A Little Khukuri Primer

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Karda

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The Khukuri world can be confusing to the novice, even at the best of times. So many different models and designs to choose from, each with it's own subtlties. Most designs are geographical, Same knife and made the same way, but with different shapes and weights for different tasks and usually embellished differently. Added to this mix is the fact that these are truly handmade with age old hand tools making no two knives being exactly the same in every way according to length, weight, handle size and balance.

What the novice should first consider is aesthetics. Which model is most pleasing to the individuals eye? Then he must consider what he will likely be using the khukuri for. This is important and will decide whether a dedicated chopper, fighter or something in between will fill ones needs. The next thing to consider is size and weight. Next to deciding what usage is planned this is probably the biggest decision and the hardest one to make, especially without knowledge or guidance from knowledgable people.

To do this one must be a bit introspective. Consider your height, weight and physical ability crucial aspects of the choices you will need to make concerning the proper khukuri. The most important being physical ability. You will need to be able to swing this khukuri multiple times on target to achieve desired results. Bigger is not always better, just harder to repeatedly swing.

What is more important is the mass of the khukuri and its edge. More mass for chopping, less mass for slicing. More obtuse edge beveling for chopping, a less obtuse (finer) edge for slicing. This also holds true for sharpening. You want a "field sharp" (think hatchets/axes) toothy edge for chopping as it will hold up to the infinite stresses of chopping better than a finely beveled scary sharp edge. Fine bevels and scary sharpness are great for weapons and kitchen cutlery, not so much for dedicated chopping.

This is where your height and weight come into play. You want to match size to your stature. A 6' guy with a 12" khukuri not only looks a bit odd for chopping, it is quite impractical. You want a khukuri just long enough to provide a comfortable reach to the target without adding too much weight to pack into the field. Weight is a consideration in that it is what grounds us. Lighter folks will need lighter khukuri and heavier folks will be able to swing a heavier khukuri with no problems.

For most people 6' and under a khukuri from 15" to 18" will be plenty enough. For those people whom are 6' and above 16" to 22" would be appropriate. Anything larger is mostly impractical for carry and usage due to size and weight considerations.

All in all if you sit and ponder these things, it will become clear that it is more or less common sense and simple physics at play here. As you use your khukuri and become familiar with it and it's aesthetics, you will be able to fully realize what all these parameters coming together mean in terms of what you need and what you don't.

The last thing i'd like to discuss is the handmade nature of most real imported Nepalese khukuri.
Because these things are handmade old skool style over a rudimentary coal forge using basic tooling means that not only are no two exactly the same, but that any given piece may have minor imperfections and anomalies associated with such handmade items such as grain marks in horn handles, slight misalignment of keepers, minor warpage and other small issues are not uncommon. We do try to do our best here to keep these things to a bare minimum and sell imperfect items as blemished stock, but due to the nature of the business, they cannot be completely avoided. These are not mass produced, stamped from steel items and some variation in them is to be expected.

Hopefully this simple post has been somewhat educational and understandable.
Auntie Yangdu and I will always gladly try to help guide you in this matter as best we can when time permits, but it is important that you come to understand what I've posted here, so that you can help the next friend that comes to our little forum here in the same situation of not knowing where to begin...
 
A much needed write-up! This should clear up some of the repeated questions about the size and weight proportion.
 
Hello, all! :)
Just to let you know, I've had blades of various styles and lengths all of my life, and I'm not a young guy anymore.
I was also into kendo for quite a long time, but that was years ago. Bottom line, I'm back in the blade market again, and my focus is on katana and khukuris.

My first post here, and unfortunately I have a small gripe. Yeah, heckuva way to start off, please forgive me! :D

For kuks, I looked at HI first as they came up first on Metacrawler. I'm wondering why all of these khukuris at HI are measured in overall length. The rest of the blade world describes their products by blade length/nagasa. I consider that a standard means of comparison, just look everywhere else.
(Granted, I've seen a LOT of other khukuri sites since that do the same thing or a combination of the "right way" and the "weird way". LOL!)

I wandered over to HI and saw some great-looking kuks, but my first thought was, "These babies are HUGE!" It took only a few seconds of looking at the handle to blade ratio to figure it out, but now I have to take the overall length, blow up the pic, scale it and do some quick calculations to determine the actual size of each one. This is honestly silly as well as being a royal PITA. Now I have a sheet with the models and real lengths as a reference, but I shouldn't have had to do that.

