any practical snare / improvised trap experience?

j_d

Joined
Jan 14, 2006
Messages
283
Greetings, every once and a while I get the idea that I should learn a new pratical skill. I have read and watched a number of books and vids on snaring and improvised trapping including this forum however I'm curious how many folks have acutally "made meat" with them. I've got a couple of areas where I could practice this and am interested in hearing from anyone that can actually harvest small game on a consistent basis using these methods. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Josh
 
The more time you spend being meticulous in placement and construction, the more meat you're going to get. And of course, the more traps.... In Wisconsin we used to catch quail by putting a boot heal in the mud and some bird seed at the bottom. Quail will walk down the ramp to eat the birdseed but can't back out because it ruffles their feathers. They'll sit there for days until you come back with a High Standard .22, unless a redtail beats you to it.
 
I have trapped small game, and pests uising improvised deadfall traps.
i play with snares frequently but don;t use them for harvesting as they are specifically mentined in my local laws as being illegal
when getting into improvised trapping my best advice would be to do so on private property if you can,
know your game laws, and remember traps are no where near as selective as fire arms. there for you could just as easily get a squirrel, or break the leg of the neighbors chiuhaha (spelling?)
trap number and placement is the key to success.. you need a minimum of 5 traps to have to potential of one yeilding but its better to have 20. trap placement is also crucial and that's where the fun part comes in.
you ned to study your quarry before ever taking aknife to wood to carve a trigger.. find out where the are. where they go, how they get there what they eat.. etc etc.
good luck, be safe
 
You may want to try Survival.com fourms. you probably have already seen it, but they also sell a vid on it (Woods Master Vol. 5). I havent been in a survival situation yet, but I try to read and learn what I can. -Good question-

Here a link to that video
http://survival.instantestore.net/pd_wm_vol_5.cfm

Thanks for the suggestions guys. It was actually Ron's survival basics #2 and his demo of the figure 4 deadfall that got me thinking. He did a great job showing how to make one. I'm going to have to plan a couple of days in which to try some.
josh
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. It was actually Ron's survival basics #2 and his demo of the figure 4 deadfall that got me thinking. He did a great job showing how to make one. I'm going to have to plan a couple of days in which to try some.
josh

Ooh yeah, that rubber chicken demonstration that he did was pretty funny.
 
Do-it-yourself traps and snares can be extremely effective.

Once you have understood the basic concepts of how a snare or trap works and are reasonably competent at making them, the most important thing to do is to understand the animals or birds that you are trying to catch. So learning about where the critters live, when they are active, the paths they take, what they eat etc is something that is a big factor leading to trapping success.

I have made hundreds of successful catches using simple snares made from synthetic cord and rope. These were mostly simple set snares with no spring up mechanism.I've also used the figure four deadfall as an effective way of catching rats and mice.

Of course there may be laws in your area which make setting these things illegal, but it doesn't hurt to understand the concepts. And I can't see who would really object to (or find out about) a figure-four deadfall set in your woodshed or garage to catch rats and mice.

Best wishes from New Zealand.... Coote
 
I and my extended family have used trapping and specifically snares as long back as I can recall. Now alot of that was on the ranch to combat coyotes, coons, pole cats etc..... But it was no different in how we set them as kids to catch rabbit and squirrels.

Honestly in a true survial situation on the long term you could do quite well with a good number of snares and some conibear traps. Now for a short term situation of the kind you fall into imo snares are the way to go. Also with as cheap as you can pick up comerical snares by the dozen for and how we'll they work I would go that route vs diy unless you are going to prebuild they like the commercial ones.

We used conibear and steel traps along with snares for everything from predator control to fur usually one in the same critters.

It all depends on the area your in on how where and what wlil work best but they do work. Snares are the most universal IMO. You can snare critters as small as ground squirrels to as large as, well, as large as they come, certainly deer size is not out of the question. As long as the snare and tie off can hold it can take it down. Its the number one way animals are poached off the African reserves and etc..

But unless you have a known active focus point like a burrow hole or choke point game trail you want numbers when it comes to trapping. The more the better your chances and the more careful and observant you are about where you set them upy the better your chances. Baiting also can greatly increase your chances depending on the game.

