Anodize Titanium

TacticalBlade

BANNED
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
239
For some of you out there, this is old news, but, for others, this could be a sweet way to dress up a simple knife to your tastes, or take that all black tactical knife and give it some color. Works on all titanium, is simple, and relatively safe. I have never anodized aluminum, but from researching it a bit, the chemicals necessary can make it hazardous to say the least. Ti though,only requires a few items and can essentially be free with some searching.

What you need:
Titanium of some sort, polished works much better than bead blasted, I havent tried a stonewashed ti but i'm sure the effect would be similar to polished.
Acetone/ brake cleaner/ simple green
Vinegar (Costco has large bottles, I prefer using it straight, some dilute)
stainless steel wire
Stainless steel electrode (Should have similar surface area to piece to be anodized)
DC voltage source (Car/marine battery charger, Benchtop variable supply, Batteries although the first 2 are more reliable, hacked wall transformers wired in series but dont try this unless you know what you are doing and have a voltmeter to verify and they have to be 1500 miliamps or more)
Rubber gloves (My EMS nitrile gloves work well and are cheap, thicker gloves couldnt hurt though)
Plastic container (Ziploc tupperwares work great)


Process:

Prepare the Ti. The choice of preparation is up to you. Sandpaper, steel wool, dremel, scotchbrite pad, micromesh, etc. If its stonewashed, you can decide whether polishing is necessary.

PUT YOUR GLOVES ON HERE!!!!!

Clean your part with any of the above-mentioned chemicals. Acetone and brake cleaner are my favorites but simple green will work.

You will need a container to house the part to be anodized, I orginally anodized MY umnumzaan so it had to hold the individual scales. Make sure you have enough room to keep your positive electrode off of the part being anodized, Tape the positive electrode(Stainless steel bar) to the side of the container to be safe. Place your part in the container and fill it with enough vinegar that it will be completely covered and more.


Color is obtained by voltage. A quick google search should help you dial in on your colors, or play with trial and error. Low voltage colors are purples and blues, midrange gets in the pink and reds and the top end will be yellows and greens. The nice thing is, multiple colors can be done on one part by doing the high voltage colors first and then polishing off where you want other colors to go. The high voltage green will be unaffected by adding a low voltage blue to the polished parts. Blue however, will turn green when the higher voltage is applied.

You will need to obtain a voltage anywhere from 12-90 volts, this may require multiple battery chargers connected in series (thats black to red with the first red and last black being your plus and minus for the process. Put 5-10 amp fuses between the chargers to be safe) Dont turn them on until you are ready to begin. A combination of a car battery charger, proper filtering with a rectifier and some capacitors and a variable bench top power supply will allow you to fine tune your colors. Dont try the capacitors and rectifiers unless you know what you are doing. Electrolytics can go boom, diodes can burn up and fracture, research it if you want, but try that at your own risk.


Connect the stainless bar thats taped to the container to the positive terminal on the power supply and place the stainless steel wire bent in a "J" shape to not scratch the ti in the negative terminal. Assure that nothing is touching between the positive, and part to be anodized, and then turn your supply on. If nothing exploded, you can touch the stainless wire to the part and watch it change colors. turn the part periodically to assure even coloring and when satisfied with the color, remove the negative terminal and wire from the solution and shut the power supply off. Remove the part, wash it to remove the vinegar residue, and admire your anodized Ti.


Some more warnings:
The Vinegar solution will make you more conductive than normally. This is why gloves are so important. 12 volts can be felt with the vinegar on your fingers, it will tingle and you will feel uncomfortable after a while. 90 volts, whill really hurt and potentially kill if you have a weakened heart etc. Its a safe process provided you use your gloves.

I think that wraps it up. If you try this, post pictures. My anodized Umnumzaan can be found with a search I'm sure.
 
sounds like a pretty simple, yet cool project to try out, thanks for the write-up.

do you have a chart or list showing what colors the different voltages produce?
 
Honestly, at one point in time I found one online. It depends on a number of variables to be honest. If you have means of varying voltage with a benchtop supply, find a scrap piece, and immerse it in the solution and ramp the voltage up to 12 or 24 whatever the highest is. make a not of rough color changes. Then add a 12 volt supply from a car battery charger, transformer, SLA battery,etc and connect it in series so now you can optain 36 volts. It anodizes almost instantly so changing the voltage at ~ 1 volt every 3-5 seconds should allow you to see the color sweep. keep connecting voltages in series in 12 volt increments, just remember to turn the variable regulator down to 0 when adding another supply or you will skip 12 volts worth.

I spent half an hour just now looking and cant find a color chart. I just winged it when i first did it and i can understand why there is a variation due to composition of solution. thats why pure vinegar works best, water cant evaporate to change concentration.
 
Just to add to this, I have used diet Pepsi as an electrolyte. It contains enough phosphoric acid to work well and doesn't stink. You can also anodize through stencils using soaked paper towels or a felt pad as the conductor. D-cell batteries in series works well too if you have those on hand, and at 1.5 volts each you can make small steps in voltage easily.


-Xander
 
Alot of things work as an electrolye. Diet pepsi would work, my reasoning for the vinegar is it is clear so color change can be seen without removing the piece. I'm working on a few small Ti projects that I will try anodizing through stencils. I've also used masking tape to mask sections I dont want electrolye contact with. I never had good results without fully submerging the pieces and then anodizing for equal coloring that way. I like the D cell batteries and you could use those in conjunction with other power supplies for the variable voltage.

As a side note, I'm currently building a power supply for this purpose with quadruple 50 volt supplies wired in series internally and then using switches turning them on to power a bus this way you cut down on leads required to connect and the chaos of figuring out what went wrong in the wiring that is causing no current to meet the electrodes.

I may be a simple firefighter/paramedic, but I took a bunch of electronics classes to fill some voids in classes between the big steps and I'm drawing on that for the supply. Apparently, you can get different colors up to about 200 volts.

I'm still trying to figure out a way to "Splash" anodized like is seen with aluminum. Still trying to figure out if i can do that randomly, with a stencil, masking, or what way to get appropriate coloring.

Good to see others try this on an amateur level.
 
Thanks for the info TB. I don't have any scrap pieces of Ti to test it out though. I want to anodize the Ti scale on a Spyderco Military to a brownish/coyote color.
 
I heat anodized mine, colours are a bit shinier than electro anodized and are harder to rub off. More difficult to control and not quite the full range of colours. But all you need is a blowtorch.
 
Thanks for the info parbajtor. Will a propane torch work? or does it need to be hotter?
 
Thanks for the info parbajtor. Will a propane torch work? or does it need to be hotter?
Propylene is hotter and can be used with the same rig as you would a propane torch. I've got good results using that. You have to be careful though. Depending on the piece, it can happen pretty quickly. On one small piece (was my test run), the buckle thingy of my Ti watch heated up real fast like. It did go a nice purple/blue but also kind of burned looking. Bigger parts turned out well. Keep a eye on it.
 
Back
Top