52100 Millitary

Will do. If I can find the time this weekend I'll put it through its paces and see how it holds up. I first saw someone use the coffee patina here and thought I'd give it a try:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...bushcraft-camp-knives?highlight=coffee+patina

I'm sure there's an art to it, but my quick and dirty attempt worked out reasonably well.

on_the_edge said:
Well if you remember my questions a month or two from now and are willing to report back, I would love to hear how it is holding up. I have never heard of the instant coffee patina before. I think I'm going to have to do some research.
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Sounds like I missed the boat on a real gem of a Military... actually they're all gems!

I know the "production" burple S110V is coming. What else is on the horizon Military wise?

ETA - what ever happened to the K390 Millie?
 
That patina looks good ShanghaiJer. Even if the patina wears it'll fill in so quick & morph as you use it, you probably would never notice.

These should still be rolling in to dealers for a bit, I would think, quigibo.
 
ShanghaiJer said:
I took mine apart and gave the blade a strong instant coffee soak for ~3 days (changing the coffee each day). You just need to make sure you clean off all of the oil on the blade, otherwise there will be spots that don't darken. I probably should have soaked it for even longer, but I couldn't wait to start carrying/using the military. Now I just need to clean up the edge and tap it for tip up carry!

IMG_3212_zpseglsxn5w.jpg
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Thanks for the tips. Your blade looks awesome!



Don
 
I guess I have to put a patina on mine soon. Some small surface rust spots have started to appear on mine even though it is just left on the table. Mine was already coated with Ren wax. The local weather is not good for 51200.



Don
 
Spectre said:
52100 is good knife steel, but will rust if you look at it wrong.
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So you're saying anyone buying this Millie should invest in FrogLube CLP (or your favorite rust preventative du jour?)

Speaking of, for those that do have the 52100 Millie (or other 52100 blades) what rust prevention steps are you taking? I've been using Balistol but the possibility of it harming bronze washers has me wanting to change. I'm curious what has been working for others.
 
I have a custom 52100 blade. After it got rust spots, I cold blued it. I do have a Swamp Rat coated 52100 blade. I haven't used it much, but keep a good coating of oil on it.

Here's my Shane Justice Soldier's Knife after a fire mission in Afghanistan, early 2007.

5366157329_bccd3d17df.jpg


I was supporting 3rd Group at the time, so (unless brass was visiting our little fire base), got to wear whatever the hell I wanted...

5366690078_b8447f6828.jpg
 
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Hell if it rusts in Afghanistan it'll be nothing but powder by the time it gets delivered to me here in the midwest!
 
Oh no, sorry. A few little rust spots developed overnight on my knife before I left. I got them off, and cold blued before deployment.

shirleyspecial4.jpg


While talking about Afghanistan and rust, it bears mentioning that some places in Afghanistan get a LOT of snow during the winter.

Camp Phoenix, late Dec, 2006.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jinete_delViento/media/Christmas.jpg.html
My S30V Iraqi Freedom Native 2 got dropped during a night fire mission (most attacks against us happened at night), and stomped down into the mud. It had a few rust spots when I finally found it three days later, but those cleaned right off.
 
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Decided to give mine a patina treatment today. The new look on this blade is growing on me.



Don
 
Thanks. I used mustard and bubble wrap to achieve this pattern



Don
 
donscpoo said:
27999019166_1c8bc63774_b.jpg


Decided to give mine a patina treatment today. The new look on this blade is growing on me.



Don
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Did you disassemble the knife or only take the patina up to, but not under, the handles? And if you did disassemble the knife to patina the entire blade, have you noticed any change in opening or closing the blade?
 
on_the_edge said:
Did you disassemble the knife or only take the patina up to, but not under, the handles? And if you did disassemble the knife to patina the entire blade, have you noticed any change in opening or closing the blade?
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I did disassembled the knife and patina the entire blade.

27423582393_e30d139f42_b.jpg


The action has not changed. You can tune the pivot to your preference during assembly but will take a while to center the blade. Use loctite to set the pivot. The pivot was loctite so make sure you have a good set of tools to open it or you risk stripping the pivot screws. Or you might want to heat up the pivot area a little.



Don
 
I received mine around a week ago but this is my first experience with a knife that is so prone to corrosion. I wiped the blade down with tuff glide and am now storing it in a pelican case. Is there a risk of corrosion even if the knife is being stored away?
 
quigibo said:
Sounds like I missed the boat on a real gem of a Military... actually they're all gems!

I know the "production" burple S110V is coming. What else is on the horizon Military wise?

ETA - what ever happened to the K390 Millie?
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Knifeworks.com still have thier 204p exclusive available
 
I received mine around a week ago but this is my first experience with a knife that is so prone to corrosion. I wiped the blade down with tuff glide and am now storing it in a pelican case. Is there a risk of corrosion even if the knife is being stored away?
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Just me but I'm not crazy about storing corrosion prone stuff in closed P. cases. Any moisture that gets trapped in there when the case gets sealed up has no where to go. If you've got some sort of desiccant pack or something, be sure to toss that in the case before you close it up.

Otherwise if you wiped her down with T.G. she should be just fine in storage.

ETA - why are you storing a Millie anyway? Get out there and use that thing!
 
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