I would purchase a few dozen snares with a break down of a few different sizes. They packup small and wil take up next to no space in your pack.
 
I never could keep out of a good trap thread:D
To your question, YES, traps can be very effective and don't take nearly the effort of active hunting to "make meat".

SNARES:
For a beginner, using man made materials (cord, wide, etc...) for simple, non moving, snares is one of the easiest ways to learn. Many states allow snares to be used during the legal trapping seasons but be aware of you local game laws in case yours does not. Targeting rabbits, especially in winter when their trails are much more obvious can be a great way to make a couple easy catches and bolster your confidence. The key to trapping, especially with snares is observation. You can't catch an animal where there isn't one. Watching animals movements and learning how to see their signs is the most important part of trap placement, especially when using non baited traps.

DEADFALLS:
My go-to traps. Snares are illegal where I live and in order to teach primitive trapping the people at the Primitive Skills Society all use deadfalls. They are versitile and numerous in style and can kill anything from a mouse to a bear. In fact the Coyote Back Breaking trap I'll show later in a down sized version of a deadfall designed to kill black bear.
Beginners deadfalls- The figure four is the best known deadfall for the beginning trapper to learn and practice. It is simple and VERY effective if you avoid some of the more common mistakes.

1- acute angle- You want as acute an angle as possible on the deadfall. If it is to high up the target animal can jump out of the way. Animals are FAST, especially squirrels and rabbits, and they can jump out of a falling trap faster than you would believe.

2- proper bait- this covers two separate mistakes I see often. You need to bait your trap with something that the animals are going to want to eat. They won't risk the danger of entering a strange trap without a nice reward to temp them. Also, you need to affix the bait so that it can't be easily removed without triggering the trap.

3- scent- Animals outside of your local walking park are weary of people, especially in areas where they are hunted. It is important to leave as little sign of your presence as possible when setting your traps. The best way to do this that I have found is to wash your hands off in the local water source and rub dirt on them so that the natural dirt smell is the predominant odor left on the traps. Always be careful not to rub your eyes or touch your mouth until you have cleaned your hands because the clearest fastest flowing streams can still harbor nasties like Crypto and Giardia.

4- long and sensitive triggers triggers- You want the animal to travel as far under that deadfall as possible so that he has less of a chance of escaping as it starts to fall. You also need a sensitive enough trigger that the small animal has no trouble triggering it while tugging on the bait item.

5- heavy deadfall- You want your killing weight to be at least five times heavier than the animal you are targeting. The last thing you want is to cause a major crushing injury and have the animal crawl away to die slowly somewhere else.

6- Vertical stick placement- My biggest pet peeve in primitive trapping is to see the vertical stick of a fig4 or paiute deadfall directly under the weight/log. This is a sure recipe for the log snagging on the vertical stick and giving the animal time to escape if the weight even falls at all. I have seen many examples of traps set in this manner stopping on the vertical stick and being suspended by it.

There are quite a few others but those are the most common mistakes I see.

My preference is the Paiute deadfall. It incorporates the use of cordage and a toggle so they are just a little more complicated to construct but I find them to be easier to tune.

Here is a Paiute deadfall. The only thing it needs is some bait and a few weighted sticks added to the deadfall.

paiutekill006.jpg


This trap was baited with an acorn. the ground was frozen so squirrels were more likely to be looking for non-cached food items. The weight was a set of split firewood

paiutekill007.jpg


paiutekill014.jpg


paiutekill015.jpg


Here is an example of one way to block off the sides of the trap when using a log or weight that is not very wide. In a real trap the sticks would be set into the ground.

fig4030.jpg


Another way to make a wall to protect the sides from escape is to trap against a tree or other non-movable object. In this example, the wood to the right was also rolled against the trap to block off the other side. This was baited with sunflower seeds.

