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The GEC site is SO clunky! Can anyone reccomend a better site to view all their different frames?
A 2016 Forum Knife. An apology, and The Crossroads!
- Thread starter waynorth
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The GEC site is SO clunky! Can anyone reccomend a better site to view all their different frames?
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My pleasure, I hope that you find one you like :thumbup:
Something along this line EE single spring 3.5"
Here's an old Robeson to ponder...
These would get my vote for the time being. Though I reserve the right to to fully change my opinion multiple time as the wind blows on any given day. Or multiple times a day.
But for now, an equal ended long pull spear with tool on opposite end sounds awesome. And I know the cap lifter has been done, but I still like it. An awl or punch could be negotiated though.
Just my $0.02.
Thanks for listening.
Jim
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Actually I got that wrong, of the ones I have currently, swaybacks are in the majority
Certainly by no means ubiquitous though :thumbup:
Here's a quick counter-top pic, apologies for the poor quality. It shows some different Lambsfoot knives with some different GEC knives to give an idea of the frame sizes in comparison. Of the GEC frames I have examples of, obviously the serpentine frames are out, as is the bullet end '85, and the 22 and 25 are too small. The 47 frame isn't over-large compared to the larger Lambsfoot knives, but would give a knife with a blade close to 3" I think. Both the 15 and 77 compare well to the smaller Lambsfoot styles :thumbup:
tdkfm
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What benefit does a lambs foot have over a wharnie? Seems like the same uses but you lose the better tip with the lambs. I feel like this is the reason you don't see many lambs foot knives. An equal end with spear and wharnie would cover all grounds blade wise to me. Imagine the 92 talon wharnie and the 85 spear blade together.
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Well before you comment on a knife's design it usually helps to use one first, then you can have an INFORMED opinion :thumbup: In Britain, Lambsfoot knives have been massively popular for a very long time, far more so than the Wharncliffe knife )and other knives with a similar blade shape), which also originated here. The reasons why the Lambsfoot has historically been much less popular in the US have been discussed here in numerous threads over the years, for example in Carl's excellent thread here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...foot-and-the-spear-American-and-English-taste .
Plenty of posters here on The Porch have used knives with both Lambsfoot and Wharncliffe blades, and I am one of them. I prefer the Lambsfoot, and know a number of other long-standing members here who feel the same. The Lambsfoot has a stronger point than the Wharncliffe, while at least matching (and in my opinion) surpassing the Wharncliffe for fine detail work. Of the three basic straight-edge blades, I consider the Lambsfoot the most versatile, and also the best (losing out only to a large Sheepsfoot for heavy cutting duties). You should give one a try, and like many who have, you may well be surprised :thumbup:
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The lambsfoot is more robust than a Wharncliffe. Every once in a while I read a post about some person breaking the tip off a Wharncliffe. Not likely with a lambsfoot. The point is supported by more steel.
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If we do a lambsfoot, I think my first choice would be for a 3.5" version of the 47. I'm not sure about my second choice.... it seems like the 47 might be a good match for the larger examples but I tend to prefer a smaller size for a full length straight edge blade like a sheepfoot or lambfoot or Wharncliffe.
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I like the lambsfoot much more than the Wharncliffe.
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Very true Frank, out of the many old Lambsfoot knives I come across, I do come across the odd one where the point has been rounded, but in my experience they will take a great deal more abuse than a Wharncliffe, and abuse is what has probably occurred (people using them to open paint tins, etc). I also find the corner of the Lamsfoot spine, where it drops to the point, can be a useful tool in itself, whereas on a Wharncliffe there is so little steel at the same point that it cannot be used in the same way. I've never seen a bent Lambsfoot blade, whereas I have seen Wharncliffe blades which had been bent, and plenty with broken tips.
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In some ways, I think there's a bit of a recent Wharncliffe craze. There was a time when they were uncommon among production knives and everyone wanted them. GEC seems to favor them a lot. I think they work well on some patterns (Case Norfolk). I don't care for some of the Wharncliffe blades from GEC like the long skinny Wharncliffe blade on the Northwoods Norfolk or the huge (cumbersome) arching Wharncliffe on the Northwoods 38. Others are OK. I think 3.5 inches is my preferred size for a knife with a full length Wharncliffe blade. The Case mini Wharncliffe trapper is a nice size. 3 3/4" would probably be OK though. A bull-head and "furtaker" is something that I think GEC will likely do since they did regular production runs of those patterns on their larger equal end.
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I like this blade style and knife in general! Mr Wolfe knocked it outa the park! I know it's out of the budget but something similar would be great!
I'm a fairly new member and don't expect my opinion to count, but I really don't care for the lambs foot look! And a bottle opener would be cool!
I'm a fairly new member and don't expect my opinion to count, but I really don't care for the lambs foot look! And a bottle opener would be cool!
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If you like regular jacks, then you might look at GEC's #15 and #77 patterns. There are probably still a few available from some dealers even though they were run a while back. I doubt an interframe would be anywhere close to our budget. A more basic regular jack or the bottle opener might be options for the forum knife.
tdkfm
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That's why I asked the question on a knife board. Was hoping for an answer. I guess a condescending answer is still an answer, so I will take what I can get.
