A question for TSProf k03 users

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Jun 22, 2022
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Hey guys I need a little help with my TSProf k03. Has anyone tried to calibrate the springs on their clamps before?

When I balanced it (0.00° difference) and clamped a knife in the bottom reading was always at least 1° more than the top. So I got a brand new clamp just to test and it showed a 1.50° difference. What is the difference on your clamps? Have you done a calibration before?

I like using a guided sharpener to set the bevel on my knives, especially my more expensive ones and I want to be confident in those results, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!
 
I think I have seen a TSPROF you tube video about setting it up and going over think it's a ko2, but there is a process for the spring clamps not sure about the milled aluminum clamps.
 
D DanialK

Do you have the reinforced springs for your clamps,I know the stock springs that come with the clamps flex a lot when compared to the reinforced springs.

I would check and look at the clamps from a side angle after you have a knife clamped in and see what's going on,the other thing that could be happening is that you may have touched the clamps a bit and caused them to move up a or down and the stock springs could be so soft they don't have enough strength to return back up.

You can't post a link in this forum to another site but if you go to gritomatic just type in springs in their search engine and they will come right up.

If you put a knife in your clamps and you push down on the knife and it doesn't return all the way back to center then get the reinforced clamps,and to be honest with you the reinforced clamps are the first thing I always tell everyone to get that has the clamps that use springs they don't deflect at all when sharpening,the reinforced may not return back to center either but because they are stiff and don't deflect as much when sharpening you'll get a more true angle when sharpening.

Be sure to use blue locktite on all the screws that o into the springs on the clamps.
 

here is the video for clamp calibration starts at 2:23 good video overall on set up agree that the reinforced are a lot stronger and a good upgrade
 
D DanialK

Do you have the reinforced springs for your clamps,I know the stock springs that come with the clamps flex a lot when compared to the reinforced springs.

I would check and look at the clamps from a side angle after you have a knife clamped in and see what's going on,the other thing that could be happening is that you may have touched the clamps a bit and caused them to move up a or down and the stock springs could be so soft they don't have enough strength to return back up.

You can't post a link in this forum to another site but if you go to gritomatic just type in springs in their search engine and they will come right up.

If you put a knife in your clamps and you push down on the knife and it doesn't return all the way back to center then get the reinforced clamps,and to be honest with you the reinforced clamps are the first thing I always tell everyone to get that has the clamps that use springs they don't deflect at all when sharpening,the reinforced may not return back to center either but because they are stiff and don't deflect as much when sharpening you'll get a more true angle when sharpening.

Be sure to use blue locktite on all the screws that o into the springs on the clamps.
Hey, thank you for your response. When installing the reinforced springs, does it matter if I screw the springs into the clamp before attaching it to the bracket (the two pieces that attach to the frame), or vice-versa?

I've also noticed that when calibrating my clamps, my measurements differ by about 2.60 degrees, depending on whether I set my angle cube facing the center of the frame or away from it. Is this the same for you?
 
Hey, thank you for your response. When installing the reinforced springs, does it matter if I screw the springs into the clamp before attaching it to the bracket (the two pieces that attach to the frame), or vice-versa?

Unless you need to do a lot of adjusting up or down, it will be fine to only adjust on the bracket screws. If you run out of range of adjustment with the range of movement on the bracket part, then loosen the screws on the clamp section too.

I've also noticed that when calibrating my clamps, my measurements differ by about 2.60 degrees, depending on whether I set my angle cube facing the center of the frame or away from it. Is this the same for you?

Never rotate your angle cube the opposite way around when calibrating, it always must face the same direction or you will have incorrect readings. Always zero it on one side of the clamp and then compare the other side when the clamp is flipped over. Make sure to have your cube face the same way around when comparing one side to the other side of the clamp - like in the video.

Also make sure to zero the cibe and re-check the other side again every time you've done an adjustment until it's perfectly calibrated.
 
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Hey, thank you for your response. When installing the reinforced springs, does it matter if I screw the springs into the clamp before attaching it to the bracket (the two pieces that attach to the frame), or vice-versa?

I've also noticed that when calibrating my clamps, my measurements differ by about 2.60 degrees, depending on whether I set my angle cube facing the center of the frame or away from it. Is this the same for you?
Sorry for the late reply.

