All About Salt Baths

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Sep 9, 2003
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I actually got an idea to write an informative post about salt baths about a month ago, when I saw some very puzzling post/ false assumptions regarding them, but the notes I started got set aside. However with the amount of recent posts regarding them I though it may be worth while to finish the writing and post the information that I have.

Many of us would love to believe we are some sort of innovator or pioneer because we use salt baths, or that we were using them before others. The truth is that salt baths are VERY old news in industry. Records go back to their industrial use in America and places as distant as China to the turn of the 20Th century. By the 1930’s they had been around long enough to be so commonplace as to not even be notable.

The first account I have of a custom knifemaker in America describing a use of salt baths is in 1984 at the first ABS hammer-ins in Wyoming, where German smith Heinrich Frank explained how he used a little table top salt bath to heat treat small blades after he had engraved them. By all accounts the mention was pretty much ignored by most knifemakers who found it too esoteric. The first full scale demonstration of salt baths, high and low temp, in use, that I am aware of, was many years later at the New England Bladesmith Guild Ashokan seminar, where smiths such as Dan Maragni, Phil Baldwin and Tim Zowada were quite familiar with the wide scale industrial uses and recognized the potential for knifemakers. Tim Zowada had designed a stackable columnar kiln to be built by the Evenheat Kiln Company in MI specifically for salt bath use. Folks like Al Pendray may have been working with the ideas in their shop at this time, but I believe Ashokan was the first full public demonstration by custom smiths.

It wasn’t too long after this that I got set up with a high temp unit of my own due to my increasing work with swords. If none of my blades would have ever exceeded 10” I doubt I would have developed the motivation to take on the added expense and maintenance of the necessary equipment. For those who not familiar with my work, I have been using these tools for many years, I have helped many others, from individual knifemakers to large production companies, get set up with and properly use them. I didn’t invent anything about them, I am no innovator in their use, but I have plenty of experience and a good understanding of their use in knife/sword shops.

What are salt baths anyhow?

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They are not brine solutions, brine is a very fast quenchant achieved by mixing salt (around 9%) with water. Salt baths are a different beast from the normal bladesmiths heat treating entirely. When steel is heated for the quench several problems arise at the necessary temperatures. Common issues in forges or ovens are times required for thorough heating, scaling and oxidation, decarburization, uneven heating and over heating of thinner parts. Most of these issues are connected to the atmospheres. Air is an insulator so heating is slow. Air contains oxygen so oxidation and scaling will always be present, even if you eliminate the oxygen in the heating chamber there will be momentary exposure when the part is removed. Most of the same applies to decarburization, and forges are very prone to overheating tips and edges.

Salt baths were industry's (and eventually some knifemakers) answer to many of these issues. A salt bath is a volume of superheated molten salts that replace the atmosphere and heating chamber of the traditional oven, kiln or forge. The high temperature salts that most knifemakers would use are primarily NaCl based and begin to melt at around 1275F and have a working range up to around 1600F, but can go higher with other elements added to the chemistry. Most knifemakers find a columnar, tube type design to be the most convenient so I will focus on that. Picture a tube filled with crystalline NaCl salts that is sticking out the top of an enclosed heating chamber (either electric kiln, or gas fired). Heat is applied until the salts melt and then the liquid can be adjusted to any temperature you like within their working range.

The blade is then placed not into an evacuated or gaseous open space, but immersed into this superheated liquid. Because it is a liquid (a conductor) the first thing you will note is the speed with which the steel will come up to temperature, indeed the only thing I have seen heat quicker is induction. The next thing you will notice is how evenly the heating will be. Unlike radiant heat traveling through an insulative space where thin sections can overheat and thick areas still not reach temperature, the totally even and conductive nature of the salts will not allow this. The cycling overshoot and undershoot nature of electrical elements is overcome by the conductive and convective effects of the mass of salts.

Then there is the total absence of oxygen or other atmospheres under the surface of the salts. There is no scaling nor oxidation whatsoever because there is no oxygen involved in the heating. That is not to say that poorly maintained salts cannot tear up a blade, they are superheated NaCl salts after all. This is why proper salts prepared for, and intended for, the purpose are important along with regular monitoring and maintenance being essential. Contaminated or tired salts that get out of neutrality will begin to pit and decarburize steel on levels that will make you long for a forge or kiln again. However if you know what you are doing and pay attention to proper maintenance, salts pretty much eliminate oxidation, scaling or decarb.

I take all of my blades to the final hand rubbed polish BEFORE heat treating, and could even sharpen the blades if I wanted to without any concerns that the blades would be just fine afterwards. All I do is a quick rub down with 800X on damascus blades before proceeding to etching, with no concerns about scaling, decarb, or overheated edges or tips.

