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8Cr13MoV vs 8Cr14MoV
- Thread starter drake225
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- Apr 10, 2000
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- 3,794
Slightly different - 8Cr13MoV vs 8Cr14MoV steel composition comparison.
haven't used either one of them, but later has a little more V and Cr in int. Should be more stain and wear resistant in theory, practically heat treatment from particular maker will be more important that those differences.
haven't used either one of them, but later has a little more V and Cr in int. Should be more stain and wear resistant in theory, practically heat treatment from particular maker will be more important that those differences.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2006
- Messages
- 42,197
The letters are for the elements. the numbers are for the %. the first number is for the decimal percent Carbon (0.8% Carbon).
So 8Cr14 MoV has 1% more chromium than 8Cr13MoV.
My expectation is that the 8Cr14MoV should be a bit more corrosion resistant and, if heat treated to the same hardness, should have about the same edge retention.
So 8Cr14 MoV has 1% more chromium than 8Cr13MoV.
My expectation is that the 8Cr14MoV should be a bit more corrosion resistant and, if heat treated to the same hardness, should have about the same edge retention.
strategy9
Gold Member
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From looking at a graph here
http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/steelgraph.php?nm=8cr13mov,8cr14mov,9cr13c
it would almost appear that 8c14 is in fact the same as (good) 8c13 just under tighter thresholds to better control the outcome is consistant at the upper end of the spectrum. The 8c13 ranges are pretty wide though, like if you make "good" 8c13, within the ranges allowed, you wind up with 8c14 (minus a wee bit of Ni.) But you could in theory, within those thresholds, possibly make a "better" 13 then 14 and still within the 13's limits.
My (very basic) take on that is, they are really so close, provided the treatment was done right, an 8c14mov is just an insured good 8c13mov, but an 8c13mov "could" be every bit just as good, could be slightly better even, but could also be a tad bit worse for performance... There's more wiggle room in the % thresholds.
I have 2 crkt's in 8c13, and I like the free range as an edc; the 111 z's handle is just too small in my hand. But for an edc, they get real sharp real easy, need some touch ups but I don't mind, but also as an edc (work) they're cheapo Chinese production blades, <$20 so I don't mind abusing em a bit, getting em dirty, and if they would break, no real harm done... My $20 crkt is MILES ahead as an edc beater then any $20 Walmart Gerber has ever been.
Edit - as a decent budget steel, I'd put it on par (in my crkt's at least) right there on par with a production Buck 420hc. Or a decent aus8. Not near as stain resistant as the 420hc, but they hold a sharper edge for a tad bit longer. All 3 are The lowest end steels I'd buy in a blade, but for a budget blade, those 3 when done right, aren't too shabby despite their limitations.
http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/steelgraph.php?nm=8cr13mov,8cr14mov,9cr13c
it would almost appear that 8c14 is in fact the same as (good) 8c13 just under tighter thresholds to better control the outcome is consistant at the upper end of the spectrum. The 8c13 ranges are pretty wide though, like if you make "good" 8c13, within the ranges allowed, you wind up with 8c14 (minus a wee bit of Ni.) But you could in theory, within those thresholds, possibly make a "better" 13 then 14 and still within the 13's limits.
My (very basic) take on that is, they are really so close, provided the treatment was done right, an 8c14mov is just an insured good 8c13mov, but an 8c13mov "could" be every bit just as good, could be slightly better even, but could also be a tad bit worse for performance... There's more wiggle room in the % thresholds.
I have 2 crkt's in 8c13, and I like the free range as an edc; the 111 z's handle is just too small in my hand. But for an edc, they get real sharp real easy, need some touch ups but I don't mind, but also as an edc (work) they're cheapo Chinese production blades, <$20 so I don't mind abusing em a bit, getting em dirty, and if they would break, no real harm done... My $20 crkt is MILES ahead as an edc beater then any $20 Walmart Gerber has ever been.
Edit - as a decent budget steel, I'd put it on par (in my crkt's at least) right there on par with a production Buck 420hc. Or a decent aus8. Not near as stain resistant as the 420hc, but they hold a sharper edge for a tad bit longer. All 3 are The lowest end steels I'd buy in a blade, but for a budget blade, those 3 when done right, aren't too shabby despite their limitations.
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