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Bait- When baiting any of these traps it is important that the bait is secured with more force than it takes to set the trigger. One easy way of doing this is to split the trigger stick and wedge the bait in there tightly. The pics show a hard bait (acorn) and a soft bait (mushroom). It is also important that you do not touch any mushroom you are not familiar with since many of those eaten by animals are still very poisonous to us.

fig4026.jpg


fig4022.jpg


Trap lines- The same philosophy go with all types of traps, the more the better. A nice trap line, especially a cooperative trap line is a great way to increase your chance of catching an animal or of take greater numbers over the same duration. I'm not sure if this is the right pic but I think this is from a cooperative trap line left for only 36 hours a couple years ago. If I recall correctly It had 25 deadfalls total.

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Trapping also allows you to use the entire hide of an animal without dealing with bullet holes.

Here is a vid I made a while ago to go over the ways to tune a fig4 to increase its effectiveness. This is about how to actually kill game, not just make it look like whats in a book.

[youtube]83kczk2Jjtc[/youtube]

For those wanting to set up demonstration traps and to practice at home here is a trap practice board I made last year.


This vid is DEADFALLS

[youtube]OJAjxeO6wvw[/youtube]

This vid is SNARES

[youtube]KJokXgalnkA[/youtube]

This one is a spring spear trap thrown in just for fun.

[youtube]i9KiIjNlJhU[/youtube]
I also mentioned at the beginning that these deadfalls could be used for larger game. This Back Breaker trap is sized for coyote but the full size version is designed for black bear and is roughly six times larger.

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Here is a shot of the trigger

beckerday041.jpg


And here is a short video of how this trap works (sorry for the low quality, shot on a cell phone).

[youtube]EQvEo-CE9WI[/youtube]

You can go the other route and make a primitive mouse trap. This one was fun and caught a few mice before being chewed up by the puppy who mistook it for a toy.

[youtube]hmPwV5dFzTg[/youtube]

I could go on for a lot longer but I'll shut up now. I just get all into these trapping threads and ramble on..... Sorry.
 
Thanks Coote, means a lot coming from you.
For anyone that hasn't been here to long, Coote is THE MAN when it comes to trapping, especially snaring.
 
Thanks for reminding me about the Tilong rodent trap.

In a back corner of our yard we have a couple of plastic compost bins. And just through the fence the neighbors have some chickens in a cage. We live in a semi-rural area and we have rats in the neighborhood. We've had little tunnels dug under our bins and under the fence, and I've had a couple of rat 'sightings'. Our danged dog is very interested in the rats, which isn't a bad thing.... except at times she's been a bit obsessed with them and has dug under the fence. So I poured concrete under the fence where she was digging to stop her collapsing the neighbor's strawberry bed which is built up against the boundary.

Then she took to chewing the compost bins and tipping them over, which isn't an easy thing to do. But she's been determined to get those critters. She jams her head into the rotting compost hoping to find one. I'm a bit torn about how to handle this.... on one hand I'm delighted that she enjoys hunting. But on the other hand I don't like our expensive bins being destroyed and it is frustrating to have to tidy up the mess.

Naturally I've tried to trap the rats. I caught one in a store-bought trap, but it didn't look like the ones I'd been seeing. I set the trap under a tunnel made from timber to stop the dog and birds from being caught. It would sit there for days without catching anything. It seems like I'm dealing with some fairly clever animals and that they might sense what the trap is for despite the tempting smell of cheese. In fact, I now can see the origin of the saying: "as cunning as a sh!thouse rat".

RatTrap10Nov2011.jpg


I set up a figure four deadfall and weighted it with a heavy hammer and some lead ingots, but I was a bit upset to catch a hedgehog instead of my intended quarry. Hedgehogs are classed as pests here, but I quite like them.

So what I need to try next is your Tilong trap. I just need to find a bit of bamboo or plastic pipe which is the right size.
 
Too bad snares and traps are so indiscriminate. Unfortunately i havent found out, how to target a specific species yet, and i take no pleasure in killing animals, i wont use for anything.

Nevertheless, there is some real good information in this thread :thumbup:
 
Too bad snares and traps are so indiscriminate. Unfortunately i haven't found out, how to target a specific species yet, and i take no pleasure in killing animals, i wont use for anything.

