A couple tips on hidden tang construction

[Bruce Bump]

Thanks, Bruce! I have never seen that spring trick.
Is that the BurlSource wood?
In your spare time you could crochet with that broach

Yep thats my free block from BurlSource. I think its Buckeye Burl? It is yellow and grey.
In my spare time I am on the computer or asleep

 

[bobbywett]

Be sure to tape the blade and wear gloves to prevent stabbing your palm with the tip while compressing the spring. Also hold onto the blade when releasing the vice to prevent missile launch.

I will do my best to follow this admonition Bruce, but if I forget, I can't say I wasn't warned....

 

[Allen Newberry]

Thanks for putting this together! It is aways nice to see how others do things. I guess I will have to think about making one of your glue up vises.

 

[Bruce Bump]

I took the knife out of the clamps this morning and will show a basic contour on the handle and guard. I use a dremel to make the radious on the spacers and guard. A round file will work too but my body is a temple and I'm not going to wear it out.

 

[69_knives]

Man, that is a great set of tips. Much appreciated! Thanks for sharing.

 

[NickWheeler]

A round file will work too but my body is a temple and I'm not going to wear it out.

Priceless!!!

 

[Burl Source]

Yep thats my free block from BurlSource. I think its Buckeye Burl? It is yellow and grey.
In my spare time I am on the computer or asleep

Hi Bruce,
The block is California Buckeye burl. The knife is looking great! I sure would like to see what it looks like when it is finished. Some of the other guys have been posting their finished knives for the evaluation at http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=657727
Thanks for everything. Mark

 

[photonjunkie]

Bruce, this is a great thread with a lot of useful tips! Thanks for taking the time to do this.

If you don't mind, I have some newbie questions:

- How close of a fit should the tang be in the handle (before epoxying)? Should it be tight on the sides but with a little space on the top and bottom for minor adjustments?

- Also, any guidelines as to how long the tang should be? I've been thinking about trying a hidden tang for a small knife but it's difficult finding a long, narrow drill bit (1/8" or less). I thought about drilling a hole with a larger bit just to start, then cutting out a narrow channel with a tool similar to your broach.

 

[Bruce Bump]

Bruce, this is a great thread with a lot of useful tips! Thanks for taking the time to do this.

If you don't mind, I have some newbie questions:

- How close of a fit should the tang be in the handle (before epoxying)? Should it be tight on the sides but with a little space on the top and bottom for minor adjustments?

- Also, any guidelines as to how long the tang should be? I've been thinking about trying a hidden tang for a small knife but it's difficult finding a long, narrow drill bit (1/8" or less). I thought about drilling a hole with a larger bit just to start, then cutting out a narrow channel with a tool similar to your broach.

The tang should fit as close as practical. I used to hog it out and fill it with epoxy but once in awhile I would grind into the cavity when shaping the handle.
I use a small but long drill bit and drill 2 holes as deep as the tang is long. I can connect the two holes with the drill and finish up with the broach. Be sure to remove enough handle material so the blade sits straight and parallel with the handle so there is no gap at the spacers.

I like to have the tang 3/4 the length of the handle

 

[loftin]

Much appreciated instructions and techniques thank you sir

 

[ddavelarsen]

This is good stuff Bruce, as always. :thumbup: My homemade broach is not as small and practical as yours. I ground away most of a rasp, and put a walnut handle on it. Works well but I cannot get it into as small of holes as yours will go into. Back to the drawing board! Thanks a million!

 

[James_Terrio]

Thanks as always, Bruce. We appreciate these kind of tips. Threaded rod is definitely on my list the next time I go to the hardware store so I can make a clamp like yours. Clamping in the vise and using lots of rubber bands does work but, I like your method better.

 

[Shawn fu]

Thanks for taking the time,Bruce.Tips are always welcome.
Now I want to go out into the shop and work on those hidden tangs I've been putting off.

 

[Bruce Bump]

I have the knife shaped and some good pictures too but have to go shopping with momma now.
I sanded it down and put a superglue finish on the handle. It is very durable and smooth as a babys behind too.
Pictures next.

 

[Tom Lewis]

Thanks Bruce! Your pictures are excellent and you have a good way of explaining things. Have you ever thought of putting these tutorials in book form? I think I have every knifemaking book ever written and I think you could make a book that could top them. I know I would buy a copy if you came out with a book.

 

[Bruce Bump]

Thanks Bruce! Your pictures are excellent and you have a good way of explaining things. Have you ever thought of putting these tutorials in book form? I think I have every knifemaking book ever written and I think you could make a book that could top them. I know I would buy a copy if you came out with a book.

Hi Tom,
I have thought about it but cant get organized enough for something like that. These tutorials are fun and I only do them here in Shop Talk. Blade Magazine asked me to do a gun/knife "how to" but I dont see how I can do that in only a couple pages. I have hundreds of photos of several of my projects. I just cant skip important steps so it takes a boat load of space.

 

[Keith_H]

You could probably do the first page on this thread in about 7 photos, and I bet you 5 could fit on one page. Things like heat treatment could be done in 1-2 photos.

 

[Bruce Bump]

I'm back,
OK its out of the clamps and I take it to the metal cutting bandsaw to remove pin excess and some excess from the guard. The belt grinder would work too but slower and builds heat. Heat is bad.

Now to the belt grinder with a new 60 belt. A new belt wont build heat. Heat is bad, I said that already.

I like to get the contours of the guard and handle very close to finish shape but take care because that new belt takes off the soft wood very fast.

Here I am checking the oval shape of the guard

I use a height guage to see if both sides are the same. A set of calipers would do the same thing. Simply lay the knife on one side and measure the height of the handle, then flip it over and the handle should measure the same. A bannana shaped knife is noticeable so this is an important step. Another trick it to use a mirror on the flat of the guard so the reflection of the handle is visible in the mirror. If the handle is straight it will show up in the mirror. The mirror trick was taught at Josh's hammer-in by Tim Hancock. It works great for squaring a guard to the blade too.

 

[Bruce Bump]

I dont know if you have seen a super glue finish before but I think this wood needs a harder shell. I am able to mark it with my fingernail and suspect it will show some wear in a couple years. I like my knives to be used but not look abused.

I sand the handle and guard down to 320 grit and pour thin super glue on the wood. It soaks in deep and needs a couple more applications letting it dry for awhile in between coats. I put 3 coats on this one. I just flood it on and rotate the knife so it covers the entire handle. It is pretty thick by the 3rd coat and the surface is very bumpy and irregular so I sand the high spots off with the 320 and flood it with Debonder and use my finger to smooth it out. I do this 3 or 4 times before it starts looking good. I put it away for the night so it can dry completely and in the morning it should be very hard and dry. It will still need some light sanding with finer grits and polish to get that deep look.

Sorry these pictures are not the best.

 

[ddavelarsen]

Bruce you stay up late working! I like your idea of flooding the handle with superglue. I've always just painted it on in coats, and not gotten the results I wanted. Never thought of using debonder to smooth the surface. I'll do it this way next time and see what I can get out of it. Great idea. Thanks some more.