A swedish perspective on scandi grind

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When i read articles and watch videos of people talking about knifes with scandi-grind, i feel that it is the most misunderstood grind in the world.

Im a native suede. I have over 100 days/year in the wilderness using knifes for hunting, fishing, bushcraft and general use.

The most used grind in Sweden is scandi-grind by far. But contrary to popular belief, it is not considered the best grind. Many consider "Fällkniven" as the best company att making quality knifes and they use a convex grind. The reason scandi-grind knifes is more popular is pricing. Many youtubers and article writers states that the scandi is prefered in scandinavia, wich isnt true. People that want to spend money on a high end knife will buy a "Fällkniven".

I use alot of scandi knifes. The reason for this is as already mentioned, pricing. There is a big difference in hunting culture in Sweden and US. We hunt with dogs chasing the animal too shooters. In the US the main hunting is stalking alone. We often have multiple animals to skin after a hunt. It is not uncommon that you need to skin 2-3 animals at the same time. Skinning animal is not the same as cutting meat. Small bits of sand, dust and earth travel hides in the fur of the animal. In my experience, a knife with bad steel will loose sharpness. Mora´s regular scandi-grind does not stand up for the task. A mora in sweden cost 4,5$. I have tried alot of Full Flats grinds and different hollowgrinds but they just dont hold the sharpness enough. When you need to skin 3 animals and want to go home to the family, you just dont want to stop to sharpen your knife, you want your knife to last untill the skinning is done.

I use high end scandi-grind blades for this purpose because they meet the demands togheter with good pricing. A very good Scandi knife cost 45$ in Sweden. If the knife is more expensive then that it is because of materials in the handle, it is handmade etc. 45$ gives you a top blade on a plastic handle. The best knifes is still convex, they are sharper and hold the edge as good as a premium scandi grind, but they cost to much. Fällkniven F1 cost 180$. It is to much for a knife that can be lost in the woods anytime.

For camping and bushcraft i often use mora knives. They are dirt cheap and very sharp in the begining. They also stand alot of abuse without breaking. Every carpenter, electrician, plumber uses mora in Sweden. They are just so cheap and fits the task.

For fishing i prefer folding knives that takes less space in the tackle box. I also have folding blades in my car and backpack as reserve knifes. Since folding knifes with scandi blades tend to be overpriced, i dont use them.

Summary: Scandi grind in Sweden is popular because we can buy them very cheap. They give great durability compared to pricing. When people on youtube speak about Mora as a "high end quality knife" i get confused and feel that they have misunderstood the use of the knife. Others who dont like the scandi-blade and claims it is not as good as other grinds dont understand the pricing prespective since these knifes cost way more in the US.

Mora survival bushcraft cost $109.99 at cabela. You can find it in Sweden for 60$.

Its the same principle on the Buck 110. Many in US consider it a very good value knife (it may not be gold standard nowadays, but it is a classic). It cost 65$ at cabelas. In sweden the pricing is 98$.
 
I am familiar with Mora (I have several) and with Fallkniven, which I don’t have because of price. What do you consider a good high end Scandi?
 
One of my pet peeves is watching youtubers "review" their brand new scandi knife and comment on it not being a true scandi because it has a microbevel. It's a weird and incorrect factoid that everyone just loves to repeat. Outside of dedicated wood carving knives meant for soft woods, I've never had a "true" scandi grind not roll.
 
A scandi grind is a wood processing power house and eats cardboard too but beyond those applications I'd prefer most any other grind.......
 
I always assumed that a scandi grind would be hard to sharpen because of the micro-bevel. Am i wrong?
 
A scandi grind is a wood processing power house and eats cardboard too but beyond those applications I'd prefer most any other grind.......
I am curious how a scandi grind would be better than, say a full flat grind in either of those examples? Not trying to be contentious with you, I just can't wrap my head around how a full flat wouldn't be superior (though maybe minutely) in both of those situations?
 
I am curious how a scandi grind would be better than, say a full flat grind in either of those examples? Not trying to be contentious with you, I just can't wrap my head around how a full flat wouldn't be superior (though maybe minutely) in both of those situations?
Send me.one of your beautiful blades to test....😉.........Just my experience with the few.I've used......I Don't necessarily like them just was.impressed with the abilities....... I own 1 scandi now....That plenty😜
 
I always assumed that a scandi grind would be hard to sharpen because of the micro-bevel. Am i wrong?
I used only scandis with microbevels for years, which many people would not consider a scandi.

From my experience with a 10dps bevel and a faint microbevel bevel I would get 2-3 micro bevel sharpenings before the edge became to thick for me then I would pull out a coarse diamond stone and take the main bevels back to a zero grind apex and then once again apply a faint microbevel.

