A couple 501 questions

mnblade

mnblade

Joined
Feb 7, 2000
Messages
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Guys, Back in high school (mid '80s), Dad gave me a 501. Some jerk stole it out of my locker during football practice. Still mad about that. :mad: Lately, I've been feeling nostalgic and thinking about finally getting a replacement. I have a couple questions ....

First, What years were they made with wood (not DymaLux) handles?

Second, I might decide to go the Custom Shop route. The question is: To rivet or not rivet. I really like the clean look of no rivets. Thoughts?
 
According to an article in BCCI newletter December 2003, by Greg Smith the 501 handle material form 1975-1980 was Buckarta(maroon micarta). 1981-2003 was impregnated birch. I would have to go back in the catalogs to see if the Dymalux started after 2003.

The custom shop has jigged bone(and others)...from what I've seen the 501 looks real good dressed up in that. I think a seach would turn up threads with 501s in different covers. HTH.

ETA, the 2004 and 2007 catalogs just say woodgrain for the handle material...
 
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Buck switched from real ebony to the laminate type in the mid 1990s. I don’t know the exact year, maybe 94 or 95. I had read a history piece recently but I can’t recall if it was in bcci or a link someone here on the forum posted. I will check a bit more. In the custom shop you are likely to get some real nice looking ebony and you can also get an s30v blade if you want even better edge holding than standard 420hc which isn’t that bad really. For myself I like rivets because they seem to keep the wear off the scales and I think it helps me have a better slip resistant grip. I think it’s a personal preference so what ever you like is what you should probably get.

I’m sorry, I mistakenly forgot about the 500 series having micarta and the other types of covers in the earlier models. And it looks like the custom shop doesn’t have ebony but some other types of wood.
 
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You can get one S35VN if you want..That is my absolute favorite Super steel. I have a new appreachion for the 501 especially bareheaded. It can handle cutting chores you might think you need a bigger knife for.
 
Similar story here, I was given a 501 from my father in the 80s. I lost it while playing backyard football (I think). Also still mad :mad:

It took me a little time to get over it and buy another, this 1991 model (top). More recently I picked up an older 501 that is closer to the original I lost.

These are my favorite model knife and I carry one daily. Most of mine have pins, but with nice covers like custom shop choices I lean toward no pins.

Buck%2BSqire%2BEsquire%2B501%2B-%2B02.jpg
 
I'd go with pins for one reason:

All the glues I've used over the decades (with the sole exception of Testor's Red tube plastic model glue, back when I assembled plastic model cars n' trucks.) eventually stopped working. (includes the glues pre-applied to cellophane tape and double sided cellophane and foam tape, and automotive upholstery glues, when I did auto body repair.)

Therefore, I don't trust glue alone to keep the covers on a knife long term ... especially if it is a "user" and not a shelf king or safe queen.
 
Lesknife said:
Buck switched from real ebony to the laminate type in the mid 1990s. I don’t know the exact year, maybe 94 or 95. I had read a history piece recently but I can’t recall if it was in bcci or a link someone here on the forum posted. I will check a bit more. In the custom shop you are likely to get some real nice looking ebony and you can also get an s30v blade if you want even better edge holding than standard 420hc which isn’t that bad really. For myself I like rivets because they seem to keep the wear off the scales and I think it helps me have a better slip resistant grip. I think it’s a personal preference so what ever you like is what you should probably get.

I’m sorry, I mistakenly forgot about the 500 series having micarta and the other types of covers in the earlier models. And it looks like the custom shop doesn’t have ebony but some other types of wood.
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I havent ever heard of ebony on a 501, and it is not available for it in the custom shop either.
 
st8yd said:
I havent ever heard of ebony on a 501, and it is not available for it in the custom shop either.
Click to expand...

yes if you notice at the bottom I corrected/ edited it shortly after posting it. My apologies.
 
afishhunter said:
I'd go with pins for one reason:

All the glues I've used over the decades (with the sole exception of Testor's Red tube plastic model glue, back when I assembled plastic model cars n' trucks.) eventually stopped working. (includes the glues pre-applied to cellophane tape and double sided cellophane and foam tape, and automotive upholstery glues, when I did auto body repair.)

Therefore, I don't trust glue alone to keep the covers on a knife long term ... especially if it is a "user" and not a shelf king or safe queen.
Click to expand...

That's what I sort of figured. I'm drawn to the clean look of no rivets, but with rivets there'd be less (read: zero) chance of the scales coming loose or off.
 
The custom shop is definitely an option to think about. I mostly get the rivets, but when I eventually get a burlwood and an elk version I'll be leaving them off...
 
mnblade said:
That's what I sort of figured. I'm drawn to the clean look of no rivets, but with rivets there'd be less (read: zero) chance of the scales coming loose or off.
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They can still get a little loose, but they ain't coming off with the rivets...
 
JD Bear said:
They can still get a little loose, but they ain't coming off with the rivets...
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My most carried 503 has loose scales. Any suggestions on how to tighten the rivets? I would try to peen them but haven't found a way to support the backside of the rivet on the inside the liner. Sending it to Buck is an option, but would rather (try to) fix it myself.
 
plb said:
My most carried 503 has loose scales. Any suggestions on how to tighten the rivets? I would try to peen them but haven't found a way to support the backside of the rivet on the inside the liner. Sending it to Buck is an option, but would rather (try to) fix it myself.
Click to expand...

I tried peening the pins, but I'm not really the type that enjoys hitting my knives with a hammer. I sent one directly to Jeff H. and he got me a replacement...but that one is loose on one side again and I just deal with it. I've used the oak scale one I got from the custom shop more than any other and it's held up great.
 
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