the 9x11 when needed and I'm also a fan of the 3M 777
 
I also use the adhesive spray and really like it. In the past I would start the disk and lightly spray the surface of the disk with the spray. Then let it dry and stick the paper to it. Normally the paper will come right off leaving the sticky on the disk for more paper. Once it's sticky is used up I turn the disk on and use a dull edged something or other and scrap it off. Works really well becaus I was keeping every little cut of from the disk and did not want them sticky.
 
I don't like it either
in fact I'm not really even that fond of using the 9x11 sandpaper etc.
the 9x11 is about $1 each, the ceramic PSA discs are about $2.50 - $3.00 each
yes it's more expensive but it's what I personally prefer

with that said I do use the 9x11 when needed and I'm also a fan of the 3M 777

Ceramic or Zirc discs do make sense for course grits, they last way longer, and save time switching them out. On the other hand, for finer grits, they don't make sense, to me, just like belts, once you get above 120, nothing lasts any significant amount of time, and I consider ceramics to be a waste of money at this point. I go through fine grit paper (mostly 400-800) like crazy no matter what it is. Also, I get rhynowet red for about $0.50 per sheet fwiw, and it's the best I've used personally when it comes to fine grit sheets.


Edit: Using the neilson system, or multiple disc grinders, it really makes good sense to use premium PSA course grit abrasive, since you don't have to remove good paper to switch grits. I keep a disc with 60 or 80 grit, one with 120, and then use my other two discs for 400 or 800. The course grit ones last days, weeks or more, depending on what I'm making and how frequently I use it. The fine grits on the other hand, I may go through a dozen a day..

If you just have a single disc though, it may make sense to use whatever is cheapest when it comes to course grits, in the case that you may have to remove it to swap grits, it's trick to get them back on later.
 
When I fist got my disc grinder I started out using spray adhesive since it was all I had, which worked great but I ended up getting the feathering adhesive since it was recommended and seems to be made for it. The first time I went to apply it, it sprayed all over myself and my shop; apparently the disc was spinning just a tad too fast lol. Anyway, I found it difficult to get a nice, smooth layer of it on the disc as it seems to dry very quickly, or at least it's too dry to continue spreading smoothly over the disc which can leave ridges from the adhesive and also clump together if you don't time it just right, but maybe that's just me.

I haven't had to completely clean off my disc face and reapply it yet, but when I do I'll probably go back to the spray adhesive that I got from Michael's craft store.

Regarding using the ceramic PSA discs in the lower grits, I agree. They last way longer than low grit Rhynowet sheets. I do wish they were also sold without any PSA already on the back, as that can be a real pain to completely get off sometimes, plus it would make switching grits easier to do while also being able to reuse it. I simply kept the protective wax-type paper that covers the PSA on them, and just stuck that right on top of the feathering adhesive which seems to be working fine as I've taken them on and off a few times already. If for some reason the wax paper doesn't continue to stick to the paper, I'll try sticking something else over it, like maybe a piece of copy paper or the like which can then be put on disc with the spray or feathering adhesive.


~Paul
My YT Channel
Lsubslimed

... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
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I'm glad this thread came up! I too bought the 3M feathering disc glue because it was so highly recommended here. Maybe it's just me but I can't it get to stick to the disc. The paper just by itself comes unglued while idle. I'm hoping it was just me but sounds common.
 
I use 3M #77 A little goes a long way. I apply it only to the paper and stick it on the disc when tacky. If you apply it to both, you won't get the paper off. Spray it on outside with the paper sitting on a box or sheet of newspaper.

I haven't tried it, but have read that you can put a sheet of waxed paper on the sandpaper once it becomes tacky and store the paper for quick application later on.
Large zip-lock bags are great for storing sanding discs and sprayed sheets.
 
For me the 3M feathering disc adhesive works perfect! I put a nice amount on the disc and spread it carefully. I then wait until it gets tacky and then press my rhynowet sheet on it. I have never had a sheet get loose, neither when I'm using it nor when it's at rest.

When I change between sheets the adhesive completely sticks to the disc and not the sheet. It's magic. :D

So based on my experience with the feathering adhesive, I'd recommend it! :thumbsup:
 
I have had the same good results with the feathering disc cement as currenthill. I have the Neilson disc system .
Frank
 
I'm glad this thread came up! I too bought the 3M feathering disc glue because it was so highly recommended here. Maybe it's just me but I can't it get to stick to the disc. The paper just by itself comes unglued while idle. I'm hoping it was just me but sounds common.

I didn't have that problem, I just found it frustrating to get it to apply evenly (if you aren't *VERY* quick with a good technique, you get thick spots that I can feel when grinding), and inconsistent as to whether it would release the paper fully. Ultimately, 3m 77 was easier, and more consistent for me, plus it's locally available at a number of retail locations.
 
I didn't have that problem, I just found it frustrating to get it to apply evenly (if you aren't *VERY* quick with a good technique, you get thick spots that I can feel when grinding), and inconsistent as to whether it would release the paper fully. Ultimately, 3m 77 was easier, and more consistent for me, plus it's locally available at a number of retail locations.


^^ That's the exact issue I've encountered. You have to be careful not to put on too much or too little and spread it very quickly before it begins to solidify. I watched Nick Wheeler apply it so easily and perfectly (what else could you expect for him?:D) in one of his YT vids but it was a differnent story when I tried. The fact that it flung off the spinning disc and onto me the first time I tried to apply it doesn't help with my overall impression of it lol.

I'm not saying it doesn't work great, but like Javan mentioned, you need to have a bit of practice getting in on there just right. The problem is when you don't get it right it becomes a pain to clean on and reapply. There just seems to be less room for error with the spray. However, I don't think I'll completely give up on the feathering adhesive just yet since I'm pretty cheap and tend save every little cut-off of the sandpaper, so not having the spray on those pieces is a plus, but it's still not a big deal.

~Paul
My YT Channel
Lsubslimed

... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
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