So. Why? :D

(Afterthoughts)

Karda,
That was a good post, but I'd make one caveat. Or two? ;)
Strength/endurance of the blade wielder, and training with other blades and/or swinging weight in general.

I'm not a big guy, but I'm in very good shape. I've also swung heavy stuff around for decades. If you gave a 2.25 lb 12" (measured the right way ;)) AK to both myself and a 6'3" fat couch potato and set us loose to hack at some logs, his wrists would be hurting and he'd be outta breath inside of a minute. I'd probably go until I was done or you distracted me with an expensive beer. ;)

I think that's a distinction that should be noted, there's a lot of us who have actually worked or work out nowadays. :)

Thanks, guys. I'll seeya around ... - TW
 
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Karda:

It's a good primer. Maybe should be a sticky, since the questions that it answers come up over and over, almost with every new forum member.

twolfnm makes a good point about the conditioning and wrist strength of the user. It's not necessary to go into all the details, but perhaps your sentence "This is where your height and weight come into play" could be amended to say "height, weight and physical conditioning."

twolfnm:

I don't agree about stating blade length rather than overall length, for the sake of standardized terminology. The length of a bent blade (and different models of khukuri have different degrees of bend) does not make for a clear or consistent standard. A khukuri is not quite a knife in the usual sense, just as a long khukuri is not quite a sword. This is especially true of the heavy choppers. I've observed that the "for sale" postings on Bladeforums most often do not state the weight of a knife, yet this is one of the most important pieces of information for a khukuri. Anyone who is interested in buying a khukuri will do some research and quickly discover, as you did that the terminology is a little different from that of knives, and this is due to both historical and practical (usage) differences.

Having said that, I suggest to Karda that you mention in your primer that "length" means "overall length."
 
Thanks Karda. A lot of great info there.
 
Uncle Bill many years ago, in conference with notable experts such as John Powell, Berkley, Spiral...etc came to the decision to use the "Overall Length" nomenclature as it was the most concise way to describe knives of unequal curvature. This nomenclature has been used here for 30 years now and our customers are familiar with it. I don't think we'll be changing mid-stream now.

As I mention "Physical Ability" and it's importance quite clearly in the 3rd paragraph, I don't think more clarification is needed as to which body parts need to be in good shape to use a khukuri, that part should be given knowledge.
 
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...For kuks, I looked at HI first as they came up first on Metacrawler. I'm wondering why all of these khukuris at HI are measured in overall length. The rest of the blade world describes their products by blade length/nagasa. I consider that a standard means of comparison, just look everywhere else...
When I stated out buying and using Kukris I too was confused with Himalayan Imports (HI) measurement system. But after I figured it out there were no problems. It's just a different way to go about the same thing.

Below is an M-43
P1000694.jpgP1000702.jpgP1000729.jpgP1000707.jpg
Welcome to the HI Forum. I like HI for many reasons. The Staff is very helpful like Karda putting out the above information to help buyers, give reasons why things at HI are as they are, and to correct. I have all kinds of Kukri (3 HI's) and have been rewarded by having found the Kukri both in practical use and the amazing history of the knife/people.
carrying what I think is a 40s or 50s villager From Jonathan.jpg
Above photo from Jonathan S.
 
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I do not understand how a rougher toothy edge is tougher than a smooth polished edge

A rougher toothy edge usually has more material behind it as it has not been refined.
We are talking convex here, not V-grind.
If one is putting V-grind edges on HI khukuri, they are sharpening wrong and potentially voiding their warranty.
If one oversharpens or modifies the edge to the extent that it becomes too thin or brittle for it's intended purpose, it is not a manufacturing defect and may not be warrantable.
 
It's a good primer. Maybe should be a sticky, since the questions that it answers come up over and over, almost with every new forum member.
It has been added to the Link Library. I'm trying to keep sticky threads to a minimum here.
 
KARDA. dedicated chopper, fighter or something in between will fill ones needs.
as for a toothy edge a smooth polished edge , i ask with what edge should i use for a hunting blade
to clear shooting lanes ,(varmit hunting) but keep very sharp edge if im hunted coyote wild dog something with bigger teeth than mine thanks
 
Gentlemen, thanks for the replies. However, I'll have to ask that we respectfully agree to disagree on this measurement issue.