But why don’t you get decarb and scale when you pull the hot blade from the salts, you may ask? Because the blade is wet with a thin protective coating of salts, now if you left it exposed long enough you may have problems, but that length of time would also negate your entire quenching operation as well.

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The inherent benefits should already be apparent, but no salt bath should be complete without a digital controller to give the hand free, unequalled precision. Wired to a relay or valve to control the electricity or gas supply to the heating device is a PID electronic controller to which you attach a thermocouple probe which goes into the salts and sends temperature readings back to the controller. The controller uses this input to control the heat source and regulate the temperature of the salts to with 1F. or 2F. of the set temperature, to give one control over the austenitizing process that you may have never dreamed of.

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I have seen it fallaciously implied that things like salt baths can have negative effects on things such as grain size; this is totally false to a level that causes me to seriously consider the motives of anybody who would suggest something so erroneous. Serious steel industries turned to this technology to achieve controls that are still unparalelled in many applications. In the ranges for the steels we work, temperature is the key factor in final grain size, and with salt baths even someone new to heat treating with a few keystrokes can dial in any size they would like to maintain with temperature accuracy not possible with a forge or a torch. It is just a fact that I can punch in any number in the liquid range of the salts and hold it within 1-2 degrees for as long as I please.

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You will notice I have used the word maintain and maintenance many times here. This is not a simple apparatus I have described and requires that you maintain it properly in order for it to work properly. Those who feel threatened by, or are hostile for some reason toward, this level of technology are too quick to point out that you rely on the controller instead of yourself, and what if the controller doesn’t work right. This is a straw man argument that is only valid under the assumption of the worst of circumstances. What if you decide you don’t have to maintain a coal fire? I have seen worst messes from clinker loaded fire pots than out of sync salt pots. What happens to your grinds if you neglect your grinder until it no longer tracks properly? Blaming equipment for our not doing our part is a feeble argument at best, salt pots are no different, it is our responsibility to maintain them and verify their performance.

The salts must be kept in neutrality, some folks stir them with carbon rods, I use a carbon based powder on the top. It is also a good idea to take a percentage of the old salts out and add some fresh occasionally. Industry uses regular titrations and chemical additives to accomplish this on large scale setups.

TIP- should you ever want to empty a tube of high temp salt, DO NOT risk your safety by heating them to do it. Take the cold tube to the back corner of your garden and put a running garden hose into it and in around 30 minutes it will hold nothing but some briny water.

Don’t let the critics get you, calibrate your thermocouple occasionally. I put them into boiling water, which where I live is a guaranteed 212F. If you have several you can also check them against each other. Should you find the inconel sheathing getting thin or ragged please replace them rather than risking a blowout, at worst, or bad readings at best.

There I went an entire post without mentioning how high temps salts can kill you. But do be aware that if you don’t take care of them and respect them they can kill you, and proper maintenance will go a along ways in preventing any problems.
 
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The first part of this tome was about high temp salt baths, but many people have probably heard about using salt baths for tempering or quenching, this is a different unit that, although it often in excess of 400F, is called a “low” temp salt bath. The set up and design is the same as the high temp but the salts used are potassium nitrate, sodium nitrite salts carefully prepared for this application (although they are similar in composition to bluing salts they are not bluing salts). These salts come in a few types, the one I am familiar is Thermo-quench (by our cantankerous buddies at Parks/HeatBath). It melts at around 275F and can be heated to a little above 700F. Be careful not to ever let these salts exceed 1000F! You have a tube full of nitrates; you do not want to heat them until they are unstable, unless you are determined to have a crater where your shop was!

The idea here is to use these liquid salts to quench or temper your blades after they are heated in the high temperature salts. For quenching this allows you to utilize methods of martempering/marquenching. Which involves quenching the steel into a medium that is no cooler than Ms (the point things start to harden) for that steel and then arresting the quench until temperatures equalize so that you can proceed at a slower and gentler pace.
Many of the problems we encounter with cracking and distortion are caused by stresses of uneven transformation as our blades cool from Ms to room temp., this can all but be eliminated by these methods. The other advantage is that if one spots a warp, as the blade is cooling after removal from the low temp salts, a simple push with heavily gloved hands can easily remove it.

Many people hear about these wonderful tricks and bypass the high temp salts to go just with the low temp, I strongly discourage this as a huge mistake. The greatest benefits from salt baths will be seen in the evenness and control of the high temp salts. As much as 50% of your warpage will be corrected by more even and accurate heating rather than dealing with it with low temp salts. You can still quench into oil or any other medium from the high temp salts, but quenching into low temp salts from a forge or other device doesn’t really accomplish as much.

