9 volt battery and steel wool

Joined
Dec 19, 1998
Messages
244
a friend suggested this fire starting method to me . Has anyone tried this? is it more reliable than cottonballs and vaseline?
 
I do not know about reliability, but Ron shows this on his tapes--using 2 pieces of snare wire in the bulb socket (holes) of a mini-mag light (2 Double A's), and with a lantern battery. Very fine (0000) steel wool is the key. He also shows it works fine with a metal match. I only have 000. It works, but so-so.

Real cotton balls work fine, and I tried coating with vaseline. Just pull it apart a little, use your sparker, and it burns for quite a while.

With respect to reliability I wonder if steel wool will start if it is wet?
 
Works like a champ. I hadnt tried it till I saw Rons video on Spark Based Firemaking. As Donald said, Ron uses the snare wire and a flashlight in the video, but I tried it with a 9 volt and just used the steel wool across the terminals and had instant fire.

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www.simonichknives.com
 
Hi Budman

the 0000 steel wool works great. Just stretch it out and touch one end to each end of the battery. Realize though that it is not a longlasting tinder and is best when used with another tinder.

Also (a little trick) you can line a birds nest of lichen or cedar bark (prepared right) with steel wool to increase results. It will provide a larger ember and ignit the tinder faster. I also use cattail down for this.

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Greg Davenport
http://www.ssurvival.com
Are You Ready For The Challenge?
Are You Ready To Learn The Art Of Wilderness Survival?

 
deleted.

[This message has been edited by jrf (edited 12-26-2000).]
 
I have experimented with this problem and will make the following statements about using steel wool and battery/ies to start a fire.

In my testing it is difficult to ignite steel wool(no matter how fine) using a single "D" cell battery (the 1.5 Volt types used in the common flashlight). Using a 1.5volt battery ,I have applied 1.5 amps into fine loosely bunched steel wool and got NO visible sparks no matter how long they were kept in contact. Lightly dragging them across each other produced an occasional weak spark even though 1.5 amps of current flowed.
The potential was raised to 3.0 volts (2 "D" cells) and a sustainable ember was created with only 0.4 amps of current. At 4.5 volts the embers started immediately with approximately 0.27 amps. At 6, 9 and 12 volts the ember formation was immediate with little current draw.

For my testing I used two 7 cm long sections of stainless steel snare wire with the free ends placed approximately 3mm apart. This was done to ensure the minimum resistance in the steel wools and hence the fastest heat build up. The other ends of the wires were attached to the terminals of the batteries.

The steel wool should be very loosely bunched. If you grab a small bundle of steel wool and tug it loose from the rest it will be as tight as it should be bunched. Drag the very end of the steel wool fibers across the ends of the wires. The ember will begin immediately.

You should have prepared a nest with either more loosely bound steel wool or other fine tinder/ charcloth etc very close to the point where you start the ember in the steel wool. As soon as it starts glowing deposit it into the nest and depending upon how it is going you may want to gently blow on it although gnerally thisis not necessary.

As to a recommendation, I would say to use the highest voltage you can easily generate. A 2 cell flashllight should do the job and you should be able(with some care) to break the bulb and use the filaments as the close spacing into which you want to touch the steel wool. I would recommend that you try to get to at least 6 volts for the best chance of certain sucess and that you keep the spacing between the points of contact to less than 6mm. Use loose steel wool of the smallest size available.

If practical try to SERIES connect more cells together. I tend to not recommend that you parallel cells unless you are certain that they are in good shape as one bad cell can drag down all of the good cells and leave you with nothing. Since the problem is one of getting power into the steel wool, who for all intend and purposes is a fixed resistance, the best way to achieve that is with more voltage ( series connections).

Series connections are easly to accomplish with flashlight batteries since you simply keep adding them end on end as they are in the flashlight (ie plus to minus, plus to minus). A simple battery holders can be formed by lashing the stack of batteries between to sticks or placing them in a split in a log, etc., etc..

My experimentation with scouring pads show that if there is much soap in it (like when new) you cannot get them to ignite. Used souring pads are better and if they are sort of rusty, then rub it around on itself and then pull loosely bound fibers from the pad.
 
Hi Guys...

Another twist to this,, is to use a pencil lead..
Although it takes a bunch more current to produce a glow,, it does work...

This could be used in conjunction with a car 12 volt batt. The thinner the lead,, the less voltage in needs....

My dad once made a permenant match with a doorbell transformer a soup can and a frew other small items.
The wand was dipped in kerosene and dragged across the metal to produce spark,with ignited the kerosene,

This was used to light candles when matches were hard to come by...

ttyle Eric....

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Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel

 
just a note of caution about the steel wool,
try to be carefull pulling it apart, i gave myself a really nasty evil cut that way once.
I was pulling a bit of steel wool out, and ended up with just one steel fiber across my finger, and when i pulled(i wasnt watching) it sank into the flesh of my finger, leaving a nasty, painful, slow to heal cut.
so, make sure you kinda 'pinch' and pull the steel wool, as opposed to hooking a finger in it and pulling
smile.gif


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AKTI member #A000911

 
I've found a propane torch works great after using it on several brush fires here at home.The neighbor was a little surprised but hey the bigger the fire the bigger the lighter.
The 9 volt battery and steel wool works good. Just make sure you have a good battery. Whats generating the heat for you is the high resistance of the steel wool and the voltage of the battery forcing electricity through the steel wool. So always go with the finest steel wool you can find and make sure the battery is fairly new.
Try the torch too.They're great!

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
Donald,
Steel wool won't work when wet, the water conducts electricity as well, but since steel doesn't actually absorb water, you can normally shake steel wool out enough to dry it for fire starting use.

Other metal/battery possibilities --

Car battery and very fine wire, or individual strands of 'braided' wire

Plane battery and same

This concept needn't be limited to the stuff in your kit. Unless your on foot, there's a good chance you can use this technique to start a fire.

Stryver
 
Stryver,

Thanks for the info. I guess this quick drying might be a good reason to have a pinch of steel wool along. Of course, similar arguments could be made for bringing one of those magnesium bar/flint combos along. If I recall correctly, from my Friday night excursion to Borders Bookstore, Barry Davie, SAS Encyclopedia of Survival, ©1999 liked those.

If he reads this, I wonder what Greg thinks of those combo bars? I know he sells a nice big metal match.

Additionally, since you mentioned a high carbon striker in another post, what do you know about old fashioned tinder boxes? If I learned anything about these on a trip to Williamsburg, VA, I have forgotten. I remember vague recollections of references to them in stories where someone struck a spark into their tinder box to light a candle or pipe.
 
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