Karda, sorry about the physiological capability aspect, I must have processed your phrase and packed it away where it didn't register. I've been known to do that occassionally. :D

I don't think the reasoning behind your method originates due to it being any more concise, it's really not. It's more likely due to carry considerations, where OAL is a more important factor than blade length. Individual body dimensions or packing/storage limitations are critical in a lot of scenarios. For example, an 18" OAL knife would be the max for my smaller backpack, while a 24"+ OAL would still work with my old ALICE pack.

I'm not going to start a debate over this, but it's not difficult at all to measure a Khukuri blade, it's just a measure of displacement, not distance. It's simple to hook a tape on the point and go to the center of the bolster, and the degree of deviation actually increases by adding the handle. Khukuri designs don't vary enough for there to be a radical difference in size due to their curve, not when you consider that each one is handmade and differs somewhat already. Yes, there are some that are like a scythe, but that isn't the norm, from what I see.

Since HI has been in business for over 20 years, changing the way things have always been done would not be a wise move, and I never suggested that. I still think it's kinda strange given that it's contrary to long-established and near-universal conventions. But that is my opinion, and you'd better realize that I'm smiling when I say that. Kinda like when I'm making fun of the fishpipes and apes on your Harley, if yours is equipped like that. Don't take offense at it.

And it's not a deal-breaker or anything! SweetCostaRica nailed it in post #8. LOL! Right now I have an HI knife on order, as well as 2 more from the other place. So there! :D

Well, on to more pertinent issues. That is all I'll ever say about this on this forum.

Thanks for the welcomes, it's great to be here. :)
 
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KARDA. dedicated chopper, fighter or something in between will fill ones needs.
as for a toothy edge a smooth polished edge , i ask with what edge should i use for a hunting blade
to clear shooting lanes ,(varmit hunting) but keep very sharp edge if im hunted coyote wild dog something with bigger teeth than mine thanks

Honestly, I don't carry any fine polished edges into the field. The first time I have to sharpen in the field that polished edge will be gone. I've never had a problem clearing lanes or field processing with a toothy edge.

I'm not going to start a debate over this

That's good, because i'm not going to debate it.
 
my khuk has a shaving sharp edge but with the experience i have sharpening, i'm able to sharpen a khuk so i can have the best of both worlds so to speak. protourist had the chance to chop with my khuk on a piece of hard ash and it still shaved when he was done chopping.

if i were to go out in the woods to do some chopping and wanted to take something along to touch up the edge in case of a chip or flattened edge, i would take a 220 grit jflex belt. you can attach the belt to a tree or between 2 trees and by using a stropping motion, you can remove the chip or flattened edge rather quickly. for chopping wood, i would not even worry about removing the burr since chopping will take care of it. when i sharpen an axe or hatchet for any of my buddys, i really dont worry about removing the burr. the axe or hatchet still chops just fine.
 
hello RICHARD J. do you have any information for those of use ( me ) that are honestly not a PROFESSIONAL KNIFE SHARPENER,, ore even good at it any detailed ides,a welcome to myself & other,s im sure
 
anyone that wants some help, send me an email with your phone number and i'll give you a call. i have free long distance on my home phone which is unlisted and i do not give out.

http://www.youtubecom/watch?v=8q_eMwRYg here is a link to a vid unit made of a knife i made. this is a good example of a knife that chop and shave hair. i have other vids and links at my website.
 
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i like the knife in your video richard. reminds me of my crowell barker, which has a full convex grind. some of my filipino knives are traditionally chisel ground.

following are included regarding chopping with a convex edge which works best on a khukuri:

[video=youtube;Z2XfJOFOjJY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2XfJOFOjJY[/video]
[video=youtube;jDo3gk6Njxk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDo3gk6Njxk[/video]

i believe it is 1095 HC steel.

i use a slack belt sharpener and 3m 01-30 micron polishing paper (on a mouse mat) on my knives/swords/khukuris to get a polished convex edge. i do cheat on my kitchen knives tho & use a fine diamond bench 'stone'.

p.s. - jim crowell looks a lot like me, except i have a beard & have lost about 15 kilos. :)

View attachment 356998

p.p.s. - in spite of what the guy in the 2nd video says, it will slide out from the sheath if you tilt it. i just adjusted the carrick bend on the end of my lanyard & it slid out and bit me. i'm off to disinfect the wound and superglue my ring finger back together before i get blood all over the keyboard. ;)
 
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