Low temp salts are NOT necessarily safer than the high temps either, they seem much more benign but I have received 10 times the number of much more sever burns by having 400F nitrate salts sticking to my skin like molten plastic. They are very hygroscopic and if not sealed will pull water into them only to release it violently they boil over their tube and destroy your kilns in an electrocuting blue fireworks display. And above all they are once again basically a huge volume of salt peter, anything organic they contact will be turned into a volatile fuse that you will not extinguish by water or stomping but will need to be kicked outdoors to sputter and smoke until it is spent.

Also do not bother with low temp salts if you use the following steels- any 10XX series, W1, W2 or any other shallow hardening or water quenchable steel, the salts will not provide the thermal extraction rate needed to through harden these alloys without leaving loads of fine pearlite. Some say they can, but I have tested this for years now with every suggested approach and have not eliminated the pearlite. Actually I did find a way, but the results were worse than the pearlite:(.

5160, 52100, O1, L6, etc… or any other oil hardening steel will all work fine in low temp salts.

Do not be alarmed if you quench your O1 into 400F low temp salts, air cool after equalizing for 1.5-2 minutes, and find your as-quenched hardness to be 64 instead of 65HRC. Many people who obviously don’t understand this process believe that marquenching results in lower absolute hardness, but what they don’t understand is the auto-tempering effect. Since as much as 40% of your martensite will form at temperatures at which tempering can occur and will be subjected to them for extended periods in the air cooling. You may fully harden your blade but a good percentage of tempering has already started so you will not see the unnecessarily high hardness readings from a blade that was quenched all the way cold.

Speaking of tempering, a huge advantage of low temp salts is that once your blade is cold you need an accurate heat source to temper it. Well, setting there is a tube full of 400F salts capable of heating that blade more quickly and evenly than any oven, so you just put the blades right back in and temper.

After all is done the light coating of salts can get washed of with warm soapy water. Blades that have been quenched and tempered in low temp salts will have a grayish-blue color from the nitrates, this will polish off in a couple of passes with a very fine paper (800X+), and needs to be removed before etching damascus as it is basically a bluing and will resist any oxidation including rust and FeCl etching.
 
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I am not a proponent of pushing everybody I meet in the direction of salt baths. I believe they are a gross overkill and a huge unnecessary expense for what the vast majority of bladesmiths do. If you love the thrill of watching decalescence in your blade as you pass it though your forge, and enjoy fiddling with different clay and differential hardening techniques salt baths are probably not for you. I use them because my swords and the metallurgical heat treating and testing require the control and accuracy among other features.

Salt baths will not make you a better bladesmith! Only practice and your skills will do that! Salt baths will not make super-blades or replace the need for knowledge or skills. They are not a shortcut, magic pill or magic bullet; in fact to get the most out of them you will need a better understanding of steel and how to treat it than many of your peers. If you are not willing to do the research to use them correctly, you are better off sticking with a forge or a torch.

If you feel that salts baths are too expensive but have ideas on how to improvise them or rig them up cheaply- please leave them alone! You may either maim yourself or die! These are very powerful tools, half-assin them will not get you a better product but only allow you to ruin more knives more quickly.

The greatest benefit of salt baths is consistency. If you have an uncontrollable need for your 50th blade to come out with the exact same qualities as your 5th, then salt baths can do that, just be aware that they will reproduce the bad along with the good if you are not willing to do your homework.

TIP- Never, NEVER, NEVER, look directly into the top of a high temp tube or put your face over it for ANY reason, I have a little hand held mirror for that and beg you to do the same. I would look down the barrel of my 16gauge before I would put my face over that tube.

Why am I such a scaremonger when talking about these units?

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This is just one reason. This is a blast/burn pattern left on a ceiling 14 feet above the floor when a 1500F NaCl shotgun with 5” diameter bore decides to go off. My hair and my clothing were on fire and my shop would have been if I had more wooden structure. All I had done was check a direct reading on some test pieces with a thermocouple that had a bad spot in the inconel sheathing, minutes later I was outside my shop, shaking, well burnt and assessing how much I would like to see my children grow up! This is just one incident among many I could share that occurred when I let my guard down for a second around these devices. Those who say they are not to be totally respected have been VERY lucky and are just getting by until their time comes. Please respect them and listen to any warnings people give.

