Any tips I need to know before sending wood to K&G?

TLR

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So I have mixed box of wood that I want to send off to K&G but it's the first time for me sending in wood for stabilization.

A bunch of kiln dried Wenge that should be good to go. Most of it is around 2x2. I cut almost all of it down to 5.5" long. I left a couple of blocks at 11." Thoughts on if I should cut those down?

I also have a 1" walnut board that I ripped into scale size pieces. I know everybody says to leave stuff oversize but it's already 1" thick. Any thoughts on warpage on these? I know it's a risk I just don't know how prevalent a risk. Is it even worth sending out? It isn't premium wood but it is decent stuff I can use if it doesn't come back unusable.

The rest is an assortment of koa, maple, and fruitwood. which I think should be good to go.
Any things you've learned that I should know beyond what K&G has on their website?

Thanks in advance.
 
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That matches what I usually do. Mixed sizes is OK, and 1" thick is fine also. My main thought is don't send mediocre wood. Early on I paid for stabilization on some stuff I won't ever use, just because I was sending a box and wanted to fill it up.
 
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If you are getting anything dyed, number each block, and send a spreadsheet with the blocks identifying what number gets what color.
 
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Depending on how much of the 1" walnut you have, it may be worthwhile to send them only one or two pieces to see if, or how much warping happens. And don't forget, a set of scales is significantly less than 1" thick, so even if you have to grind away some warpage, you'll still probably have enough material for scales.
 
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That matches what I usually do. Mixed sizes is OK, and 1" thick is fine also. My main thought is don't send mediocre wood. Early on I paid for stabilization on some stuff I won't ever use, just because I was sending a box and wanted to fill it up.
Yes to this. Send your good stuff and don't waste $/time on the mediocre.

Those 1" scales should be fine even if they do warp a bit. I wouldn't worry about how many you send.

Make sure they are dry...I sent a couple pieces that were too wet and they cracked.
 
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I try to let the blocks dry for a month or more after cutting from larger blocks/boards. This allows time for internal drying stresses to release.

I was cutting up a big slab of curly maple last Sunday. It had been drying for well over a year since I got it. The pieces being cut off were 1.5X2X24". One stick bowed about 1" when cut off. Since I cut it into 5" pieces, the bow is insignificant, but letting it sit for a while will be wise.
 
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I try to let the blocks dry for a month or more after cutting from larger blocks/boards. This allows time for internal drying stresses to release.

I was cutting up a big slab of curly maple last Sunday. It had been drying for well over a year since I got it. The pieces being cut off were 1.5X2X24". One stick bowed about 1" when cut off. Since I cut it into 5" pieces, the bow is insignificant, but letting it sit for a while will be wise.
Stacy,
Are you sending them to k&g 24" long? I'm always in a bit of a quandry about how long to make the blocks. 5" can be a bit tight for some knives and too long on others. Whereas I wonder if I would have more flexibility and less waste if I did longer blocks....like 24"
 
I try to let the blocks dry for a month or more after cutting from larger blocks/boards. This allows time for internal drying stresses to release.

I was cutting up a big slab of curly maple last Sunday. It had been drying for well over a year since I got it. The pieces being cut off were 1.5X2X24". One stick bowed about 1" when cut off. Since I cut it into 5" pieces, the bow is insignificant, but letting it sit for a while will be wise.

Would you be concerned with those internal stresses from kiln dried pieces?

Thanks
 
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