Any info on this?

Inquiring about monetary value of implements is taboo on here (otherwise an informative forum such as this would quickly succumb to becoming only an appraisal site) but old, or seemingly old, 'made in USA' goods are always well worth having a look at. Pictures would be nice (and helpful too)!
 
Inquiring about monetary value of implements is taboo on here (otherwise an informative forum such as this would quickly succumb to becoming only an appraisal site) but old, or seemingly old, 'made in USA' goods are always well worth having a look at. Pictures would be nice (and helpful too)!
Sorry i did not know i could not ask if its worth anything.... the pic is up now... it did not attach the first time
 
20171017_211108.jpg


It's marked but a picture from the edge would tell more. The back even better.
 
This source says that the "W. Bingham Co." was incorporated in 1888, and the supply of tools with the "W. Bingham Co." brand ended in 1961:
https://case.edu/ech/articles/w/w-bingham-co/

As a hardware company, they didn't manufacture their axes, but had them made with their brand on them. YesteryearsTools suggests that that Bingham used American Axe & Tool Co. to make some of its axes, at some point:

Example of a paper label (top) used by the A. A. & T. Co. and a paper label used on some axes sold by the W. Bingham Co. strongly suggesting that at one time W. Bingham obtained axes from the A. A. & T. Co. or one of its constituent companies. The W. Bingham Co. was a wholesaler.
Invincible-9.jpg

Excelsior%20Label-9.jpg

 

For comparison, a couple broad axe patterns made by American Axe & Tool. The old Bingham looks like a "Canada Pattern". Note the different poll on the "Pennsylvania Pattern".

BookReaderImages.php

BookReaderImages.php


Also note that the bit on the Bingham looks like it could be significantly worn down, when compared to these catalog pictures. The bit/cheek portion of the new Canada pattern broad axe is just as high as the eye/poll portion, while the Bingham is smaller.


from
The American Axe & Tool Co. [Catalog Excerpt]
 
For comparison, a couple broad axe patterns made by American Axe & Tool. The old Bingham looks like a "Canada Pattern". Note the different poll on the "Pennsylvania Pattern".

BookReaderImages.php

BookReaderImages.php


Also note that the bit on the Bingham looks like it could be significantly worn down, when compared to these catalog pictures. The bit/cheek portion of the new Canada pattern broad axe is just as high as the eye/poll portion, while the Bingham is smaller.


from
The American Axe & Tool Co. [Catalog Excerpt]
For comparison, a couple broad axe patterns made by American Axe & Tool. The old Bingham looks like a "Canada Pattern". Note the different poll on the "Pennsylvania Pattern".

BookReaderImages.php

BookReaderImages.php


Also note that the bit on the Bingham looks like it could be significantly worn down, when compared to these catalog pictures. The bit/cheek portion of the new Canada pattern broad axe is just as high as the eye/poll portion, while the Bingham is smaller.


from
The American Axe & Tool Co. [Catalog Excerpt]
Yes the bit does look like it has been worn quite a bit.
 
Great to see these. I’ve just discovered the site, a user rather than a collector. Does the back (flat side) have any convexity? The best (oldest) broadaxes I’ve used have about 3/16” from heel to toe, rather than *entirely flat.
Contemporary forgings *rarely include this important lesson from the 16-19th C.!

What I really want to know is how to mount a (curved) broadaxe handle so it can readily be changed from L hand to R hand....
 
Great to see these. I’ve just discovered the site, a user rather than a collector. Does the back (flat side) have any convexity? The best (oldest) broadaxes I’ve used have about 3/16” from heel to toe, rather than *entirely flat.
Contemporary forgings *rarely include this important lesson from the 16-19th C.!

What I really want to know is how to mount a (curved) broadaxe handle so it can readily be changed from L hand to R hand....
The back is relativly flat
 
Just steam a bend in the otherwise straight handle to one side. The eye has to have have a symetrical shape though, otherwise you need to make 2 hafts anyway. [\QUOTE]

Thx for your reply.
Yes, I have a finger-preserving (double) bend of almost three inches. Yes, the eye is symmetrical, as is the handle.
The Swedes, Latvians, and Norse do it with the same, rotated haft —for *final truing of a hew, or for trimming in an otherwise-finished corner.... to avoid needing *two (handed) axes, left and right.
Just I cannot figure how to sufficiently secure it for anything more than a light swing.


But why would you want to change it? You still need to wedge it, so getting it out again wont be easy. Making a slip fit would work to change a handle though, but I wouldn't use one because of headweight. When it slams down from the handle onto your hands you'll know why!

The Northmen use a slip fit, simply seated by an axial (no pun intended) stumping blow on the handle-end.
Maybe I just need to make a (proud) wedge that’s removed or cam-set; so far, a fail. And an exaggerated ear on the handle.
 
Gotta say, its great to find an active forum populated by devotees! Are you a collector?
 
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