A8 Mod toughness

S

Scaniaman

Joined
Jun 15, 2012
Messages
1,417
This is A8 Mod at 59/60 Hrc. 4.5 mm thick with full convex geometry.
I started with hammering the front into this fresh and crooked apple tree log. Then bent the blade and hammered the rest in. Came back out dead straight, sharp and without chips or cracks. My go to steel for 6"+ blades. Has the wear resistance of A2, but significantly more toughness.

BNSlTld.jpeg


The knife:

Lightweight 6" wood's knife A8 Mod

I made this for myself since I wanted a blade light enough to carry effortlessly but strong enough to baton wood without whining. 4.5 mm blade, full convex at 59/60 Hrc. Tapered tang for balance. Corby rivets, and two internal/hidden pinns in the front for extra strength. Canvas micarta, G10...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
Thanks for the show....
I've wanted to play with this steel for a couple years ever since I first heard of it.
Looks like a nice rough house steel, I might order some in my future batch's.
Please keep us posted!
 
You still have to get the heat treat right. I had a Rukus blade replaced in A8(mod), with the heat treat being done by a well known knife maker.

It was a terrible steel. In chopping small, free-hanging branches, the edge failed, although a similar blade in Vanax SuperClean did not.

2v2HtjWnqxAWtWs.jpg


I sent the blade back to the maker for testing at my own expense. He just blew me off. The blade was supposed to be 60-61 Rc, and the maker said it was. But when I tested it with a scratch test (a 58 Rc blade could scratch it, but it could not scratch the supposedly softer steel), it was obviously a poor heat treat. Obviously, A8(mod) -- very similar to Busse's Infi -- can be a great steel. But the heat treat is key.

2v2HtjW4GxAWtWs.jpg
 
Twindog said:
You still have to get the heat treat right. I had a Rukus blade replaced in A8(mod), with the heat treat being done by a well known knife maker.

It was a terrible steel. In chopping small, free-hanging branches, the edge failed, although a similar blade in Vanax SuperClean did not.

2v2HtjWnqxAWtWs.jpg


I sent the blade back to the maker for testing at my own expense. He just blew me off. The blade was supposed to be 60-61 Rc, and the maker said it was. But when I tested it with a scratch test (a 58 Rc blade could scratch it, but it could not scratch the supposedly softer steel), it was obviously a poor heat treat. Obviously, A8(mod) -- very similar to Busse's Infi -- can be a great steel. But the heat treat is key.

2v2HtjW4GxAWtWs.jpg
Click to expand...
How thin is that bte?
it looks pretty thin? It's hard to tell from the close up....Do you know how acute that angle is?
I'm surprised it chipped if it was softer than you'd like
 
Crag the Brewer said:
How thin is that bte?
it looks pretty thin? It's hard to tell from the close up....Do you know how acute that angle is?
I'm surprised it chipped if it was softer than you'd like
Click to expand...
The BTE is 15 thousandths, and the edge angle is 15 dps.

It's the same edge/blade geometry that I have with a Vanax SuperClean reblade, which I have used for years the same way with no damage.
 
Twindog said:
The BTE is 15 thousandths, and the edge angle is 15 dps.

It's the same edge/blade geometry that I have with a Vanax SuperClean reblade, which I have used for years the same way with no damage.
Click to expand...
That Sucks, sorry about that..... Ive only heard wonderful things about that steel.
If you still have the knife, I'd creep up the sharpening and see how it behaves
 
Twindog said:
You still have to get the heat treat right. I had a Rukus blade replaced in A8(mod), with the heat treat being done by a well known knife maker.

It was a terrible steel. In chopping small, free-hanging branches, the edge failed, although a similar blade in Vanax SuperClean did not.

2v2HtjWnqxAWtWs.jpg


I sent the blade back to the maker for testing at my own expense. He just blew me off. The blade was supposed to be 60-61 Rc, and the maker said it was. But when I tested it with a scratch test (a 58 Rc blade could scratch it, but it could not scratch the supposedly softer steel), it was obviously a poor heat treat. Obviously, A8(mod) -- very similar to Busse's Infi -- can be a great steel. But the heat treat is key.

2v2HtjW4GxAWtWs.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes no steel is better than it's heat treat.
Sorry to hear that, I remember your thread on that re-blade in 2019.
 
I "babysit" a few Hunting Ranches and got a call that a large/downed Oak branch was blocking one of the senderos. All I had in the cab of my flatbed was one of my "truck" Pelican boxes. So, I had a WTG/Aurora Borealis "Kodiak" and Bahco "Laplander" saw. The Kodiak I had was a Bohler K329 version, which is supposed to very close to A8 Mod. I used both the knife and saw to reduce the downed branch.