Use these pages as you will, I hope they are helpful. I will not be widely available for question and answer regarding this as I have found that is not a productive approach for me here, I will leave that to those who have learned these same things and still have the spirit to debate them. Those who want to learn more can reach me elsewhere.
 
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That was a very interesting and informative read. That must have taken some time to write-up - thanks Kevin!

You should write stickies, you are a fluid and comprehensible writer, much appreciated!
 
Thank you Kevin. One thing I do not understand is how the thermocouple caused the explosion. Was the instant vaporization of something inside the sheath responsible? I would have thought anything inside the sheath would be capable of withstanding the heat. Did the salt react with the insulation or the metal in the wire? I am not doubting it happened just wondering why. I understand how any moisture induced in the hot salt would cause a big bang, but if there was moisture inside the thermocouple sheath wouldn't it vaporize, pressurize and rupture the sheath even if it was in good condition.
 
Kevin its not true that by using salt baths you eliminate all decarburisation problems. Its more accurate to say that it is very much less of a problem than some other methods, but it doesnt eliminate the issue. Modern inert atmosphere high pressure furnaces are guaranteed not to decarburise - when I got mine done it was part of the sales terms and the metallographic examinations I paid for on test samples proved the outcome.

Simply removing any thin decarburised area is an easy fix for those who do not want to net finish before heat treating as far as possible.

Clearly salt pots have advantages to other methods and it can be DIY project. High pressure gas quench furnaces using inert atmospheres isnt a DIY project for most :)
 
Kevin,
Couldn't you just put Morton non-iodozed salt in a coffee can and heat it with a JT-7 torch until they melt? :confused:
Seems like all that science stuff is not necessary. I'm sure you could do it for less than $20.:D
BTW, You have to use non-iodozed salt or the iodone will vaporive and kill you.:eek:

Just kidding, Good thread.:thumbup:
Stacy
 
Great thread sounds like one of the best methods to heat treat but very tricky and dangerous for a beginer.
 
Clay poses many threats and problems for high temp salts. First and foremost it would be nearly impossible for me to be certain enough to feel safe that all the moisture was gone from the clay and it posed no threat for popping, and spattering or exploding the salts. If you should safely get the clay under the surface it would then raise holy #@ll with the neutrality of the salts resulting in heavy decarb or pitting of not just that blade but any placed in those salts in the future.
 
Very cool info and i learn so much , ok now will be the time to hunt down a Diy Plan to build my own Salt bath :P or a smaller version of it :) Great Info . great read
 
Ok, somebody; Did I understand Kevin to say that the 10xx series, and W1 and 2 should not be placed in low temp salts? I think that's the way I read it. If so, then after coming out of the hi-temp salts, would quenching oil work ok. This is for damascus and W2.
Robert
 
Ok, somebody; Did I understand Kevin to say that the 10xx series, and W1 and 2 should not be placed in low temp salts? I think that's the way I read it. If so, then after coming out of the hi-temp salts, would quenching oil work ok. This is for damascus and W2.
Robert

Yes that is what you read, while some say they have done it, I have tried it from every possible angle and have never been able to eliminate fine pearlite to a level I could live with. Low temp salts just do not a cooling curve that matches that needed for shallow hardening steels, for much the same reasons slower oils don’t work well with these steels either. However, oil hardening steels (O1, L6, 5160, 52100, etc…) work well with salts since the allowing makes for a curve that matches medium speed oils and salts nicely.

For W1, W2, 1095, 1084, 1080, 1075, and any other shallow hardening steel, I use high temp salts to austenitize and then just quench into a fast oil. The steel doesn’t know, or even care, what the source of heat is, so one still have all the benefits of the high temp salt heating and then just quench in oil as you normally would. In fact I can’t stress enough that if one has decided to take the plunge with salt baths, the high temp salts are of the greatest benefit and are the ones to get if you can only afford one. Many get hung up on the whole martempering/austempering thing and feel they have to get the low temp first; this entirely backwards. Precise heating and soak times will produce the greatest gains in your results in all methods of hardening
 
Good! I have that straight now. Don Hanson also steered me in the right direction with an answer that ditto's yours.
I have both Brownell's super quench, and some Texaco A (or is it B) that I bought from a gentleman by the name of Justice, I think it was Shane. This oil came upon the suggestion of Ed Fowler, so it may be for deeper hardening steels like the 52100 that he
exclusively uses. Should I go with the Super Quench, or find something altogether differient? BTW Don indicated that the Super Quench should work, but I'd like to get the absolute best possible thing, next to H2O that is, or maybe I already have it?
Thanks Kevin for the help!
Robert
 
thank you for the information - i will go back and read it again a couple times
 
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