Yes it was work but not to bad and it is pretty easy to thin to zero as that wide bevel is like training wheels for sharpening.
 
I used only scandis with microbevels for years, which many people would not consider a scandi.

From my experience with a 10dps bevel and a faint microbevel bevel I would get 2-3 micro bevel sharpenings before the edge became to thick for me then I would pull out a coarse diamond stone and take the main bevels back to a zero grind apex and then once again apply a faint microbevel.

Yes it was work but not to bad and it is pretty easy to thin to zero as that wide bevel is like training wheels for sharpening.

Surprised you never went to the scandivex dark side. Feels more natural and easier to sharpen to me.

People can rip on scandi grinds all they want but for woods use it's a lovely grind and the "wedge" effect has lots of benefits (just not cutting food).
 
Surprised you never went to the scandivex dark side. Feels more natural and easier to sharpen to me.

People can rip on scandi grinds all they want but for woods use it's a lovely grind and the "wedge" effect has lots of benefits (just not cutting food).
Scandivex would be thicker edge geometry than I wanted, more axe appropriate in my mind and not for knives. Same with the apple seed convex knives, just to thick.
 
Scandivex would be thicker edge geometry than I wanted, more axe appropriate in my mind and not for knives. Same with the apple seed convex knives, just to thick.

Interesting point. I don't mind the slightly thicker edge a scandivex makes if wood is the main cutting medium (general woods bumming). Then again I'm probably not using it for the variety of things you are.

A proper scandi might be easy sharpen in terms of having it's own bevel guide, but for me it's just too time consuming to reset to zero everytime. With a natural loose wrist rocking motion and a hand stone, I can remove steel in a flash, it's just practical. Keeps it thin enough to strop and eat through wood but it's definitely not ideal for food or dressing game.

But I do admire your zest for peak performance, and I have no doubt your scandi grinds on thin stock eat through wood like a laser :)
 
Interesting point. I don't mind the slightly thicker edge a scandivex makes if wood is the main cutting medium (general woods bumming). Then again I'm probably not using it for the variety of things you are.

A proper scandi might be easy sharpen in terms of having it's own bevel guide, but for me it's just too time consuming to reset to zero everytime. With a natural loose wrist rocking motion and a hand stone, I can remove steel in a flash, it's just practical. Keeps it thin enough to strop and eat through wood but it's definitely not ideal for food or dressing game.

But I do admire your zest for peak performance, and I have no doubt your scandi grinds on thin stock eat through wood like a laser :)

I have moved on from scandis now, once I started working on thin convex grinds the scandi just held no appeal for me. Now if I am not going to grind a convex I will do a 7dps with a micro bevel.
 
I still can't figure out why scandi grinds 'excel at wood processing' or what exactly 'wood processing' even means.

I think people just parrot things they've heard repeatedly without thinking about it.

If a scandi blade 'flies through wood' then the exact same blade with a full flat grind would fly through even better.
 
I am familiar with Mora (I have several) and with Fallkniven, which I don’t have because of price. What do you consider a good high end Scandi?
I use Martiini knives. I think their blade is high end. The handle is made of rubber but is functional, makes the cost go down. If we only look at the blade quality Martiini would be my choice.

shopping

There is some really good artist that makes wonderfull scandi that have very good blades, but then you are paying for the art. Nothing wrong with that, they are very beutifull. Often with handmade blades by smiths which can be really good.

mini-kniv-113-1.jpg
mini-kniv-113-2.jpg

The Above knife is current for sale by a knifemaker. The blade is made by a smith called M Eklund. The cost is 1600 sek = 143$
 
I still can't figure out why scandi grinds 'excel at wood processing' or what exactly 'wood processing' even means.

I think people just parrot things they've heard repeatedly without thinking about it.

If a scandi blade 'flies through wood' then the exact same blade with a full flat grind would fly through even better.

They excell at wood processing beacause you can smash a Mora knife with a hammer with full power, without feeling bad. You use it and abuse it untill it breaks. Then you buy a new one. Its their purpose. If people would use their EDC lika i use a Mora they will have nightmares. Its a grind that is very easy to produce, gives great sharpness and stand alot of abuse without breaking. You use them for tasks that damage knifes, then you buy a new one.

I think that is why most people like myself in Sweden are having trouble motivate a EDC. We are raised with cheap Moras that we use for everything. If it breaks you just by a new one. A EDC for 60$, i just dont know what i should use that knife for when i can break 6 Moras for the same cost. ( I have EDC, but thats because im a idiot, like all knife entusiasts).
 
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