I beat the below knife over about an hour, like I hated it, all while reducing the above branch.


ZERO chips, rolls, etc...



20230418_154547 (BF).jpg

20230418_154655 (BF).jpg
 
nice, that K329 should be tough...
C 0.52 Si 0.95 Mn 0.40 Cr 8.00 Mo 1.40 V 0.35

so that is pretty much like 5cr8mov with extra V, given that normally it's only 0.1%ish
not stainless, but tough
 
Alone said:
I "babysit" a few Hunting Ranches and got a call that a large/downed Oak branch was blocking one of the senderos. All I had in the cab of my flatbed was one of my "truck" Pelican boxes. So, I had a WTG/Aurora Borealis "Kodiak" and Bahco "Laplander" saw. The Kodiak I had was a Bohler K329 version, which is supposed to very close to A8 Mod. I used both the knife and saw to reduce the downed branch.

I beat the below knife over about an hour, like I hated it, all while reducing the above branch.


ZERO chips, rolls, etc...



View attachment 2157291

View attachment 2157292
Click to expand...
After watching Joe_X repeatedly abusing an Work Tuff Gear Ares without breaking it, that brand conquered my respect (but I still don’t have any atm). They sure how to make knives and heat treating them. K329 it’s Bohlers A8mod version, like Viking/Chipper, (not Chipping) it’s Uddeholm A8mod version, like BE2360 (the A8mod version that Dulo knives uses) it’s the A8mod version that Bestar makes. A really good steel at least as tough as SK85 (good stuff, but K329 has less carbon, so should be tougher, although A8mod has more chromium and SK85 it’s probably super clean high quality 1085 steel), but needs to be properly heat treated in good furnaces and with controled time, not in a forge.
 
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I have a piece of A8(mod) sitting here waiting for me to use for a knifemaker to build me a custom. It's a really good steel and a favorite of mine for large knives that need a bit of toughness. I like the balance of attributes it has .

There was a time I would have made it myself and sent it out for heat treat but my current townhome isn't suitable. In all honesty there are a lot of guys around that will do a lot better job as well. :)

Joe
 
hugofeynman said:
After watching Joe_X repeatedly abusing an Work Tuff Gear Ares without breaking it, that brand conquered my respect (but I still don’t have any atm). They sure how to make knives and heat treating them. K329 it’s Bohlers A8mod version, like Viking/Chipper, (not Chipping) it’s Uddeholm A8mod version, like BE2360 (the A8mod version that Dulo knives uses) it’s the A8mod version that Bestar makes. A really good steel at least as tough as SK85 (good stuff, but K329 has less carbon, so should be tougher, although A8mod has more chromium and SK85 it’s probably super clean high quality 1085 steel), but needs to be properly heat treated in good furnaces and with controled time, not in a forge.
Click to expand...


I have limited time with the K329 Kodiak. However, after beating on it the way that I did that day, I fully expected a good chip or five. When I was done working, I wanted to get out of where I was. So, I just wiped the knife on my shorts, sheathed it, and left. However, when I was cleaning it in my kitchen, later that evening, I was shocked to find that the edge had ZERO damage. (*And yes, I'm "that guy" who wears shorts year-round)



*Not to derail the thread, but I have a buttload of time/experience with their SK-85 version. That thing is a BRUTE. Not once has it ever so much as winced at anything I've thrown at it. Funny thing is, the blade stock is only a little thicker than the K329 version (*.27" vs. .23"), but it weighs a ton and feels a bit more substantial in the hand.
 
Alone said:
I have limited time with the K329 Kodiak. However, after beating on it the way that I did that day, I fully expected a good chip or five. When I was done working, I wanted to get out of where I was. So, I just wiped the knife on my shorts, sheathed it, and left. However, when I was cleaning it in my kitchen, later that evening, I was shocked to find that the edge had ZERO damage. (*And yes, I'm "that guy" who wears shorts year-round)



*Not to derail the thread, but I have a buttload of time/experience with their SK-85 version. That thing is a BRUTE. Not once has it ever so much as winced at anything I've thrown at it. Funny thing is, the blade stock is only a little thicker than the K329 version (*.27" vs. .23"), but it weighs a ton and feels a bit more substantial in the hand.
Click to expand...
Seems like my next knife purchase needs to be something made by WTG in SK85, preferably the Ares.👍
 
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