Advice needed on fixing a weak slipjoint spring.

Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
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Could any of you fine gents offer any advice on how to fix a weak spring on a Old Timer main blade ? The other blades have a good snap to them. I'm also trying to figure out if it is worth the effort for this inexpensive knife with no emotional attachment.
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I'm not sure there's any way to fix a weak spring, as the springiness is heat treated into the spring itself. there's nothing to adjust for, unless you want to install a spring that's tempered stronger.
 
I'm not sure there's any way to fix a weak spring, as the springiness is heat treated into the spring itself. there's nothing to adjust for, unless you want to install a spring that's tempered stronger.

I think that's right.
 
I'm not sure there's any way to fix a weak spring, as the springiness is heat treated into the spring itself. there's nothing to adjust for, unless you want to install a spring that's tempered stronger.

Wrong

I think that's right.

And wrong.

Flex has nothing to do with how hard a steel is. Geometry is what give the amount of force. Think about fillet knives heat treated to hRc 61 and they flex, also razor blades HT to 63 and they flex like crazy.

Kevin, we might be able to put a litte snap back into it if we unpin it and possibly flex the spring towards the pivot a little further, also could make a new spring, otherwise give it to a woman who gets her nails done, that way she won't chip them trying to open it.


-Xander
 
The "proper" way is to unpin it and get a new spring fabricated or try to re-temper the old one. One could try slightly bending the original spring to add tension. Either way, big pain in the neck, costly, relative to the original knife.

The hack way is to use a flat punch of some kind, a hammer, and some kind of steady like an anvil, to slightly bend the spring without disassembly. This is of limited usefulness, and can easily destroy a knife as fix it, especially if unsure or not careful.
 
Before doing anything else, look for rust and/or dirt in the joint and try a thorough cleaning and oiling. In the case of one or two of my knives, that's all it took. You might be lucky.
 
Before you try to "unpin" it, or cut the pins, determine whether it is in fact a pinned knife. It may have "key" assembly, like many Schrades. One can safely and easily cut a pinned knife apart in two minutes, without damaging anything but the pins!
 
Thanks alot y'all! I will try to clean and lube to see if that helps. I don't know if I want to go through all the work of unpinning and making a new spring for this knife.Then again it might be a fun project and a good learning experience.
 
Kevin, it isn't hard, depending on the spring configuration, you might be able to get away with only having to pull the middle pin. Besides, what better way to learn slip joints?!


-Xander
 
Probably just get a new one.

Anyway though, when closed, does the spring sit flush with the liners, or below the surface? What may have happened is the spring or tang has gotten worn from use. That may be the reason for the feel of a weak spring. That makes sense, as that main blade is often the most used blade in a knife like that.

As Charlie said, that is most likely a Swinden construction, so there are no "through" pins on the knife at those joints.

Lastly, I have seen where people were able to introduce a shim between the blade tang and the spring, thereby putting more tension on the spring.

If you get a new knife, be sure to share some pics!
 
I agree with some of the others here: that knife is probably made with Swinden key construction, in which case it's not a very good candidate for taking apart to repair.
 
why can't you just send it in to get them to fix it. don't they have a life time Warranty?

From their website, it appears Taylor Brands has a limited lifetime warranty on their own knives to the original purchaser only. Nothing about repairing Schrade's Schrades, even if OP were the original owner.
 
Glenbad, all back springs are flush.I checked and it has a Swinden type construction. I think you may be right about the wear on the spring/tang.
As far as the warranty goes I am not the original owner.
I have a feeling FastRiot is going to make me take this knife apart and learn me a thing or two about slipjoint construction.I have a old Imperial that was my Grandfathers that I want to restore so this will be good practice.
Thank you to you all for your help.
 
You got that right Kevin! I go some more reading material for ya too, its about tang geometry and spring relationship on slip joints.


-Xander
 
Also, like I mentioned earlier, depending on the spring configuration we may only hve to pull the middle spring pin, and not worry about dealing with the swinden keys.


-X
 
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