In a bad situation I would eat anything, which sounds overly macho but I really feel that way. Well likely humans are off the menu and I don't want to go there. You bring up legitimate practical and ethical issues. Should I be offing anything that moves while ''practicing'' ? You made me think bud, which can be a rare and painful experience.:D What I've concluded is that while generalized trap knowledge may well be useful, but as you said, specific target animals make more sense. Due to hibernation etc. many critters aren't running around in the snow here. I should focus on the most numerous animals available in a region and season. Deer foot snares etc. would be useful knowledge, but legally\ethically a no, no around here.
 
I, too, take no pleasure in killing animals. In fact I don't like to cut a live twig from a tree or to squash an insect unless there is a very good reason for it. But, like my ancestors since the dawn of time, I eat meat to keep me alive. And I generally enjoy eating it.

Traps and snares are a very effective way of obtaining meat. And while the 'killing' part of trapping or hunting isn't fun, there is immense satisfaction in learning and mastering the craft. While it is important to understand the mechanics of trapping, and to be proficient at making traps, it is probably more important to understand the animals and environment where the trapping is done.

I think that it is useful, if not very important, that outdoor skills and knowledge are kept alive in our culture. Even if we never use them in our lifetime, they help us understand where we've come from and maybe help to keep our outlook down-to-earth in a Starbucks and cyber world. How to make this knowledge available in a sensible manner is a bit of an issue for me. I guess forums like this are one of the best places to store it. If it is more readily available I fear that some thoughtless individuals may do things like set some traps in a fit of enthusiasm, then simply abandon them. Or worse still, some people might even deliberately set traps just to show local animals who is boss.

Anyway, it is good that we have this forum. Seasons Greetings from the South Pacific.... Coote.
 
wow, thanks for the excellent replies and especially to md. that is probably the most helpful and comperhensive post on the matter that i have ever read. i hear lots of folks talk about including snares in a kit or knowing some traps but rarely have i seen it demonstrated. thanks guys.
josh
 
Traps and snares are indiscriminate only when they are set indiscriminately. The very definition of indiscriminate "not marked by discrimination or careful distinction, haphazard, random, unrestrained, jumbled, confused.... shows that you have no knowledge or experience on the subject but what do I know, I step on bugs for fun.

Yes, animals that you do not intend to catch can at times be caught but not often enough to fret over. If you are catching lots of stuff you are not trying to, you are doing it wrong. Certain species are targeted by the location of the set, size of the snare loops, size of the traps, pan tension, bait and lure use, etc...knowing what is around and what attracts certain animals lets you target one group and helps to exclude others.

People that have never trapped often seem to have the idea of just throwing out a bunch of equipment and then "lets go see what stumbled into the traps." There is more to it than that.

You do not see too many people posting up photos of stuff they have caught in deadfalls because they are not legal sets in any State I know of. If they are allowed in some States, that is good to know, please someone let me know where.
 
grafton- I'm not aware of any state that specifically list deadfalls as legal devices. That does not mean they are always illegal devices either. There are two ways that trapping laws can be laid out by the state's DNR. The first is to state what items are legal. No state that lists legal devices will allow deadfalls. The second way the regulations can be set up is to list illegal devices. Many states that list illegal devices skip over deadfalls. Thats not because that intent to allow them but instead because they just don't consider them when writing the regs. In those states deadfalls and other primitive traps may be legal IF there are no other regs that would relate to trapping that disallow the use of non listed devices. Many states also have different regs for state owned land verses private land. These regs usually relate to the location of snares and water set traps but they can also list legal devices if the state chooses to disallow trapping of certain species on state land that are not protected. Local populations can be treated differently from one county to another. Because of this, there is often a discrepancy in the regs that misses things like deadfalls on non-state-owned land if it is also a state that lists illegal devices since they often "forget" about primitive traps. It is always best to make sure you don't do anything illegal but it is also a good idea to look at your states laws from the COMAR regs instead of an abridged rulebook. You may be surprised how many things are legal simply because they are omitted in the regs.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. It was actually Ron's survival basics #2 and his demo of the figure 4 deadfall that got me thinking. He did a great job showing how to make one. I'm going to have to plan a couple of days in which to try some.
josh
One of if not THE best tutorials on the figure 4. I watched the video once and then a month later was able to carve one on the first go.
 
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