8Cr14MoV is ?

A

audiopile

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Ok - so it's a Chinese blade steel - but has anyone got any expereience with 8Cr14MoV ? Not interested in how many angels can dance on a pin made out of it . I know it's "new" - still- anyone cut much of anything with a blade made out of it. Edge retention? Re-sharpens how well or badly ?
Thanks for any info.
 
I've used it extensively...its the only steel that Ive cut a finger off with...did a mighty fine job too might I add...don't worry, I recovered...lock backs are not designed for stabbing. Remember that.

Its about like AUS-8, maybe a bit harder. Its easier to sharpen than VG10 or S30V and it has about 80% of the edge retention qualities.

I personally like it. Anymore here are my only viable picks for knife steels and my impressions of them (Im no metallurgist):

AUS-8, easy to sharpen, will take a really sharp edge, but will need maintenance, nice choice for a well used EDC like any of the Sog Arc-locks

154CM - Nice hard steel, capable of a hair popping edge on a thin blade. Medium sharpening difficult, but it holds the edge well.

VG-10 - In my opinion, VG-10 is still near the top of the heap, but I have more edge chipping with VG-10 than any other steel. Its hard, its sharp, but its relatively brittle in my use. Still love it.

8Cr14MoV - For the knives that come with it, you get a nice blade for the cost. Its a vast improvement over most American carbon steel knives of the same price range. Excellent using knife, refining the edge after use is rather simple.

S30V - Hard as nails to sharpen, hard as nails to dull. I love this stuff, but sharpening it requires the patience of a zen master. If you have trouble sharpening knives, stay away. If you can make a butter knife slice molecules, go buy 5.

D2 - Bar none the hardest steel to sharpen I've found, if you want a steel thats just a hair wimpier than Wolverines skeleton, get a big chopper made with D2. Assuming you can get an edge on it, you'll love it. Same story as S30V - not for the sharpening challenged.

A-2 - The sleeper of the bunch, this stuff is amazing. This stuff takes a wicked convex and holy geezus will it cut.
 
8Cr14MoV or 8Cr13MoV are decent steels for the money. Especially the way,
(8Cr13MoV) is used in the Spyderco Byrd line of knives.
 
I have a Cara Cara (Byrd) and a Tenacious (Sypderco) in 8Cr13MoV and I find it holds its on against the much ballywhoed knife steels. I like it and when you consider the cost differential...hard not to love it. Here is some info to is enlightning.

http://www.cutleryscience.com/reviews/blade_materials.html#S_8C13CrMoV

The Meadowlark was significantly outperformed by a Manix (S30V) in slicing aggression on cardboard but ahead of a Point Guard from CRKT (420J2). The Meadowlark matched the performance of a small Sebenza (S30V) in push cutting sharpness while slicing cardboard but again was significantly behind for slicing aggression. The Meadowlark did match a Pacific Salt (H1) for slicing aggression on cardboard. Slicing used carpet, the Meadowlark was not significantly behind a Paramilitary for slicing aggression. Whittling plywood, The Meadowlark had a slight advantage in edge retention on both the push and slice over a Pacific Salt t and a major advantage over the small Sebenza which had durability problems.

On used carpet the Cara Cara was was comparable in performance to a UK Pen (S30V) and Dozier K2 (D2), and was outperformed significantly by several very hard tool steel blades. However the serrated section was among the top showing the advantage of geometry as well as steel in edge retention. The Cara Cara was also used for some heavy prying in woods where it showed a solid combination of strength and durability. The Finch was compared to a no-name chinese knife on slicing cardboard and showed significantly better extended slicing aggression however the angles were too difference to benchmark the steel.

Summary : 8C13CrMoV is basically an upgrade to 13C26 in terms of wear resistance while reducing edge stability. Thus it offers better extended slicing aggression though lower optimal push cutting sharpness and high sharpness edge retention.

On Sandvik 13C26: 13C26 is designed as a razor blade steel it sets a high standard for edge stability and is thus an ideal stainless steel for those who desire a high initial sharpness and keep their blades very sharp.
 
my meadowlark gave me hell to sharpen on sandpaper, dunno why, must be the grind

but just today i got a spyderco sharpmaker and now it pops the hairs off my arm

dunno about edge retention and all that, the knife is a user, but i still havent used it much, and certainly not today when it got the new ultrasharp edge
 
Flatlander1963 said:
On Sandvik 13C26: 13C26 is designed as a razor blade steel it sets a high standard for edge stability and is thus an ideal stainless steel for those who desire a high initial sharpness and keep their blades very sharp.
Click to expand...

That's about the best description I've seen for the performance of 13C26.
 
knarfeng said:
That's about the best description I've seen for the performance of 13C26.
Click to expand...
When we realistically look at the properties of a steels instead of hyping them up or looking at them in terms of good and bad then we can realistically select one for an application. 13C26 is definitely for those looking for high edge stability.
 
8CR13MoV for instance is comparable to AUS-8 but 8CR13MoV contains a slightly higher carbon content, AUS-8 is comparable to 440B with a carbon content close to 0.75% and is usually used instead of 440C, now 440C has highest carbon content in 440 group AND is considered to be quite high end stainless steel. So I guess that makes AUS-8 the golden middleman :p The MoV series of steels are all chinese but not junk steel that is if you ignore 3, 6 and 7 CR13's. So I guess it's a good enough blade steel.
 
8Cr14 performs like AUS-8, with less corrosion resistance. If properly heat treated, you will not be disappointed with the steel, unless you are accustomed to higher end steels, like S30V or VG-10 or above. I think 8Cr14 may have slightly better wear resistance than AUS-8, but if it does the difference is negligible.
 
Cold Kill said:
8Cr14 performs like AUS-8, with less corrosion resistance. If properly heat treated, you will not be disappointed with the steel, unless you are accustomed to higher end steels, like S30V or VG-10 or above. I think 8Cr14 may have slightly better wear resistance than AUS-8, but if it does the difference is negligible.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about that? I'd like to know where that information came from. What source are you paraphrasing?
 
I has that steel on my Spyderco Tenacious, and imo it sucks something gross. It rusts even if you take good care of it (cleaning, oiling, stropping etc...) and it doesnt hold an edge at all. dont use it like i said. it sucks something gross.
 
J-Curd....you got my attention on the "stabbing" comment. When you have time could you please elaborate....educate me....if you will? thanks
 
dan oliver said:
J-Curd....you got my attention on the "stabbing" comment. When you have time could you please elaborate....educate me....if you will? thanks
Click to expand...

I wonder if he still remembers.

He made that comment 3 years ago.



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