Thanks for the other answers everyone. I honestly wasn't sure.
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:thumbup:
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Easy Tiger!
You didn't just ask a question, you made a statement:(My emphasis)
It was the statement that the first sentence of my post addressed. The rest of the two paragraphs replied to your question. I'm sorry if you feel my reply was condescending, but I went to the trouble of trying to explain what was wrong with your statement, and answer your question, at some length, and as someone who uses a Lambsfoot blade. If you're not happy with the answer, fair enough, but if I'd been condescending, I can assure you you'd have got a much shorter reply :thumbup:
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is there some reason why a swedged (single or double) sheepsfoot wouldn't work? it would seem to be a bit different on a 3 3/4" equal end. an awl would be the perfect companion for it. another thought would be something in the style of some of the case sheepcliffe blades; an excellent example is shown in a thread on the redness of case bone, post #36 of -case "Dark red" bone- in the traditional forums. Jack i'm sorry you don't like two blades supported by a single spring,i think they look grand as long as the spring is wide enough. it speaks to me of confidence in your knife, of strength. i don't know if that's clear at all, but i think you can tell i like single spring knives and lets face it : they do keep a lower profile in the pocket. a sheepfoot that sat low in the frame with a nice long or medium pull would be a very comfy ride in my pocket.(especially with an awl awl right i'll quit harping, i don't want to get punched for leaning too hard in the harness). SupraT or anyone else have pics,or old ads/catalogs with equal ends that have a clip or other blade,aside from a spear? thanks, Neal
. another thought would be something in the style of some of the case sheepcliffe blades; an excellent example is shown in a thread on the redness of case bone, post #36 of -case "Dark red" bone- in the traditional forums. Jack i'm sorry you don't like two blades supported by a single spring,i think they look grand as long as the spring is wide enough. it speaks to me of confidence in your knife, of strength. i don't know if that's clear at all, but i think you can tell i like single spring knives and lets face it : they do keep a lower profile in the pocket. a sheepfoot that sat low in the frame with a nice long or medium pull would be a very comfy ride in my pocket.(especially with an awl awl right i'll quit harping, i don't want to get punched for leaning too hard in the harness). SupraT or anyone else have pics,or old ads/catalogs with equal ends that have a clip or other blade,aside from a spear? thanks, Neal
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I have to admit a lot of that is just down to personal preference Neal
Of course I do have knives of this type, but have always thought they were kind of flawed from an engineering point of view, since if the spring breaks, that's your knife completely gone. I don't want to over-emphasise that point though, since springs break so rarely. However, I've noted in the past that when posters have complained here about blade-rub on GEC knives of this type, they've been told that blade-rub comes with the design. I don't agree with that, I think it's a fault, but it's another reason I'm wary of 2-blade single-spring knives which are factory produced :thumbup:Easy Tiger!
(My emphasis)
It was the statement that the first sentence of my post addressed. The rest of the two paragraphs replied to your question. I'm sorry if you feel my reply was condescending, but I went to the trouble of trying to explain what was wrong with your statement, and answer your question, at some length, and as someone who uses a Lambsfoot blade. If you're not happy with the answer, fair enough, but if I'd been condescending, I can assure you you'd have got a much shorter reply :thumbup:
C'mon Jack you have been coming on very strong in this and other threads. Obviously you want a lambsfoot "forum knife" which you have voiced on this and other threads, but ease up a bit and quit firing on people who might want something else. Sheesh.
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Regarding rub... I think some folks push the blades against each other instead of pulling straight up. I remember some guy said he went to a store and had the sales lady remove dozens of knives from their packaging and he opened each one and found them unsatisfactory because the blades rubbed. Gives me CHILLS since I suspect that he probably pushed on all the blades and scratched them up for the next guy!! Now there are some problems with rub that are not caused by user error. But honestly I think most of the complaints about blade rub are the fault of the user. If the blades aren't touching anything then they won't rub unless you press on them. Sure I have knives with scratches on them because I've pushed the blades together but I don't blame the manufacturer.
I do like single springs. They are a more elegant and efficient design. A two spring with a short secondary has a lot of wasted space. Since we've pretty much decided that we're going with a knife from GEC, I think we shouldn't have a problem with a single spring knife. They do good work.
Regarding other blades on an equal end... Clip points are common enough that there should be a ton of them in the old catalogs thread sticky. A full length sheepfoot is uncommon but here are a couple examples....
Edit: Here's an equal end with TWO clip blades...
I do like single springs. They are a more elegant and efficient design. A two spring with a short secondary has a lot of wasted space. Since we've pretty much decided that we're going with a knife from GEC, I think we shouldn't have a problem with a single spring knife. They do good work.
Regarding other blades on an equal end... Clip points are common enough that there should be a ton of them in the old catalogs thread sticky. A full length sheepfoot is uncommon but here are a couple examples....
Edit: Here's an equal end with TWO clip blades...
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