Acraglas, Gel, and Devcon

K

Ken Cox

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I visited Jantz Supply and Brownell's to buy a little Acraglas for the scales on my handmade short-sword/heavy-dagger, and they had changed their offerings since last I researched these things.

Now they both offer Acraglas (the original), Acraglas Gel (with nylon derivatives), and Devcon (5 minute epoxy).

Based on hearsay I lean heavily towards Acraglas, in whichever form.

For the purpose of gluing pinned scales to a full tang, does anyone have input regarding these three choices?
 
Acraglas is a good bonding agent, most seem to prefer the gel. It is not clear though.
If you want to try Devcon, don't use the 5 minute. It does not have the strength of Devcon 2 ton. I have used the 2 ton on all my knives for 20 years, and it has not failed me. It is susceptible to damage from storing in high heat environments though, so store it in a cupboard, in the house. It will last a long time that way.
I'm talking about before it is mixed here.
Devcon 2 ton can be purchased at Wal Mart, among other places.
 
I use only the standard acra-glass. I tend to make a lot of hidden tang knives, and the gel is just not a good choice for those. Either way you go for slab handles, you can't go wrong with acra-glass. 10 year shelf life, and 50 year hold life! Most all of the expoxy products, including Devcon will start breaking down in about 2 years (the more UV light they are esposed to, the faster they break down)........but often last much longer than that.
 
I prefer Acraglas standard but when I`m out
I use Loctite Extra Time epoxy. I get at the
Lowes store 2.5 oz. for $3.00
 
Acraglass (original) is tops. Be sure to give it a full 24 hour cure at a minimum.

Brownell's are also great people to do biz with.

Bob:)
 
Yes, as Mike says, stay away from the 5 min. stuff. I like Brownell's Original and like said before, it should set a full 24 hr before releasing the work piece from the vise. In fact, I understand it takes about 5 days for epoxies to completely cure. The only real inconvenience with Brownells Original is that it is not a 1 to 1 mix and therefore requires more attention in measuring. Oh well.

I use a lot of JB Weld.

Roger
 
Acraglas all the way! I am pretty messy with the stuff, and have been astounded by the way the stuff holds. I have had a heck of a time on occassions to get acuglassed clamps off handles and handles out of vices because of the stuff's holding power. I still have some hardened and stuck on our kitchen table that will outlast the table, by far!
 
i have use the devcon 2ton for years and have not had a failier yet. thats with some knuclehead clients putting my culinary knives in a dish washer (yes, i have called them that to there face :mad:) the stuff i have been using for the last six months is called gorrilla glue and i have been very happy with it. my problem with fast setting stuff like devcon 5 minute is i like to do scales in batches and it seems even with one knife something gos wrong and by the time i take it apart the stuff has set to far to use. also i use loveless type bolts so beteew the gorilla glue and the bolts its set for life.:)
 
Just used some acraglas gel for the first time last night for sealing up some bolsters.

I think I like the stuff as far as working with (have to defer to those with experience on holding power). I was very pleased with how the stuff is for working with - spreads like butter and stays put. Excess cleans up easy too. I'd say because of the thickness it's a tad easier to work with than Devcon.

And John Andrews you're right, it squeezes out for a nice flush fit.

Steve

One other point. I'm trying a little experiment for inlays. I added some black to the gel. It has a very nice gloss black to it. The gel doesn't create bubbles like epoxy. So, I think I can use it in exposed areas. I'll cut into it, sand and polish to make sure, but I think it'll work.
 
I don't know if anyone else out there is using it but I have been using an epoxie made by Geougon Brothers. It comes in either pints, gallons, or for the real hard cores 55 gallons. I have been using it for the past 10 years and love it. It has the consistency of syrup and can be thickened with cabosil if you want to fill. The primary use is in boat building using fiberglass cloth. very strong and wets out well. You can either get it with fast slow or tropical slow hardener. I like the fast as this still gives you a few hours to make adjustments.


Virgil
 
back in hischool I learned not to trust epoxy for full tange knives, mainly from improper bonding and the fact that most of my early knives(if you could call them that) were on the thin side and springy compared to the blade. I found that epoxy alone would work loose over time if the tang flexed at all. Since Then on any full tange knife be it stainless or carbon, I use a mechanicle bond. I use either loveless bolts(my personal favorite for strength), or piened pins. On such knives the epoxy is more of a seal than anything. On full tange knives with loveless bolts I use Devcon 5 minit on the linners and handle.

Every thing else, especialy hidden tang knives, gets Acureglass. It is the best out of a lot of epoxies I've tried. I havent' tried the gell, but since I make mostly hidden tang knives I have had no reason to give it a try. Should work great for full tang slabs, might be a little thick for hidden tangs.
 
Originally posted by Will52100
Since Then on any full tange knife be it stainless or carbon, I use a mechanicle bond.
Click to expand...

Will,
I am with you on the mechanical bond. I like to use Corby or hidden bolts. This ensures that the scales on full tang blades aren't going anywhere. This is just a personal preference and for the most part, if anyone uses a good epoxy and pins then it is usually adequate.

I do stay away from Devcon 5 minute epoxy. If you look closely at the packaging you will find that it is not waterproof. Once the temperature starts to rise, the 2 Ton Epoxy IS 5 minute! I never had a problem with 2 Ton epoxy but quite a while back I switched to Shafting Epoxy (just because its supposed to be bit better).

I suppose that a lot of companies would view the use of bolts and shafting epoxy as "quality give-away" but we aren't making "widgets" here! I would like to think that the knives we make have at least a 200 year shelf life! :D

C Wilkins
 
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