KnifeHead
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,549
First time poster(here)...long time lurker. 
Here is something I discovered because I wanted to try something different. I'm sure there are better ways to finish leather, I'm just sharing the results of my experiment.
After doing a little research on different ways that folks apply finishes on completed leather projects, wanting to use Tan Kote as a final finish and not having any on hand, I found this document:
http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/4h8058/$FILE/PELF_KenCameronHowtoCleanASaddle_2006.pdf
It's says at the bottom of page 2:
Waxing cover protectant to avoid dirt and moisture from entering the surface of the leather, not to seal the leather. Healthy leather needs to be able to accept moisturizing from time to time at a later date and breathe. An acrylic wax such as Tan Kote, Bag Kote or Future Floor Was will protect the surface and still allow you to moisturize the leather at a later date.
BTW, I did some more Googling and found lots of uses for Future Floor Shine/Wax, especially in the scale modeling world. Anyway, wanting to do a little experimenting, I headed off to Kroger to see if they had Future Floor Shine/Wax....they didn't...but they had Pledge with Future Shine which is a clear acrylic finish.
I tested it on a small piece of undyed leather by applying it with my finger over the top surface. It darkened the leather with somewhat of a redish tone but left a nice finish and seemed like it was thoroughly dry within about 30 minutes. I had one sheath that was previously dyed with Fiebings Saddle Tan Pro Oil Dye and thought, what the heck...I'll give it a shot. I can always make another sheath, RIGHT!
Here is the result. The finish was nice but it does make a completely different color; darker with a bit of a red. I'd call it a chestnut color. The first image is of both sheaths that were dyed with the same Fiebings dye and shown side by side for comparison. The lighter sheath is finished with one application of Lexol, allowed to dry, then finished with a coat of Ren. wax. That is usually how I finish my projects. I'm not always happy with the final product.
Here is something I discovered because I wanted to try something different. I'm sure there are better ways to finish leather, I'm just sharing the results of my experiment.After doing a little research on different ways that folks apply finishes on completed leather projects, wanting to use Tan Kote as a final finish and not having any on hand, I found this document:
http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/4h8058/$FILE/PELF_KenCameronHowtoCleanASaddle_2006.pdf
It's says at the bottom of page 2:
Waxing cover protectant to avoid dirt and moisture from entering the surface of the leather, not to seal the leather. Healthy leather needs to be able to accept moisturizing from time to time at a later date and breathe. An acrylic wax such as Tan Kote, Bag Kote or Future Floor Was will protect the surface and still allow you to moisturize the leather at a later date.
BTW, I did some more Googling and found lots of uses for Future Floor Shine/Wax, especially in the scale modeling world. Anyway, wanting to do a little experimenting, I headed off to Kroger to see if they had Future Floor Shine/Wax....they didn't...but they had Pledge with Future Shine which is a clear acrylic finish.
I tested it on a small piece of undyed leather by applying it with my finger over the top surface. It darkened the leather with somewhat of a redish tone but left a nice finish and seemed like it was thoroughly dry within about 30 minutes. I had one sheath that was previously dyed with Fiebings Saddle Tan Pro Oil Dye and thought, what the heck...I'll give it a shot. I can always make another sheath, RIGHT!
Here is the result. The finish was nice but it does make a completely different color; darker with a bit of a red. I'd call it a chestnut color. The first image is of both sheaths that were dyed with the same Fiebings dye and shown side by side for comparison. The lighter sheath is finished with one application of Lexol, allowed to dry, then finished with a coat of Ren. wax. That is usually how I finish my projects. I'm not always happy with the final product.
