anvil repair/resurface, too far gone?

Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Messages
228
How do you determine if an anvil is too badly dented to be repairable, and if it's not what are the usual repair methods? Can a new face be welded on or the damaged one filled in/ground down?
 
An anvil has to be really - really - really
bad not to be able to repair. It can be
peened if it is just dented. Peening around
the dents with a ball peen hammer will bring
out the dents because the metal is still there. It takes a little work. Welding and
filling in the holes or broken off pieces is
usually the standard fix then grinding flat.
Don't try to polish the surface because the
surface needs to grab the steel your working
on. Polished surfaces grab your eye but don't work the best. Any dents or bumps will
transfer to your work, but it doesn't need
to be glass. Stoody makes a welding rod that
is classifeid as a hardsurfacing rod that work hardens that works pretty well. I use
a workhardening rod from Rockmount Research
and Alloys - It's quite a bit more expensive
and not as available. UTP also has good products for this purpose. I'm positive it
would be worth looking into repair rather than replacement.

goshawk

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http://www.imt.net/~goshawk
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Psalm 91


 
agree with the above....it is repairable... there is a place in N J where they have an all day clinic where you bring your old anvil in and they go thru the process with you and at the end of the day your anvil is as good as new......where it is...i have no idea.....try asking some steel pounders...they would know....

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Thanks for the info, i may go ahead and try to acquire it. As I'm not a welder could we be a bit more specific on how to use work hardning rod to fill in dents? As in what type of welder, settings, ect?
 
I guess the big question is have you ever
welded before?
If not the best thing is to find someone to
do the work for you. There are usually plenty of hobbiest welders that could do the
job for you. All that is needed is either
a buzz box (small stick welder) or a suitcase
wire feed welder. One that is used for sheet
metal or auto body work. The wire feed will
need special wire. as far as settings run it
as cool as it will work good. You don't need
a whole lot of penetration. Just to fill dents. Then take a disk grinder and smooth
out the high spots. If the anvil is dished
quit a bit you may want to build up the low
spots. This will take some time because you
don't want to get the face too hot. You can
use a straight edge to check for low spots.

goshawk

------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Psalm 91


 
:
I don't know if any of y'all get the Blade Magazine or not.
It seems like I read something about different ways to resurface anvils in there a while back.
There was also a fix for an anvil that was to soft if I recall it right.I think a harder piece of steel about 3/8" thick was mounted on the top surface somehow.

I know I read it somewhere.It may have even been on someones web site.
Goshawk do you recall anything like that?

I have another suggestion for what it's worth. You might find a "Farrier" around where you live that could help you with knowing where something like this could be done.S/he may even know the best place to purchase tongs,hardies,punches and other assorted smithing tools.
There is a real nice animal health supply store here in Tulsa that has some really nice quality tools for the smithys and farriers.
They have some real quality prices too.Good tools are never cheap when you buy them,but are always the cheapest in the long haul.IMO.


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>>>>---¥vsa---->®
The civilized man sleeps behind locked doors in the city while the naked savage sleeps (with a knife) in a open hut in the jungle.

 
I had no intention of doing it myself
smile.gif
I need the part#/classification/correct terminology for the stoody rod as well as the RR&A rod so i can acquire some before I haul it over to the local welder. Thanks
James
 
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