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Announcing the new Baryonyx "Arctic Fox" scythe stone!

FortyTwoBlades

Baryonyx walkeri
Dealer / Materials Provider
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
25,736
Those of you who know me are already well aware that I love scythe stones--not just because I love scythes, but because the shape of scythe stones (sometimes called "canoe" stones or "lawn and garden" stones) is so versatile for sharpening all manner of tools.

However, there's been little variety available of them in the US for a long time now, and while I was able to import a bunch of different models from some European companies, the manufacturers would sometimes switch models for the same product number and supply has something like a two month lag time. Lastly, even though the variety I'd been able to source were all great and I'll continue to import them, the spread of sharpening qualities only covered certain areas and there were a lot of possible configurations that weren't being tapped. Luckily I found a US manufacturer that was able to do up a batch of stones to my specifications regarding grit, abrasive type, and bond strength, and were even able to do them in this nifty ice blue color!

400 grit aluminum oxide with a medium-hard bond, it produces a finer edge than one might expect for its grit rating. Cuts fast, holds water well, resists glazing, is hard enough to bear down to realign rolled edges, and produces a very keen edge that easily dry shaves while retaining the “sticky” bite of a medium or coarse stone. I've been using one for pretty much all of my general sharpening tasks since they landed a few days ago and I'm absolutely in love with it. :D

There are very few things one can't sharpen with a scythe stone, as the curved edges and flat faces make for easy sharpening of convex, flat, and even hollow bevels, while the tapered ends allow both for a comfortable hold on the stone and good clearance for detail sharpening.

As the edges come very crisp from the factory, we're also offering a dressing service to add a slight or heavy (according to preference) fillet to reduce edge chipping from accidental impacts and improve contact surface area on forward-curving blades when using the narrow curved faces, such as on kukris, grass hooks, and scythes.

Factory crisp edges:
IMG_5463-1024x694.jpg


IMG_5464-1024x694.jpg


Filleted edges:

IMG_5465-1024x694.jpg


IMG_5466-1024x694.jpg


IMG_5467-1024x694.jpg


IMG_5468-1024x694.jpg
 
A question (maybe two):

As used with water, does this stone wear like a water stone?

In the pics shown of the filleted edges, is that the 'light' or 'heavy' filleting shown? I'm noticing these two options on your web site description.

Questions aside, that looks pretty tempting.

Thanks,


David
 
A question (maybe two):

As used with water, does this stone wear like a water stone?

In the pics shown of the filleted edges, is that the 'light' or 'heavy' filleting shown? I'm noticing these two options on your web site description.

Questions aside, that looks pretty tempting.

Thanks,


David

Most water stones have a fairly low bond strength, while these are done medium-hard, so you'll find it wears like a good quality India stone (which it effectively is). It'll shed a little grit in use to expose fresh cutting surface, but not so much as to create a mud or slurry. If you want to create such a slurry or deliberately expose fresh surface (if not using enough pressure to cause it to happen on its own at a desired rate) you can use two of them in tandem to rub one against the other.

The pictures of the filleted stone are a little shy of heavy. My personal one I've put a light fillet on just enough to "break" the edges and it's still pretty square to the point where it doesn't interfere with sharpening the base of knife blades. The one shown is a bit more severe, but would be done just a hair more rounded if really going for the heavy option--it makes it follow curves a bit more like a large ceramic rod would.
 
Thank you. :thumbup:


David

Most water stones have a fairly low bond strength, while these are done medium-hard, so you'll find it wears like a good quality India stone (which it effectively is). It'll shed a little grit in use to expose fresh cutting surface, but not so much as to create a mud or slurry. If you want to create such a slurry or deliberately expose fresh surface (if not using enough pressure to cause it to happen on its own at a desired rate) you can use two of them in tandem to rub one against the other.

The pictures of the filleted stone are a little shy of heavy. My personal one I've put a light fillet on just enough to "break" the edges and it's still pretty square to the point where it doesn't interfere with sharpening the base of knife blades. The one shown is a bit more severe, but would be done just a hair more rounded if really going for the heavy option--it makes it follow curves a bit more like a large ceramic rod would.
 
They work great for that. You bring the stone to the blade like a file. :thumbup:
 
Something I'd like to mention here is that now that I'm a bit better at putting together videos I plan on revamping the older video I did on scythe stones and their many uses. If anyone has particular tools they'd like to see sharpened with one or particular applications or scenarios you'd like to see discussed, please let me know and I'll do what I can to include them in the new video. :)
 
I was wondering if you sell many of those old fashioned sandstone grinding wheels for sharpening. I think it would be pretty cool to own one set up the way you have with the foot petal. I also noticed you have other scythe stones (Italian, if I recall). What is the difference?
 
I was wondering if you sell many of those old fashioned sandstone grinding wheels for sharpening. I think it would be pretty cool to own one set up the way you have with the foot petal. I also noticed you have other scythe stones (Italian, if I recall). What is the difference?

Yeah, demand actually has been exceeding supply on the grinding wheels! They're not necessarily high-volume sellers per se, but with a two month lead time on restocks I've consistently gotten more inquiries for them than the number I've been able to have available. I did some further refinements to my personal rig (including patching the void in the wheel that caused it to be a demo model in the first place) and have plans on taking another video with that, using a stool etc. this time. It's now set up in my preferred manner, with the wheel turning away from the user rather than towards. Though it builds more of a burr that way it also doesn't bulge water messily over the top of the blade and it's easier to control. The whole unit is surprisingly light and easy to carry around, and I even screwed the wheel's well to the stand using machine screws and T nuts so it can be broken down and re-assembled as many times as you choose without wearing out the wood.

As far as the other stones we carry, the difference is in the grit size, bond strength, porosity, etc. They're all a little different in the way they behave. I own and use all of the different ones we carry, as well as a handful of others that are harder to come by, and the Arctic Fox model was designed using my experiences with those other stones.
 
If anyone has particular tools they'd like to see sharpened with one or particular applications or scenarios you'd like to see discussed, please let me know and I'll do what I can to include them in the new video. :)

I'd love to see some detail on sharpening the curved belly of machetes and similar. The long flat sections are easy enough for me, but getting a consistent angle around the curved part of the blade is a challenge. There's the curve itself, plus the fact that the blade is getting thicker as you move up to the point and spine. I'm working with files and bench stones, but will soon get one of your scythe stones, too.
 
Absolutely can do. I find that visualizing the center of the arc's radius tends to help.

As a fun fact, I discovered today that not only does my manufacturing contractor for these produce for a number of big names, but they're something of the "true" inheritors of the Carborundum Co. legacy. While Norton/St. Gobain bought the company itself, these guys bought all the old molds and pattern documents. How cool is that? :D
 
Thanks! Did this little video today as the first in a series that demonstrate how to sharpen a wide array of tools using a scythe stone. We'll have another member of the "Arctic Fox" family landing in about 4 weeks, too, so stay tuned. The scythe stones have been starting to land in customers' laps and I had one of them literally describe its performance as "magical". Very pleased with how these perform. :D

[video=youtube;x21wIscC06g]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x21wIscC06g&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
Thanks, man! :D Will be getting the little axe clip up later today if things go to plan.
 
Part two in the series. :)

[video=youtube;YzlNroRn_Q0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzlNroRn_Q0[/video]
 
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