I always just screwed the screws that go into the jaws on the clamp first then I put the screws into the fixing units that hold the clamp to crossbar then I calibrate the clamps from there.

If you are having any problems or there are things you don't understand and need help look me up on facebook under Wade Norton I have the same cartoon face for my icon,I don't mind doing a video chat either if you need a visual reference.
 
If you are having any problems or there are things you don't understand and need help look me up on facebook under Wade Norton I have the same cartoon face for my icon,I don't mind doing a video chat either if you need a visual reference.

Another reason I'm loving this forum. Some good dudes on here!
 
Unless you need to do a lot of adjusting up or down, it will be fine to only adjust on the bracket screws. If you run out of range of adjustment with the range of movement on the bracket part, then loosen the screws on the clamp section too.



Never rotate your angle cube the opposite way around when calibrating, it always must face the same direction or you will have incorrect readings. Always zero it on one side of the clamp and then compare the other side when the clamp is flipped over. Make sure to have your cube face the same way around when comparing one side to the other side of the clamp - like in the video.

Also make sure to zero the cibe and re-check the other side again every time you've done an adjustment until it's perfectly calibrated.
Thank you for your help, that's good to know! Do you know what causes the difference, by chance? I know it serves no practical purpose, but I'm always interested in learning more.


Sorry for the late reply.

I always just screwed the screws that go into the jaws on the clamp first then I put the screws into the fixing units that hold the clamp to crossbar then I calibrate the clamps from there.

If you are having any problems or there are things you don't understand and need help look me up on facebook under Wade Norton I have the same cartoon face for my icon,I don't mind doing a video chat either if you need a visual reference.

I really appreciate the offer! I received the reinforced springs for my clamps from Gritomatic yesterday and am in the process of installing them and calibrating my clamps, so I'll definitely hit you up if I run into any problems. Thanks for your advice.
 
Do you know what causes the difference, by chance? I know it serves no practical purpose, but I'm always interested in learning more.

It's because regular digital angle cubes do not have 3 axis gyros and accelerometers in them to compensate for combined x,y and z axis measurements at the same time. They can only accurately measure in one axis.
 
It's because regular digital angle cubes do not have 3 axis gyros and accelerometers in them to compensate for combined x,y and z axis measurements at the same time. They can only accurately measure in one axis.

That... makes a lot of sense actually. I think I've been a little too focused on getting my angles to be exact, even at the expense of even bevels. Do you have any methods for getting more even bevels when I sharpen?
 
That... makes a lot of sense actually. I think I've been a little too focused on getting my angles to be exact, even at the expense of even bevels. Do you have any methods for getting more even bevels when I sharpen?

You're on the right track by firstly not over-focusing angle cube use. It's important but it definitely needs to be done right. Make sure to only measure your angle on one side of your knife, in the center of the blade (as far as possible) and in the center of the stone. Don't measure the angle in different spots on the blade and don't have the angle cube rotated at all - have it as perpendicular as possible to the sharpening angle or the reading will be incorrect.

When you flip the blade over, don't measure or adjust your angle on the opposite side at all. If you do this, you'll just be chasing a rabbit down a hole unnecessarily. When you swap stones, measure and readjust your angle (on the original side of the knife where you started) for difference in stone thickness.

When grinding in a new edge angle on your knife (especially with your coarse stones), visually check it on both side for symmetry (don't over-sharpen one side or the bevel will be higher on that side.
 
Thank you for your help, that's good to know! Do you know what causes the difference, by chance? I know it serves no practical purpose, but I'm always interested in learning more.




I really appreciate the offer! I received the reinforced springs for my clamps from Gritomatic yesterday and am in the process of installing them and calibrating my clamps, so I'll definitely hit you up if I run into any problems. Thanks for your advice.
It's what 777 Edge said about the axi cube having more gyro's,you don't need the axi cube anyway you can spend your money better on other thing's,the axi cube can only show you where the angle changes it doesn't auto correct the angle.

Use these pictures to see how to properly clamp a knife if the stone is missing the one part of the edge,if this happens it's not because the sharpener has changed the angle it simply can not do this like some people think it can,it's the the extreme radius of some knives that cause this to happen.


cOs6fWs.jpg


This picture shows how to fix the problem if it was the upper part of the bevel that didn't get sharpened and what to do if it was the lower part that got missed.

yZ3Aiff.jpg
 
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